Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

We looked at a C 70 with manual seats today and we noticed the single negatives on the car, the bad access to the rear area. So that’s not possible at all, so as a snake man I am not born right now or would not like to expect any of my fellow drivers. Now I have read that the C70 Cabrios with electric seats such an easy entry, so folding seats with extended access that rush back into the starting position, ha If someone can tell me something about this, don’t find a suitable convertible to test near me. I’m grateful for any help, I’m looking for a convertible (there’s still a Saab 9-3 in question or an Audi A4) but I’d like c/0 to be alone because of the 5-ender

Nabend, With my 99’er V70 it does not run round. It consumes animally a lot of oil (about 5L in 3 weeks) and also on the 1st cylinder in the last 2 months 4 spark plugs dirty (black, spark no longer comes). Valve shaft seal is new, oil consumption still there. 10W40 instead of 0W30 pure (dünnes oil for possible leak search). No improvement. Since Friday it jerks neatly and seems to not ignite properly on the 1st cylinder. Coil was exchanged today and candle also, all unaltered Has anyone been able to gain experience in this area? Tap the injection nozzle -> Unround barrel, oil consumption, spark plug consumption Lg, Christian

Hello guys. I’m new here. I know this forum for a long time but the registration has only been done today. In my opinion, there are some competent people on the road here. I have a question for you. I have the possibility to buy a Volvo v70 t5 with 270 ps, for very little money… The car has 400,000 on it… My current v70 d5 already has 370,000 and runs like a new one. Does this reliability also apply to Volvo gasoline engines? Does the “old” v70 have any problems, things for which I should absolutely pay attention? Dream forever of nem 850 t5r. However mom not in my budget… That was just right for me… 🙂 who has experience with this model engine etc… Would I be very pleased about a few tips. LG Skk What

Meals all together; my 850 BJ.95 144ps drives me crazy. At Km stood 600,000 the old bag began to trembl like a chilly dog. Feels it comes from the rear axle, but that doesn’t mean anything. My lack is for 23 years the main professional Volvo mechanic for the models up to V70/2. I have already renewed and I mean new and not needed and the parts are either Ori parts or well-known zub and max 1000km old. Shock absorbers front and rear side handlebars front L enkung complete All 4 wheel bearings Brake Discs/pads/saddles/sleeps All engine bearings also the cushion axle shafts Time to try another automatic built-in, which is not new but ok All 4 springs rear axle bushings outside 4 summer tyres(hankook) new , rims without tires tested for unbalance/beat With 2 other set wheels exactly the same So until the inner rear axle bushings everything is renewed Up to 130 completely quiet, from 135 becomes crawly, at 140 the rear mirror is a shaking plate “At 145 you get the bit out of your face Ach and the vibration damper I also replaced with a new one. I really didn’t have any ideas anymore and well, slowly enough knatter sunk in the car….but I just love it. I bought it with 389,000 2018 and never had problems,only worn parts renewed like the previous owner too. Maybe who else has a idea, otherwise I don’t drive faster than 132…? L.g Olly

Hello dear elk stove, on the WE I wanted to clean my throttle flap and idle control. Since the removal was due to strange disposable clamps, for which I had no replacement there failed, I quickly cleaned the still installed throttle flap with LM throttle cleaner. That also worked quite well. Actually.. Unfortunately I had to find that my exhaust manifold has cracks, because all the black smoke when burning the coke deposits came directly under the heat protection bluff It seems to be tight. So not everything, but enough to get worry folds didn’t smell so good either. I ordered a new cracker including a flex tube, as well as attachments and seals from Polarparts, but at the price I gave up the search for a used cracker. I wanted to ask now if you think there are still important things to consider when changing the cracker. The accessibility to the cracker saw me from above. If you have unscrewed the KAT, you would have to be able to remove the cracker from the engine compartment? A pit for the work and experienced screwdrivers would be available. Do you have any other tips for me? Replacement bolts for the block if the screws are tearing off or similar.

Hy, have for years found the 16″ (302mm) brake at the VA and with ATE (for 3 years the one with the cut) actually a good brake. Now with a little performance increase, this is still ok for the normal traffic, but if you get out on the track, several times what comes out (because you can’t look or don’t want to guess anything) it is already brought to the border. What is the next bigger one, which also makes sense, and does not have an imbalance after 3x brake or vibrates? I know there’s an original 17″ version, but I don’t think it’s much bigger? Thanks in advance for your info! V70 / 99er / Mod.00 lg Jerry

Tomorrow together! Does any of you have experience with it? Track plates at the back of the 850s? If so, to what width is it possible to do it without a sledge or even pull the fenders? Because it looks so narrow at the back of the ass… Now I want to make 20 aluminium plates per side on it, that it is at least a bit wider in the track… And because my 854 from the back has the look of the T5-R (spoiler, lamps, groin, etc.) looks like this shit, if it is so narrow there, zumi Have you ever had any experience of yours? Would all the tools in my workshop have been used to bulge, to pull the wheelhouses… So that shouldn’t fail… Thank you! LG Joe

Moin, I noticed tonight that the lighting on my automatic selector lever doesn’t work anymore. Did any of you ever do that? I’ve googled around so far and the light is probably through. Robert DIY also has a video on YouTube but for the V70, in principle the center console from the C70 goes up to the rear seats. Other instructions in English describe that you have to unscrew at the storage/coin compartment. That doesn’t make Robert somehow in the V ideo hmm. Then I found this here but somehow I don’t understand it quite: OK for any future people that might have the same question. 04 does have a light in the shifter. Easy to do. Pull up back seat. Take 2 8mm bolts out. Open center console and lift removable cover inside. take 2 8 mm bolts out. Lift and pull back console a bit (shifter must be in 1 or 2 and E brake up). On drivers side you will see a black funnel shape black plastic. At end there is a light bulb socket. P ull down. I thought a bulb listed for the car at an auto parts place and found out it didn not fit. It was longer and when you remove the bulb from the bulb capsule its hard to move back. Dealer sold me one with the capsule for $12. The capsule and bulb come out as a unit. New one just snaps in. Oh yeah remove the coin tray. Careful plastic on sides is brittle and SHARP!!! OK in done. Good luck Would be cool if someone could grab something in my arms Oh yeah, which light bulb fits over there pt in, there are also different ones. Looks kind of special and not something you could buy from Conrad

Hello dear screwdrivers, I have tried a lot and searched a lot on the Internet, but as so often no one in the worldwide network has the same problem as me. That’s why I now come to my first forum post. Now to my problem: I have a Volvo 850 144hp from 1996. My cooling water temperature rises after I start the ignition directly to operating temperature. No matter if warm or after cold start. I have already changed the temerature encoder and the thermostat, but no change. Maybe someone has an idea what it could still be. Thank you already one time in advance Tino

Hello community, I’m on the road this weekend and I’ve come across this Volvo 850 (http://suchen.mobile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=210077797). Unfortunately, the driver’s door is a bit dented, but I don’t think it’s bad. What worries me much more is the fact that it rattles very loudly in idle. My question now is whether this is a big problem and is associated with many costs or whether the costs remain manageable. I didn’t really want to invest a lot of money. , since it should be my first car 😉 Look forward to your answers Mfg ProfSkyline