Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moinsen, my 850 T5 is starting to make me feel at ease when it’s cold and I start it, then it starts clean and goes straight back out. After that it gets really weird, because it spins like it has NULL compression until after a while the first “Poff Poff Poff” come out of the exhaust. Then it starts on 2, 3 or on good days 4 cylinders and shakes like stupid. If I wait a moment the 5th cylinder comes in. Gas is the first 5 minutes It’s not in it, it goes out dull. The curious thing is, as soon as it’s warm it runs perfectly. The idle is nailed like, it takes gas and drives in order. There are no clouds coming out of the exhaust, neither blue, black nor white. I am now something at the end of my Latin, since I have already tried a lot: – control times are set to 100% with gauges – petrol pump is replaced – petrol filter is new (MAN) – petrol pump relay is replaced – intake manifold seal is new (OE Volvo) – ignition finger and cap new (Bosch) – ignition coil and cable from mid-2014 (Bosch and OE Volvo) – Lambda probe from mid-2014 (Bosch) – LMM from mid-2014 (Bosch) – EVAP check valve from mid-2014 (OE Volvo) – oil trap including all hoses new (OE Volvo) – candles are new (OE Volvo Turbo) – LiMa from mid-2014 (OE Volvo) – petrol pressure regulator new (Bosch) All vacuum hoses replaced by Samco, only in case that is required The compression is on all cylinders in the was I have already removed the coolant temperature sensor in the hope that the wrong values will be delivered and the MSG will then get an average value, but no change has been made except for the expected continuous running of the fan. MSG has not filed any errors. So if one of you has a well-founded idea, a reasonable suspicion or the possibility to read live data in the Hamburg area and direct I’m very grateful to interpret ig for further suggestions or assistance!!! But boys and girls, don’t be wildly rumbled Many greetings Johnny

Hello to the Volvo forum, as I will soon retire and not drive much more, I would like to buy a “classic” Volvo (currently Volvo V70 III D5 GT). Engine: R5 10V, R5 20V or RV 20V T (140/144/170/193PS). With manual transmission. Is the question now one of the last 850s or prefer the V70 I? From today’s point of view the desired model is already at least 14 years old, therefore my question for better durability, maintenance costs (repair). Are there any technically remarkable differences, also in terms of exhaust gas behaviour? Rejoice me about your answers Beautiful greetings from the Ranger

So…I’ve been watching it for a long time now and I’m a bit annoyed by it…It’s already quite loud! The faster I drive, the faster the “yelling” , which I feel as logical (…it actually sounds like there’s a bird stuck in it…) And it seems to me somehow irregular…is hard to describe… I press the brake is the squeaking away. As soon as I turn slightly to the left, it’s also gone…Where should I look for the first time, or start? A woman also says it’s coming from the front right!

Hello together…. Was just at the TÜV and have clarified the tire question. In fact I can not drive this tire size (106kw!!). It is definitely not allowed with the papers, which can be found here and in the net. Would like to apologize here at T5-Power, you had definitely been right about my elch. I just had a single acceptance and can now legally drive this size. The examiner told me that it was possible to But other elks can look quite different again. He said that with the more motorized elks the size would be fine. He suspects that Volvo simply forgot that at the time for the 106kw. Anyway, I can now legally drive the size and do not need to buy new tires. costs about 140€, but still better than a set 205/50 R16 for about 400€. So let your elks check if you also drive this size.

Hello together! My good 850 doesn’t seem to be able to run well on all pushes. History: Since the winter was approaching, I decided to get the good Goodyear UG7+ (known from my experience in the tyre test). During the assembly I already noticed that two of the tyres had a slight high blow. -No matter, then they come to the rear axle. But the joy of the new snowbiters did not last long, because even though I also directly exchange the track rods n and the axle geometry had to be remeasured and adjusted in the course, my car moved to LINKS from now on! As I first had the suspicion that ATU had built up something there during the measurement. In the second measurement, which I looked directly at, it came out then that the front left measuring head of the other station was probably not quite fit anymore. -Light deviation. Newly adjusted (and this really aurat, one has to point out praisefully!), the master came therefore and did not turn a round. He came back for a long time and told us that unfortunately the car was still moving to the left. Now the two front tyres were changed and see here: Now the car suddenly pulled to the right. I thanked and drove home. In order to keep excluding a mistake, I changed the tyres accordingly again, so the HA to the VA. Again the car pulled violently to the left, in addition there was a noticeable imbalance, which I brought back to the height of the HA tires. yesterday I took the two front tyres against each other and now ride with them against their direction of running. -The result as with the ATU-master: The car now pulls to the right! And the effect strengthens when giving gas. After the chassis is now without lack, what measurement protocol and TÜV test have proven (I stood next to it every time and watched – there really everything ran thoroughly and clean off), I contacted the tyre dealer and he currently takes care of a R eclamation at Goodyear. Just ask the question in the room: Have you generally had similar experiences that the Volvo simply can’t handle certain tires? In my case it’s definitely the tires… Would I really be interested in. Greeting Kamilli

