Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hi, everybody. I would be happy for your help again. I went on vacation today. After the first short coffee break, the engine was rumbling a bit at the first meters, but after that it was normal. Then it was over an alpine pass. At a construction site only one lane could be driven. At the start of the race the engine was rumbling at the red light and didn’t have the power to start. A two restarts went, but completely restless run and no power to start on the mountain. in half an hour, the engine started, but with a lot of gas it got better. He then escorted us up the mountain a few kilometers and then went back and we continued. At the next pass, this time in the middle of the construction site, the engine went downhill again. This time we just waited 15 minutes, tried again, gave a lot of gas and: continued. Two hours later we arrived in South Tyrol. The man from the breakdown service What do you think? Could it be the petrol pump? I haven’t changed it yet (more than 380 Tkm). Or can the relay 103 cause such symptoms? Or can it do something with the ignition? I would have had the spare gasoline pump with me. Whether it still works would be checked. I also have new relay in the car. What would you do? Thank you for all the hints already in advance! Bno supplement: 850 Kombi, 170PS, Automat, 1996

Does someone know the width of the trunk of the v60 and v70 so the width of the loading can and the narrowest place I have to transport solar panels flat and they are 113 cm wide

WHAT DIFFERENCES ARE THERE IS A DIFFERENT BETWEEN NORMALEM 140 PS 170 PS AND 226 PS EVERYwhere a table is known?

Hello Elchgemeinde, first of all a pleasant and stress-free start n the new week. I have already searched around a lot, but somehow did not find the right information and the whole tires / rim combinations kill you yes. Now just the question to you, who have dealt with it long ago. Which tires / rim combination with which ET can I drive on my moose which I also get without problems without bumbling through the TÜV. 7J rims with 16 possibly 17 inches. Distance discs would still be in the green area. But wanted to leave my thickness rather original, maybe just lay a little deeper because of the look. I have seen some rims, but then the ET is not right or the rim width (6.5 or 7 J) does not work and have actually all the years never dealt with my former oldtimer so. In addition, one usually does bodywork or brake conversion Volvo had beautiful lowbed rims like in the photo in the previous years, but they don’t fit with our thicknesses. Or the ones on my old old car, the red E28. Well, maybe you have information about which rim size with which ET and which additional work etc. I could choose without big modifications as new shoes for my thickness in the summer. My moose data are stored. You all have to have a lot of D ank in advance.

Moin, from time to time I look at the car exchanges like the prices are for volvo c70 and I have noticed that they have risen quite a bit in contrast where I bought my car about 4 years ago… could you call it a snap when I look at the prices today. does that have a special reason?! has the demand for such a car increased?

Hello dear Volvolaner, I am relatively new here and hope for tips from you. With my Volvo 850 2,0 20V BJ. 1994 italoimport petroler it clacks lately quite nasty under the bonnet. When I bought the Volvo there was the noise only until the engine was warm, meanwhile it is also clearly listening to warm engine…. ÖL change was carried out about 2 months ago with 10W40. Now I am unsure, since I have read here different things about this topic… from this G I made a short video and hope you can shove me in the right direction Video link: VID_20160218_170918.mp4 orhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDWT4rU24uM thank you!! thank you, Basti

Good evening in the round, I have a prize today and will ask a question for the first time. First of all the history: My ABS-people don’t go out. My Volvo-screw of my trust read out: “Connection to 3 wheel sensors interrupted” or something like that. I then covered myself with advice from him and now would like to be reluctant to throw parts wide, so I first exchanged 2 sensors and would like to read out again errors. But for that I don’t want to do every time in the round. The workshop. So I got an OBDII-to-USB-plug/adapter and wanted to read the bugs with freeware. I tried this with some unsuccessfully. In various posts is the talk of Brick Diag or Volvo FCR. My Volvo: 850 1996 2,5l 144 HP Now my question: Does anyone have experience with a free or cheap software to read the bugs? Thank you in advance.

Hello dear people, on my Volvo V70 built in 1998 I have the problem that the lights are really exceptionally bad (see attached picture 1). You can just look about 20 – 40 meters away and the light cone is extremely uneven. At dusk, for example, it makes no difference at all whether you have the light on or off (see attached picture 2). Even passengers ask me in part how I can see something like that when a car is driving with Xenon behind me, is t it for a short time a real relief, because you can look again reasonable That must have an end. I exchanged the incandescent lamps about two years ago for high quality. That brought minimal improvement. Could it be that my headlights are simply gone? the mirror surfaces in the headlight look a bit matt. My questions: Thank you!

Hello everyone.For the first time I would like to introduce myself.Rafael ,45 years old,Stuttgart.Since recently Volvo 850 20V Combi with LPG Bj.96, owner.Why just such a car?Because it is simply a horny car.Great, edged,black and gas system.I wanted to have one like this for a long time.I always looked for the big Swedes tanks when they drove past me.Now I got one.It is my first Volvo,and I would like to keep it for a long time.Unfortunately, the engine control light has approached. Exhaust gas system or injection system.Looked at the exhaust system today, and it seems to be tight. Contacted the owner,and he thinks that there might be too little gas in the tank, and that’s why the control light.I’ll let you read it out :-)).So.This is my first post in a forum.I hope I did everything right.In this sense I wish everyone a nice weekend,and I’ll let you hear from me again.See you then.Rafael :-))

Good day dear friends! I have a very annoying phenomenon with my Volvo. It is a 1998 Volvo V70 i with the 2.5 turbodiesel engine and (if it plays a role) full leather equipment. Problem: With certain temperatures the amature board starts to crack from the front from the middle (see red marking on the pictures). It is the typical noise that arises as soon as plastic rubs on something (it definitely does not come from the air conditioning or the fans, it is the plastic above). If I press the finger on the transition between the amature board itself and the plastic rail at the end of the disc, I can reproduce the cracking. It has to occur somewhere at the “transition” between the amature board and the plastic part directly in front of the disc. Interestingly, the sound disappears as soon as I press the upper amature board with my hand. I have tried the following (nothing has done anything): next ic h simply lubricate all the parts of this upper whole cover with silicone / grease, which have contact with any mounting fixtures and, if necessary, process everything with sillikon spray before I reinstall the upper cover. Maybe someone else has any further tips, or the problem already solved itself?