Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Since there were at least a few moves in the direction and I personally want to have one in any case; it has to be done now The coolest I would find the lettering “Mädchenmortor” instead of the T5 or R… Can you do something? And who is doing it? Quote: Original written by funfataleC70 is the offer really? Markus – I am there with 2 pieces

Hello, guys. I got only one remote control to my car back then and it has now given up the mind. I’m now planning to upgrade an accessory FB. Of course, it’s easier if I know how the plug from the FB control unit would be occupied over the AI. Does anyone have the occupancy there?

Hello friends of the elk, I would have a question in the round: I bought myself in November as an absolute super bargain a 2002 C70 I convertible. Since then the car is deregistered and covered with a cloth tarpaulin in the underground garage and waits for the spring. Who has such a car, of course has an almost no more measurable owner pride and must show everyone the car with all the functions with roof. Since the car is not registered, however, finds that of course everything in the underground garage and that the car is moving appreciably. So about five weeks ago the following happened: I – proud like Oskar – wanted to show my prospective brother-in-law the car and went with him into the underground garage. Car open. Engine on. Reset to the other free parking lot. Engine off. Deck down. I turn the ignition key and nothing happens. No howling. Nothing. It sounded as if someone said, “So young, now enough. Go in and do your homework.” the car was perfect, when my approaching brother-in-law pushed me and the car back to the actual parking lot. A banger was still that the roof was allowed to operate again electrically, by fortunately it was allowed to close again. I claim that I simply tortured the battery too often when opening in the underground garage. But what should I say, in the car even the wash concrete sky of the underground garage is a dream. When I was last at the car, once again the radio remote control has Is the battery completely down or can it be recharged and saved by a battery charger? If you can still save the battery, which device can you recommend? What is this device from Bosch to hold the C7? Is there better? If the battery with Winetou rides along with the sun through the prairie, so is flat, which battery is recommended? Varta? Bosch? Then I would have some more general questions to ask you: What do I have to do, dam I bought the car in Munich in November and then brought it to the Rhineland with a transcription mark. Since then the car has been in the underground garage. Inspections, oil changes, gear oil changes, air conditioning fluid changes, etc. ? Sealing etc. No matter what! Everything that makes sense! Who thinks this is madness, short of the car: C70 I (which looks just better than the whole other successor stuff); 2.4 turbocharger; black; leather:beige; wood clothes; everything, except Navi (and who needs that too; I was rather open after the nose); garage car; cover, how new; mileage: 44,000 km (!!!!!) I thank you already now and many greetings Christian

I’m going to have a good time to talk to my friend. Since yesterday morning, I don’t just listen to the moose like a lawn mower, so he’s going to drive like that. He’s loud, he’s busy, he’s busy, and I don’t pull out. Then I’ve looked at the spark plugs as it is recommended here. So cover off and first shock, in the recesses there’s oil… Well, ZK plugs pulled out. On the left all iO, candle unscrewed -> Must certainly be new (totally oxidized) but still looks functional. At No. 2, then the in the middle: a) The candle plug doesn’t seem to pass the power to the candle, it looks hard after oxidations above the candle on the motor and the plug. (see pictures) b) The thing doesn’t want to go out… and by force I don’t want to go out there again, but it doesn’t want to change the workshop.

Hello, I bought a 850 TDI. My belly wanted to do that.. Now this one licks (many) oil. Today I had an engine wash done. After 4 kilometers I parked the vehicle – and it dripped on the stones. The oil tank was again watered. Just now a buddy, who is a truck mechanic, was there. He was able to turn the screws of the oil tank by hand. This he first tightened. However, he could not reach three. I now had great hope that this was the oil problem. But it was not. I wiped everything away. After a short run in the stand crawled over the oil tank new oil. I put a picture on you, on this one you see the rind. The Volvo cost 1000 €. From the overall condition I would give him a four. Furthermore, the drive shaft and the wheel bearing on the right again must be made known. That he squirrels I push on the torn turbo hose. New tires also needs to be in front. Does a repair cost? Probably the tooth strap down and there would make the little bit of it.

