Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

moin i did a few weeks ago my elch times thoroughly polished, and after that his paint looked like new, also really nice even red, and nciht as faded as before. and I am surprised, they pictures in the adjacent sound actually only emerged so spontaneously, but I think the result you can still see now. but see for yourself…

Hello – into the scene ! Does anyone know advice ??? Fage / facts: When my 850er, 2.5 L is reached the operating temperature – and I turn off the engine, I sometimes have to wait 3-5 minutes – until it starts again … Starter turns quite normal. In my opinion then either the ignition spark or fuel is missing … (Symtom similar to the defective immobilizer) I have already renewed the petrol pump relay. Have always thought of the engine in the warm state (in stupid places or situations) – in order to then possibly not to hinder the subsequent traffic … But this phenomenon is independent of the outside temperatures … If it were the engine temp sensor, it would start worse, but it would start… The engine now has 382,000 KM (!) on it – and otherwise runs great ! WHAT CAN BE ??? I am grateful for every tip ! Thanks & Greeting Mr. Lollypop

After a freeway ride I opened the hood of my Volvo to see if everything fits (volvo v70 1 TDI). Unfortunately I had to find out that the diesel injection pump runs out. I don’t have a photo on top of the injection pump but there is a rectangular lid on it which is fixed with 4 torx screws. Exactly at the intersection where the lid with the pump closes I lose fuel. I hope that this is only a sealing ring. Should that be something grosser I throw the car into the garbage. I can’t even buy something neat to eat anymore because my elk devours everything from my finances, even money that I don’t have (live the credit card) After the freeway ride everything was pretty messed up below with diesel. I still have to take a picture, but maybe someone already had a similar problem?! Please help me, I slowly tear the patience(finance) thread.

Hello short and flush. I need your help. Engine is running. Temperature is rising. Fan is not running. When I briefly lock the fan it is running. Temperature is sinking. Everything Ok. Heating works perfectly. Thermostat is working. Themperature sensor at the thermostat works perfectly. I tested it. Backup Ok. Fan Relays replaced. Fan is still not working. There is no current. I measured. I did not find another thermoswitch. On the cooler is no. Only on the thermostat housing. It is a 850 Sweden bomber running with petrol and LPG 5 cylinders. Eventl. ECU??? Thank you in advance. PS: Head seal is all to info.

would be laughed if we were not better together than bosch and co. since I can’t answer that you give off your volvo and we don’t want to spam the other thread unnecessarily, I’m going to start a new way by opening a thread for you so, err modem, then tell you a little more about your problem or what was done by the specialists. can’t be that you need every few weeks a new battery… let’s start, I quote from the wide internet to determine the causer: Here’s the explanation: Take mass pole from the battery and switch between battery terminal and Batt.Pol an amperemeter. Choose suitable measuring range (approx. 100mA), and wait about 15 minutes. Read the multimeter display and pull the fuses gradually. When the power is secured, the problem lies. Rest current should not exceed 50mA at your car in the normal case!

Moin, after I just replaced the complete exhaust system with my elk, it looks like the daempfers give up all around the mind … After a first careful search I stumbled over daempfer of the manufacturer KYB? Does anyone know the brand? Do they do what? Otherwise there is a cost-effective recommendation for a V70I without nivomat and big snaps??? Thank you and greetings!

Servus on all sides have already decided not to drive to PitStop to the Tüv (the majority advised off – thank you very much :-)) but to Tüv Hessen. 10 eur more expensive. so now I have the following lack: Rubber bearings of the front crossbars torn (crossbars damaged storage) simple question: where should I repair this? was already at Volvo: cost 200€ working time, 390€ parts so 590€ (gross) (have not calculated an axis measurement – how can it go without? ) other volvo workshop calculated 687€ gross with axis measurement – parts cost almost as much now the question: whether this can be done in a ”normal”’ workshop? the working time will be a lot cheaper. or? the parts would have to be more flexible, or? should one pay attention to crossbars on quality goods? which manufacturer should one take? what installed volvo? by which manufacturer, so what should I look for? if someone in the room would have been frank/main) would have been thankfully wrong.

Dear community, through a reckless road user who took me the lead, my 855 TDI is over with economic total damage. I would like to sell it, here a list of interesting features. Would I be happy if the faithful companion could still serve as a donor… – Damage: hit at the back left of Passat, hurled around and then slightly driven in front against stairs. Everything under 40 km/h, cooler defective, engine running. Car can be moved, runs left on crooked rim. – Engine 2.5l TDI, ATM Volvo 140tkm, timing belt new (three weeks ago), ESP approx. 50tkm – automatic – partial leather – color green – BJ 12/96 – total running power 260 tkm – climate automation – travel calculator – 5 aluminium rims + winter tires – seat heater – window lifter If you ask questions, the car is currently in Hanover warsily soon in Hamburg and can be visited the days. Early bird catches the worm 😉 Greetings ex – volvo855tdi

Have my V70 since October last year and don’t drive a motorway therefore I noticed it only now ( you already know spring and so, already time to end ) that it suddenly falls into a hole when accelerating under full load at 3000 rpm, as if the turbo stop delivering pressure. Up to 3000 the Luzi goes off and it pushes through really nicely, then is abruptly end. Is this normal ? or should the up to the top equally pull through ?! I suspect as layman the LMM. Engine light does not work or anything. Oh yes another important question, when switching on the ignition. Should the engine light turn on briefly ? or remains the dark ? Because it never lights up with me. Hope you can help me.

Hello, have a 850er 12/96 with 2 liters 10 valve motor. Wanted to read out the fault memory and bought me the 2 repair manual books (Bd. 1290 German and English by Haynes ). It is spoken everywhere of a box next to the motor electronics, which is with LED flashes etc. and reset button that should make this possible. In my 850er there is not this box. There is only the engine control unit of Siemens in it. Nothing else. I found an OBD II plug in the passenger compartment, where such a usual way is, also icht. Can someone tell me how this is regulated with the model. The books are scrap if they do not even show something. grüße wolfi