Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

What’s more, I’m proud owner of a V70I 09.97 2.5 20V with LPG. Previously said: I didn’t have a real plan for gas systems … From the dealer (car dealer !) also no documents or detailed information about it. Somehow the gas system doesn’t run (more) !? On the overpass (120 KM) he has obviously only allowed fuel. The (tank) indicator at the switch flashes at ‘0’. I turn it off and on again, light up some LED’s from 0 over 1/2 to 1 and then go out in turn backwards again in turn and it flashes at 0. So does not seem to funk. Gas all ? At home stuffed – ‘have finished with pure-pumte 42 liters’. Is after all a 77-L tank (62 net) so was not empty for the pressure control ? Or ? What is that exactly for a plant ? In the letter it says: Drive gas STAKO 480-3805, Inh 77L can not be a MULTI-TEC.

Salü zusammen! In order to counteract the topic “”age-related-blazed rear lights”” I would be seriously interested in how much GELD everyone is willing to spend to buy NEW V70I rear lights. PLEASE not utopian ridicule prices, but realistic pricing ideas. I mean the original rear lights (not these clear glass in chrome or black). I would make a precise arrangement with all interested. The topic, how can I make my rear lights with any medium again like NEW, brings nothing in the long run anyway. Greeting to all….

I have a few questions. Has anyone ever changed the rubber bearings of the auxiliary frame? Where do you get them (except in the Swedish pharmacy) and what do they cost? All the bearings and rubbers of my chassis are more or less new and low in play. Think now even NOCHMAL to exchange the crossbars and replace them against which of MEYLE. -Does someone have a recommendation for me (where, what does it cost)? First of all, however, I will go to another plant for axle measurement. I can’t imagine that this is getting worse and the track should be right every time. At the moment, the zeroage of my steering wheel is shifted around about 5-10° to the right and the box changes to 150m on the AB the track. This is extremely annoying and so slowly my neck bursts. Best regards

Hello municipality, yesterday found that my left exterior mirror no longer heats. (Back window goes and right mirror also – so fuse i.e., some contact problem – can perhaps tell me where there are plugs everywhere in the cable line as possible error cause? Mist if anything is not possible…. Thank you very much for hints. Greetings Achso, as seen below, is nn C70 Cab from 2000 and with the SUFU I have already seen the contact behind the mirror glass, but there are certainly other plugs to the mirror….

And again a histrum from the department “We find gradually all possible Easter eggs”. I was surprised or annoyed for a while that in the petrol operation the idle speed is too high with warm(!) engine (1,200 to 1,300 rpm) that the gasoline consumption increases with short-range operation *extreme* and for that the idle speed is much too low in the gas operation (engine usually goes out). Moreover, the gas consumption is too high, and in the gas operation the expected power is not reached. However, the gas problems I had not connected with the petrol problems, because the controls of both systems are separated. Today I had the opportunity to come to a workshop, which is with the gas system model installed with me (Zavoli RE.GA.L, Venturi) know. The guys have checked the system from the front to the back and then opened to me immediately that after their opinion the Lambdasonde is defective. That is because the gas system is with. Thus the emptyness in the gas operation would not be too bad.

Moin Moin, after almost 10 years (without maintenance) and 180,000 km on gas, for the first time a major intervention on my gas system was carried out. The reason for this operation was a restless motor run in gas operation. In the cold condition the engine even went out. In switching operations this is no fun. After about 10-15 km the spook was then over and the engine ran without problems in gas operation. Due to this symptom I started from a temperature problem. I got a sealing set, cleaned the evaporator disassembled and reassembled. The membrane which separates the water-bearing part from the gas-bearing part was quite washed out and a replacement was bitterly necessary. The other membranes looked still very good. All in all, the story took about 3.5 hours, whereby only the replacement of the resins/cokings on all moving and fixed parts of the evaporator has taken about 2 hours. At the disintegration I even pushed on the gas filter which was never changed. If this time I know where to find it is. Otherwise, the evaporator is built up quite easily. My effort is again.

Moin dear Volvo community Last year in spring everything started. Also this year, like the last 20 years, I mounted my wheels myself. So car (V70 I EZ 8/2000) high, winter bike down, running surfaces controlled, Alufelge (original Volvo) on it, tightened and tightened with 130 NM. After about 50 – 100 km again controlled. So far, so good. About four weeks later, the wheel is loose at the front left. In the workshop. Once again, I took the wheel down again to look at the rim. Nothing found, wheel back on it, 130 NM. Wheel was fixed for the rest of the year. This spring was the same game. However, the front wheels from last year were now mounted to the rear (same side) . Wheel bolts remained at the place. After about 1000km now the wheel broke off at the rear left! So the summer wheels were fixed again and with the wheel to ATU. Wheel was checked, everything was fine. Afterwards, I got my torque wrenches, 130 NM were reached. Since all the faults were exhausted, and then, the gun was repeated.

hello, now I have to change the oil trap after I have already cleaned the flame screen and the throttle flap, the funny thing is that the flame screen was as dirty as it can always be seen on all the pictures, only now I have removed it after 2 weeks again to look again and once again everything was full with this yellow grit, but no idea what that could be. now I am ordering all the parts at skandix, now I just want to know if who can list which things I nncoh specifically need, possibly sealing rings that you have to change at any time or whatever would have to have expanded everything and still need a part that I don’t have. achja, and could that be the reason for my very high oil consumption? had filled up oil again 1 month ago to the upper limit on the rod, now I have driven about 1000 km and there is nothing more to see on the fill of the oil, so how many times I can see how much oil I can get in the oil.

Moin people and a happy new year, I made my `96er 855 10V fit over the winter and rolled a few days ago fault-free through the TÜV. However, I didn’t even have the 2km home with it anymore. First there was a slight jerk, followed by the polter bumping detonator and shortly afterwards he went out and was not able to get any more. I quickly got back to the workshop and left the car there over the weekend. According to the workshop were the candles and a torn cap of the culprits. Strange is, however, that I changed them exactly a year ago (original Volvo ZK and a Bosch distributor) and the car before the visit in the workshop was super started and very cleanly purred. The car was to the TÜV in the workshop and got there also a new VDD. How can the candles after >10tkm and 80% long distance be so ready that the car is not even to move? I would be very interested in your opinion on the topic.

As the title already says, my key is now totally grossly twisted, cut off. What alternative is there? New when ordering is clear, if someone has the costs in mind I would be grateful. But in the bay there are offers where hand transmitter and key is one, that is, these flipkeys incl. remote control. Who eats the blank, or can you change the thing somehow? Transponder has to be implanted with that is clear, but is it even possible?