Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello together, again the topic door catcher !!! Have already made me smart in the forum or tried. My question now: Is the holder for the catcher belt now covered again from the outside (where the crack is ) or will a new holder plate (if it is in the spare part) be welded again from the outside??? If there is a holder plate for this, one of you can give me the ET number. Thank you for your help in advance. Photomobile

Yesterday I acquired a V70 from 98 with 171000 km for 1700 euro. He still has Tüv until 06/14 and has a standard equipment like EFH vo and hi, climate, AHK. New track rod heads and battery. Small blessurs are also available. Rear flap dampers are weak, small scratches are present on the bumpers. My question here is about the timing belt. As an engine is a 144 HP machine installed (10 or 20 valves???, no idea). According to the service booklet the ZR was changed at 106000 in 2006. When is this again. In Sufu I found a lot of contradictions, however. If this would be due, how high is the effort. If you need special tools. I have been a car driver myself, so there is some expertise available. Come from the Opel corner myself, and I wanted to sell the elk again. But I’m so excited to sell the 2006 Vectra and the V70 further.

Moin, have found that both mirror heaters are without function in my 850er Kombi. Electricity does not arrive there either. ( I tested ) The switch is for mirror and rear window heating. Rear window is OK. Backup OK. Now I guess it’s on the switch. Contacts in the switch from 1 – 6 . Which of these contacts should I bridge on an experimental basis to determine if the switch is defective ?

Moin. With my moose I have to have the airbag off the steering wheel, because I can only press the horn by strong pressure on the lower left corner of the airbag / horn button. I had first thought that the horns themselves or the relay are defective, but it is definitely due to the Kiontaktierung in the steering wheel. Please tell me someone how to get the airbag down there. Greeting Carsten

Hello together! As with myself2 times, my idle speed spins with N or P! Only after the whole standing time and after I (yes was wrong) deleted the control unit in a brutal way and after that only on the gentle tour… At first was that much too high! First the stand speed was so, at approx. 1300 – 1500 rpm. After longer rides also a little more. Partially until shortly before 2000. That was actually also a few days later history again… Had this with Michael by PN already examined and doctored… Now it is exactly the other way around! Michael meant e.g. in the learning phase this can be normal, because everything takes place. Learning phase already after 50-60km. By the way, no mistakes were any more. At least none of those with motor electronics have to do with it! But now almost 1500km drive again and nu eats just the other way around… Rather too little, between 400 and 500 tours, when I am at a red traffic light or in the stop&Go nich on N or P sometimes don’t bother the Krieg? While I have to drive my home time.

Day together, because it doesn’t fit directly into the last topic comes here something new. I used the search, but I can’t find the answer to my question. I installed the HJS cold-running controller today, of course before at the TÜV for the exhaust gas measurement (by the way perfect values, Lambda 1,003, CO 0.06% and HC only 3 ppm). Then I installed the air filter box on the second one, because I wanted to change the filter, accidentally forgot to plug the plug from the air mass meter again and started the engine. So I drove home, about 5km. I noticed that after decoupling the empty-running number is very low short, then slowly to go back to the normal ~800min^-1. Can this have to do with the forgotten plug? If I have now saved a fault code or does it go away by itself? With other manufacturers, the errors “delete” partly by themselves if they don’t occur again. And, the forgotten this plug triggers the mentioned error picture or is on the cold-running controller.

My Volvo 850 GLS 20V went out suddenly during the ride. No more gasoline, no more sparks. The pump relay is no longer controlled. On the 15 there are 12V, the pump runs when bridged. So the 31 and 31b are gone. I think the mass is missing from the ignition coil. The fault memory did not show any results on the 6. Has one of you ever had this shit?

Good evening, I have the following problem: With my Volvo 855 the ABS lamp is very often lit. If I brake – so there is nothing of ABS to feel – so not in operation. But it also happens that the lamp is off. Then I have a jerk in the same when (something stronger) braking. Can someone help me? Thank you.

Moin, while currently driving a long-term runner from Japan, I would have liked to have something bigger over a short or long period. Since I can’t afford a big jump even in financial terms (housebuilding etc.) it should be a reliable, economical diesel. I have to say that I mainly drive city/locality and country road, very little AB c.a. 12000km/year, so hardly any trips over 130km/h Among my favorites are the BMW 520d Touring od. Limo (e39) of the Volvo 840, V70 possibly also the S60-80, all so from BJ 2002/3 and neatly KM on the clock. There should be no barrels without soil and no permanent construction site, because I only have a very limited budget but an old master who can fix it to me one or the other. Japanese fall flat as most from 150000km with gear bearing problems occur (from Honda to Toyota) What would you recommend me?

Good morning together…. My trunk won’t open anymore. ZV seems to work, but the lid can’t open anymore.. Can’t open when I try it right at the back of the trunk lock. Lid just stays too… Someone’s an idea? Pretty stupid when the lid doesn’t open anymore… Best regards Bird