Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello forum! My ABS control unit is defective and, as I can see from the outside, has been repaired (case is pretty messed up). Unfortunately, the lower screw was so screwed up that I gave up the control unit after an hour. There are probably only two ways to get there: 1. To completely destroy the control unit, buy again for a lot of money and have the risk to destroy even more. 2. To expand the hydraulic unit with control unit The advantage: maybe the control unit can be saved and money saved. However, I have not yet found any useful information for venting the hydraulics and braking system after installation. I have already vented many brakes and otherwise also abundant, screwdriver experience, so that there is no lack of craftsmanship and suitable tools. Only with ABS I do not have the experience, whether it is self-exposed, white l it is very close to the brake fluid tank, or whether it is aired when the brakes are ventilated. I would be really grateful for relevant information.

Hello people would be nice if you could give me tips I drive a Volvo 850 from 1995 144hp automatic transmission and have the following problem. After about 20-30 min drive the Volvo has at once when traffic jams/starts/stops strong jerking without the engine running out and he doesn’t want to start up properly. After 1-2 minutes the problem is gone and I can heat up to 190kmh. The problem only occurs when the car gets warm and has to drive constantly. I have myself naturally I already read in and what was done: Ignition distributor, fingers, coils, cables (which looked really good) exchanged. After that I drove again today and in the traffic jam there was this power hole again but the jerking was easier, after a few seconds I was able to give gas again. Orginal spark plugs are on their way to me and are changed next. Do you think I should change the throttle valve or look something and what?

Meal dear moose keepers, I noticed the days that my combo instrument or my complete lighting flickered lightly and irregularly. The flickering only occurs when driving. I, when I got the moose, renewed the controller of the LiMa and measured at that time about 13,2V. Unfortunately, I can hardly measure the tension during the ride to say that the tension varies during the ride. I still tap on LiMa, or there is something else. what this could cause ?Here is the flickering of the AI Mfg Gwynfor

Hello Elchgemeinde have just read again all posts on the sorry topic with the central references. But I do not come to a conclusive result for me in case. I bought my first elk a week ago, V70 2,5t blue with light leather 1st hand, super maintained..Bj.1998. Unfortunately, the importer of the car did not provide me with a remote control for the ZV and does not know if he has installed it at all. It is with my elk about an EU vehicle from Luxen burg… that must not be installed as a series??? My car, however, has a red light-emitting diode on the amature board that flashes consequently… Could it be an alarm alarm alarm or does it have something to do with the radio remote control??? I know that the emitter is either sitting in the glove compartment or above the speedometer unit Could someone describe where exactly this part is sitting and what it looks like??? Do I have to pay special attention to what is special for the Hansc huhfach I have already found an extension guide in the forum.. Many thanks in advance to all

Moin to the country, I have been the owner of my dream car for half a year: V70 I, EZ 2000, 2.5 Ltr. with 140hp, automatic The car is in an absolute optical top state inside (with the exception of the door panels) and outside, and with very good equipment. It is a former natural gas car, temporarily converted to car gas (Prins). Now to my problem. The car is moved very little and mostly on short distances; in the dark season almost always with light, seat heating, blow, heated rear window etc. Now it has happened several times that the battery was completely empty. I had it tested in 2 workshops, it is in very good condition. Therefore, it is probably not on the battery. I still have to point out that I am not a screwdriver and can hardly fix the problem myself. I would like to limit the problem however, the possible troubleshooting in the electronics could become very expensive. lfen? Is that quite normal that the battery often discharges completely due to low usage in the season? Or is that a mistake in the electronics or elsewhere? I thank you in advance for your help!

moin, on the air filter box lid of my 850 2.5 10V 1996 is probably a “low pressure (?) connection” broken off, see picture. A very thin, black “tube” hangs loosely around in the area…. 1) What is this hose for? 2) is there a replacement for the defective connection (on the side a “plug-on tube” broken off)? 3) can this connection be changed at all or do I need a new air filter cover?

Hello, my 55 AH battery had given up the spirit and therefore I walked to ATU. There they had no 55AH and explained that a 50AH (89.99) would be just as suitable and would be better suited even in short distance traffic. After I had installed it I noticed that the engine was just coming like this when starting and it felt a little too weak to start the engine safely and powerfully. Although the engine just starts up like this, you have the feeling that there is no longer enough Saf can the new battery be unsuitable or too weak, or is the error somewhere else (something is pulling current or possibly the new battery has to be recharged)? Thanks for the tips and advice in advance!

Hello everyone, my C70 Cabrio 2.0T (163 hp, year 2002) has been in hibernation since the beginning of October. Every couple of weeks I give him an exit to prevent damage to the stand. In November I removed the battery because I needed it for something else. The car was standing powerless for about 3 weeks. Then I put it back in place and wanted to turn around. The engine started normally, but after a couple of meters hardly took any gas. After a short time everything ran back. I wanted to move the Volvo again, the same picture, only a lot worse – I hardly came back. For short moments he ran back normally to take no gas after a few meters. Now the starter turns cheerfully, engine does not start at all. First I wanted to check the infamous petrol pump relay, but find it not. In the operating instructions it is not listed. Can someone tell me if this model has one at all, or where it can be found. Thanks in advance for the instructions. tworten, Ramón

Hello, to our V70 and C70 I would also like to have an S70 to complete the family. This one is offered on Mobile: https://m.mobile.de/…/381674358.html?… Does anyone know the vehicle? How is the price generally classified, fair or too expensive? Greetings and thanks for advice/opinions in advance!

Hello, I bought a Volvo 850 bj 1996 2.0 10v yesterday. The Volvo runs great at the cold start and drives without any problems, however, when it is warm it starts to jerk heavily under 2000 revolutions and goes out. After it has gone out he jumps after long organs briefly starts but then extremely restless and stutters until it goes out again. Yesterday I cleaned the throttle valve which was very dirty, but does not seem to be the origin of the problem. are two hoses leaking or not present (pictures in the appendix) could be the cause ? I am very grateful about tips and advice.