Hello together…. We already had the Yatour topic several times. Actually most of the people here thought that when using a Yatour the use of the CD changer unfortunately falls away…. But look at this…http://www.amazon.de/…/ref=sr_1_6?… As I understand it, this device allows to switch between MP3 and CD changer…. Would really be a purchase criterion for me, because I don’t want to give up the changer…. Best regards Bird
Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum
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Airbag/SRS indicator light burns, error cannot be read
Hello. I have the following problem on my V70 year 09/98. In September 2012 I bought the V70, after a few weeks the SRS light started to burn permanently. On suspicion another used ECU was installed by the seller (also from a 98 – allegedly). After that I should drive to Volvo to delete the fault memory or to have it read out. The car master there did not come in with his reading device, however, each time the device hung up. Now to the actual n Problem: In July TÜV is available and I got the advice (from the then seller, who also performs all repairs for small money on my car) to take out the bulb. Does jmd. have an idea what causes the error message or what reason it might have, why the Volvo dealer can not read the error memory? despite a malfunction trigger the airbags in the event of an accident, or are they deactivated by the malfunction in the system? Where exactly is the control? A repair at Volvo is not possible due to the high costs. So, now I hope for adequate answers 🙂
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850 and V/S70 in old age
Hello together, one or the other may have already noticed it – I am currently “caste” a new second vehicle. I would like to hear your opinion about the 850s and the V/S70. What is the corrosion prevention of the models – are they still good even now in the older age? What about the technology, which engines are still basically faithful souls even at running speeds > 200,000 km and which motors should be avoided? Are there similar things to consider, for example, in the case of gears e.g. with the S80I T6? How durable are the four-wheel drives – or should you rather stay with the front-wheeler? LG Kester
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Moose crashed
Hello dear community, yesterday had a crash with my moose. Result after review reads: Blinker re&li headlights re&li lock carrier bumper should have one of you corresponding parts I would be happy about a message with price presentation in advance already thanks!!! MfG 3l3ktron
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volvo 850 vs. ford fiesta
what do you think? is a brand new fiesta safer than my elch? which is the elch cultiger/better the question should not be…..but you think through the whole new security technology (a lot of airbags and so….) is such a small car also safer?I drive a lot AB and land road…..the fiestas cost almost “nix” and can be financed quite easily and then rest also with the flatrate….
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Timing belts fall off, is there any guarantee?
Hello everyone, Today my V70 I TDI BJ:97 of the timing belts fell off (in the city area).Did it immediately notice at the traffic light.I stood there as a dull lumps or cracks to be heard.At first to a defective tire, because the steering was heavy.Circa 30 meters further was a gas station,there it is now.More I couldn’t do, it didn’t go faster.Unfortunately I don’t know if the engine is gone or not.The car now has 184 tkm..In Oct.2007 I had at ATU with 152 tkm.Zah In the meantime, there are approx.30 tkm.runder.Is there still a warranty ?Finally, ATU has to give a guarantee for the performance!? Maybe someone else has to stick to it, because in March 2010 I had brought the elk to the friendly Volvo dealer to have the dynamic pump adjustment and the actuator for the heating flaps checked or adjusted with the engine tester. Is there a connection or do I just imagine what a . he will proceed ?
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Help!!! 98’er Volvo V70, cylinder 3 does not run 🙁
Hi guys, I’m going to be short, it’s going to be long enough: Volvo V70, 1998, 2.4, 144 hp, switch, Km: 340,000 We’ve been driving this faithful sweetheart for about 5 years and for 240.000 km. I started to buy him some goodies a few weeks ago: Then it started: Cylinder No. 3 doesn’t run! : The engine is running. However, quite restless. If you pull off the spark plugs or injector plugs of the individual cylinders, he does what he should and goes to his knees. Achso, Funke is there and the injection nozzle pulled out also smells like crazy So, I am at the end with my Latin. Maybe someone has an idea here… Another thing… where does the injection nozzle actually get its signal? Can it be that this comes at the wrong time? Greeting from Karlsruhe Ulli PS: And if someone needs a 4-cylinder Volvo V70, he can also report
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Volvo 850 – 4 cylinder problem
Good evening, to introduce myself briefly since I am new here, I would like to say that I drive a Volvo 850 2.0l (126hp). After almost 300,000 km he starts to suffer a bit and so already many parts (coolers etc.) had to be renewed. Of course, it is all the more difficult to separate from his vehicle, you certainly know this here also as incarnate Volvo fans Currently however, I have the problem that the engine usually only runs on 4 cylinders. At the beginning only i m lower speed range and from 3,000 on the 5th came “to that”, but now he has almost completely said goodbye and he tortures himself on 4. I had made an appointment at A.T.U. now to get to the bottom of the problem, but they want to read out the error memory etc. with which I am already at least 25€, moreover I doubt that (what my guess is the reason) the distribution cap is workable as a source of error, or yet? What would you recommend to me? e already thought about expanding this myself and looking at me, but to the lower of the 3 screws is so damn hard to get there I apologize already for the long text but I am a bit thrown up without a car. With kind greetings S3ni7y
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Volvo 850 MJ96 car goes off and off for a short time
Hello together, I just bought a Volvo 850 GLE with 144hp. However, it is so when I turn the key around the car briefly and then straight out again. I guess it might be due to the immobilizer but not found anything concrete yet maybe someone can help me. Further down hangs a yellow plug under the steering column and I don’t know where this has to go. (see Appendix) Sincerely Marius
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ABS control unit itself repaired
After the ABS only sporadically, then more and more often and at the end almost no longer worked at all and he said the error message was “wheel sensor defective, proved again the value of our forum here. These are quite exactly the symptoms of the typical soldering problem in the ABS control unit. What he takes for a standard repair, we rather shun over it. There are companies that work up the control units, but there are then also 200 €. There are still these and this The details are well illustrated in the above instructions, so only a few additional comments from me: Since you only take off the electronic part, you can even drive without it, but should not, because the tacho does not work. The four screws are somewhat exotic, such a kind of inverse torx, i.e. cones instead of hole, but you can easily use a 4-mm plug. Since the whole thing hangs diagonally down, you don’t see anything, but it still works quite well. I got the ring clamps on the four screw sleeves down with a small screwdriver and at the end also put on it again. The opening of the seal is guaranteed not without damage to the housing. But that’s not so bad. I broke the outer collar of the lower part all around (it breaks almost by itself), then as much silicone as possible out of the body. The circuit board sits close to the edge. If you have destroyed enough silicone, you can get the lid down well. On the circuit board there is a transparent cover, which can be pulled off visibly. The best way to remove the areas to be soldered completely, it is no longer airtight at the end of the day. I soldered all the contacts on both sides of the circuit board. cker, that works with a normal (not very small) electronic soldering iron, some colophonium and additional soldering quite well, if necessary you have to stay on it until everything is properly heated and the solder flows properly. I sealed the whole thing again with a Uhu polymer sealant, silicone goes too, but I didn’t want to start a complete cartridge for the few grams. Conclusion: Almost two hours of work and a few cents for the sealing material, and the ABS goes again. that makes more often, certainly does not take more than an hour. So companies like this have a very interesting margin … well, market economy just, besides, one has to give as a commercial provider warranty, insofar as I am far from criticizing.