Moin, also a blind fox like me, is at some point pointed out that the rear lights don’t quite correspond to the ideas of law and order. What I didn’t notice at first, but thanks to the high-precision image analysis capabilities of block section (at least on CSI:Miami level!) turned out: The lower bright glasses were lashed red and then – on request by the previous owner – painted with diving varnish. Thus it was possible to paint horizontal stripes over these white glasses. You have to imagine this now like a zebra strip: 0.5mm painted stripes, 0.5mm unpainted stripes and then again a painted strip, then again… etc. (looks almost like cut-out foil in the ventilation grill pattern). So I am looking for ways to paint the lights again. Bonus points for the suggestions that don’t kill me right away if I miss the components or don’t put myself in a dangerous file at the BND because a bomb construction is suspected. And now if I have to be told that I have to buy new tail lights, I just have to look at them.

Moin, I’m rolling thoughts right now, maybe someone might be able to help me. Current status, I drive the 850 T5 and like to drive it. 😛 … Männe drives a Peugot 206 with a gas system, as a car for the ways to work etc. But he would also much rather drive the Volvo. Let’s say again and again, who is allowed to drive the Volvo. Now we were at the WE with Markus, thank you again at this place, our elk drives again really great 🙂 *huepjoy*… there came the conversation on whether we do not want to exchange the Peugot for a second 850. Männe immediately got the light in the eyes and grumbles now. Of course, this would be complete nonsense. We were originally extra drawn into the city so that we don’t need two cars and now I/we think if we put two so big cars in front of the door. In doing so we have enough other things that could carry a bit of money. Taxes and insurance would not be much more expensive, but we would have made a little bit of a difference.

Moin, I have two questions about my automatic system (AW50-42). My first question is about the right oil. The automatic system was flushed by the previous owner with Dexron III (a total of 10 liters). Now Vadis and Haynes say that Dexron IIE belongs in there. Basically, one often reads that D III has higher standards/specifications than D IIE, which is why it can be easily used. On the other hand, during my research in another forum, I came across that D III mine D IIE is supposed to be synthetic. That would be a not insignificant difference in quality in the engine oil sector. And finally, it is also reflected in the price: While DIII is comparatively cheap (10 liters is already available for 40 euros), you pay for D IIE more than 20 euros the litre. Which, of course, can also be due to lack of demand. Can anyone bring light into the dark about the right oil? And should the oil perhaps rather be like r are changed? I started with the research because my automatic sometimes switches a bit hard, but not necessarily during the ride, but much more so when you switch from P or D into the reverse gear. There is sometimes a very neat blow in the neck, which is why I am a little concerned about the automatic. However, these harder switching processes could possibly also have something to do with my second question: initially the rear lights flickered r at least for a very short time when you switched on in R. But there is nothing at all (there is no 12 V). Very probably the problem lies in the lock switch (PNP switch), at least this symptom is often called in conjunction with dirty / bent contacts in the lock switch. A cleaning is probably a miracle. Now I have 1-2 more symptoms and I wonder if they could also have to do with the lock switch? On the one hand, the Because the car doesn’t start in “N” anymore (that’s pretty stupid in the washing machine, because the engine has to stay on during tow operation, if I want to get out of the wash road somehow). On the other hand, the key can be pulled off in all the inserted driving steps. Normally this should only work in P. And finally, I could imagine that the somewhat jerky switching in R and from R to D could also have to do with the switch? Thank you very much!

hello, have the following problem with my automatic, 99er tdi 250000km. and the gearbox switches fine, soft, good and drives well. only the motor brake effect is zero – that wouldn’t be the problem at all, the problem is rather, if the car obviously tries to intervene in motor brake technology, it jerks quite violently. especially when driving downhill and inserted “L”, where the braking effect should be quite high, it jerks strongly, and the braking effect is zero. who can help ? gruß uwe

So dear ones, my moose has two years of future again…. At least he now has two years TÜV and I am a big appearance “poor”….. Well, were a little bit more than 1000€, but nobody needs to know that… A special thanks here also once again to a small Black Forest village, to FT Albert (for insanely fast parts deliver, cheap prices and nice phone calls) and (now you hit me : to the very competent ATU workshop with me around the corner… Long live the moose… VG Bird1512