Hello everybody, I have a lot of oil loss over night. In the pictures I have marked out which area it soups out. Does anyone have a tip where this could come from? Is a Volvo v70 Bj 99 gasoline, 2.5l 144 ps Thanks already and greetings. Steffen

Hello, this morning my moose has distributed the good stuff on the road! So luckily only a part, there is a leak below the footroom passenger side. I still do not have the opportunity to look right under! Does someone have a photo of the area maturable? There must be the corner where the pipes go up towards the motor. It would be interesting for me to know on there Gum lines start the ev. simply died of age weakness or whether it is rather worse is it! If it’s rubber lantern what measure do they have? I have the 2 liters engine? Then I could replace it so that the rep. goes faster. For help I am grateful. Greeting and nice weekend Christian

Moin, I have quite a curious problem. And although the window lifter switch passenger only opens the window but no longer closes it. On the driver side however, I can open it and close it. But when the window opens, the lighting of the window lifter switch (passenger side) goes out. However, if I lower the window on the passenger side on the driver side and press switches on the passenger side also down, the window stops. Only w If I let go of the switch on the passenger side, the window goes further down. Does anyone have an idea what this could be the ECU maybe? I don’t think it’s a mass error but I can’t rule it out now 100%. I thank you already in advance for your assistance.

Hello in the round, I have the following problem with my petrol engine: it runs normally in idle mode. As soon as it is under train, it only takes on weak gas. WITHOUT rucksacks or detonators. Meanwhile, it hardly drives and almost goes out (except in P-position). Now it has been standing in the workshop for a month. The car master told me today that the moose in “S” mode is almost normal. I don’t see any more. Maybe an error in the automatic transmission. It does not light up a indicator light. it has been renewed in recent years: knock sensors have been changed last week cam-welve sensor has been changed Termostat has been changed spark plugs and cables have been changed Distribution box has been changed Petrol pump has been changed Do you have advice for me? Thank you in advance! Micha

(I ask so stupidly because I was already stranded with 2 cars (not Volvo, but similar old boxes) because of sudden and unexpected mechanical ignition switch total failure without notice, and from now on I went to nothing more, except short-circuit.) These following two V70 ignition locks work (still?) without any problems, nevertheless they are somehow “self-like”: Case 1: With a V70 (MJ 97) the rests are no longer noticeable at levels I and II, one can notice t when the steps are reached, but the key can also be rotated in any position “between the steps”. For example, when driving, you can turn the key steplessly mmwise back until the engine and headlight are still on, but the speedometer and km counter are already off, and the key remains in each position by itself (but is quite lightly completed) Case 2: The other V70 (mj 2000) does not have the effect, since the key jumps clearly from the steps as usual. But: This lock in the 2000s has a completely different “phenomenon”: Level I remains on when switching off until the key is turned to “zero” until the stop is completely turned to “zero” (deletion position). Shortly before zero, level I is still switched on, as if the key were in “I” rest. (As expected, everything should be off as soon as you turn back even a little bit away from the “I” rest …or?) If ma n does not pull off the key, it happens so easily that the level I remains unconsciously switched on, and the battery slowly drains. If the radio is running or the blower is manually turned on, then of course you immediately notice that the radio or blower continues to run after turning off the ignition. But if the radio has already been switched off manually and the blower slide is on “AUT”, then the only hidden “note” is the small LEDs on the Klim abedienpart, which are really easy to overlook, especially on a bright day. Are you aware of these two phenomena and even point to an early ignition switch failure? Or is there no reason to worry?Thanks for reviews!