Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hy people, now I’ve had an august my V70 2.4T Bj. 11/99 with 135000km at first he needed so 12 -12.5l on 100km then he got an oil change with 0/40er and a ceramic accessory when he then got a sports air filter insert (K&N) he suddenly needed more instead of less…?! was with the past cars mostly so that they needed a tiny piece less, whistle on the performance so, since the 0/40er oil was too thin he got a 10/40er as it is in the direction, a fine then he needed again more now I new candles (original) pure, and you will not believe it by now I am at 14,5-15 l mixed traffic, and tret him as well as not at all. if I think I had a 300E mercedes with made Carlsson machine, therefore mer cylinder and more PS and so look 13 years older than the V70 and that needed in the city 10liter and on the train is no longer enough for you?

Hello together. Was today at the TÜV and almost got through ;-). The following defects: 1x carrying joint front right and dome bearing front left. I should also clean the throttle flap part, so that it can be properly regulated again! Now my problem: Which cathedral bearing is the right one? In the car bill stands for 3: 00000 (=reimport!). At the dealer can now no one tell me which I need, since there are 2 different ones. Can anyone help? “Volvo 850 T5 Kombi (LW), Built 06/1995.” Please fast, so I can order. And thank you in advance! Greeting, Tom!

Moin you moose drivers! Am the Chrigu from Switzerland. Same screwdriver, but so far only on my NISSAN Patrols. I often travel in the desert Sahara. Also in the solo course, far away from civilization. If you are interested, I can cross-link the travel reports. If ss is allowed, there is another forum (Offroad-Forum.de) gladly asks questions if you are interested. I have a C70 T5 Coupe added. Favourably and for that with gear damage. Is my everyday mobile. Storage of the 2-4 gears are probably. Will the days take out the engine with the moose. With all the gears (1208940) Then be sure to have one and the other question. The easiest would be to change the gears. Revising as a self-screwer is then a bit more difficult. All gears go well. Only the grinding noise. 5th gear is quiet. Special tool? Of course I then change the control belt and probably the clutch.

HALLO YOU THROUGH IT!! WITH MY LATEIN AT THE END. MY VOLVO AFFECTS 23 KM DANGERS, THE MOTOR STILL STAND FOR CA.15 MIN. THERE’S ANOTHER AFTER THE HOUSE!!!! ONLY 10 KM.DAN AFTER THE STILL STAND.AFTER THE ADAC BEFORE THE WORTH ONLY A PAAR SECOND. THE LEATHER HOSE. THE LEATHER HOSE. THE MOTOR FAST ONLY A PAAR SECTOR AND ONLY AFTER BATTERING, THE BATHROOM FOR A PAAR SECTOR IS ONLY AFTER THE WORDS. THE LEATHER HOSE. THE MOTOR BEFORT ONLY A PAAR SECTOR AND ONLY AFTER THE LONG SECTOR. – 48 ST. RELAIS IS OK. BUT THE BENCIVUM?

Moin together! Are there also tyres with the speed index ‘W’ (up to 270 Km/H) registered with you in the papers ? Does this also mean that the same tyres with ‘V’ marking are much cheaper and still have to do it ? No buck/knete, which can be transferred if necessary ? Don’t have to be meh under certain conditions ! I accidentally got this out, 3 TÜV ministers asked here in the surrounding area and everyone in the choir ‘gone off’ – agrees like this ! With a SCAN of a paper of the TÜV Nord. Is not tingling in the resolution, but MT unfortunately does not allow the load of thicker brocks here … Carefully read through and for their own box sometimes count. . My 855 AWD may have ‘nun’ also V tyres on it. TERWI

Hello dear Volvo drivers, I have got a beautiful back seat from a Volvo 850. However, this should not be installed in a Volvo anymore but in my VW bus. I am unfortunately not conclusive where and how it was originally fixed in the Volvo. I would like to inform myself, so that appropriate safety of my passengers is ensured, before that, before again with you. For the bench should be welded a corresponding frame, which is then screwed firmly with body and seat. Does anyone even have pictures of a Volvo with extended back seat or someone a page in this regard from a repair manual at hand? Thank you already

Hello, since May 2007 he has been driving an elk 10/1995 combi. 2.5 liter machine with 106 KW 144 Ps with air conditioning. Since yesterday strong cooling water leaks out, so must constantly refill. I just found out in the workshop that in front of the actual cooler, the climate cooler is sitting. I have discovered in principle already where the water came out, say it licks under the car more to the right side and at the front of the grill or it runs out at the front of the ventilation slots. So the water runs through the climate cooler. Was now quite helpless and wanted only information exactly what is going on. After hearing the price, it became quite bad for me. Should 400 euros pay for the repair and coolers. I have a good acquaintance who also screws on oldtimers and Us Cars. He would install me the cooler and I would try to get the cooler in the shopping. What do we have to consider, there is a drawing or instruction after which one can work??? Can someone help me? Everything we need to know and absolutely should pay attention, very nice Grneck.

Moin Herd! So… yesterday evening still gumbled until late… Does a new rear flap damper come in. I found ridicule cheap, shouldn’t I because they are k**ke… Here again zigzack74 perfoooorrmnz, or so… then I found a few Monroe, for an absolutely awesome course. (Flo please still!) A few hours later I had to deal with pulling force and stroke and thrust force and length over everything at once?!!! WTF is that?! Hub: 75 mm Spreading force: 1500 N Length over everything: 275 mm is that good? or rather, Hub: 75 mm Spreading force: 1600 N Length over everything: 275 mm Case diameter: 28 mm WTF is that 1500 or 1600 N ?? Thank you! Greeting Joe

Hello, I was expecting… 2.0 petrol I start, starter also goes crazy, motor runs about 2-3sec. and boom isser out again. no chance to start the part. I then gave up to not empty the battery. at minus 10 it was still quite cumbersome and tired. (Has always left out all the consumers when driving to give the battery a chance to charge) …hasn’t helped anything… could that be the battery? although it’s not quite dead yet?

Moin, need urgent help from you: Volvo V70 I, Bj 99, 140 hp, Benz., circuit; = battery empty, switcher of the remote control no longer reacts, via the key function in the driver’s door it can not be opened anymore, do not come into my car = have only a manual lock at the driver’s door, keys can not be turned – deadlock? Need urgent help!!!!!!!!!!!!1