Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hy, well, I’m not completely unnecessarily, but I’m grateful for every “sach & expert tip” right now, and just pretend to be completely stupid…. I have a V70 1 year 11/99 / Mod.00 2.4T 193PS 2WD Autom. Has BSR 3 inside. In addition, he got a replacement engine about 4 years ago, and 2 weeks before its exchange, a new Turbo and Lambdasonden ect. Everything went well until last October I hear at the TÜV, the car is top, only the exhaust values do not fit at all, everything deep in the red n = shock, which I was sure, that all fits, ran well, did no mucking and fuel consumption even less than with the original soft goods. Now the at the TÜV also had the additionally on ODB2 had and said, the Lambda probes work well, and show no error. Also I had there still no error from the MKL. I think before the engine swap, I had the old Lambda probes + old original KAT inside and when my wife drove with the car, almost every time d lit up the MKL, because the rear Lambdasonde (which drove too timidly and KAT already 280tkm on it) reported. Therefore the change from BSR Stage1 to 3, because there is the whole exhaust system together with KAT there ect. During the conversion the Lambdasonden took over and drove now 2.5 years like that. The at the TÜV said the KAT (400 Zeller) is through…. I talked to BSR, they send me a new one on Kulanz 26 months (thank you again) . This was now installed at a company (same time with decent motorsportsche) llen + the transitions that are never 100% close to a stainless steel, hidden . now absolutely dense ). Funny way I was still in the red area during the measurement, whether the original soft goods or the Stage3 had on it (with original soft goods the red area went down a bit, but also not much ). Now in the last weeks 3x the MKL light up (had I posted e here FK P1132 ). The master there looked and saw that it on the right side at the suction bridge did not light up . (Last week he got 5 new original candles + new Bosch ignition coils) Master calls me, says now it is a bit better, but still heavy in the red *kotz* He thinks the new KAT is to blame. I think the old KAT + the new KAT in the red, it can not be the KAT. The candles were white at the exchange (magic), but that means nothing, because a real candle picture you get actually only if you get the on the I think it’s very funny, that the heavy in the red area when measuring the exhaust gas, but the rear lambda probes didn’t report anything!?!? She already reported when my wife was driving….and now nothing (is already funny?). The master said the probes didn’t mean anything, he measured the resistance, everything was fine. I think also , that the fault codes to the Lambda probe (P1132) which I got 3x had to do with the false air intake at the intake bridge…, since now no Fehelr ect. anymore. So, red area in the exhaust gas measurement, means for me “too fat”. What is everything, with my motor B5244T responsible for the adjustment of the fuel quantity, i.e. which probes does he have ? Lambda probes, outside temp. feelers, and what I once heard years ago, that he also has an octane knife, depending on whether I refuel 95s or 98s, st He turns around (but I just heard it as I said). Throttle flap is good and OK, don’t twitch, not even anything. LMM I thought at the beginning, but he doesn’t run in any emergency pogram and also shows no mistake about it (though I took him out and cleaned him up. wasn’t dirty or anything). What else can there be that the one so in the red measuring range blows out ??? And at the same time “no” error message brings ??? I thought already I swap on suspected the first BOSCH Lambdasonde (rule probe), however, is no cheap attempt….and if the TÜV and the master in the workshop think the probes are ok, even such a thing !? Do you have an idea ? Thanks in advance!

Hello, I and the Volvo have landed here after all. Unfortunately, the little one always annoys me lately. w doesn’t know what he has. I always treated him well. Teenagers stop. 850er Kombi First registration 08/96. Currently 312000 counted kilometers. I bought him plenty of three years ago and bought him a Prins gas system. I already emptied him 50000 km from m cross. I solved the first failure already with your help. The odometer had no desire at almost 300000 more. I changed the little toothwheel. Runs. I didn’t record nearly 10000 km. I can’t. In the short answer thread I already described the ignition plate error. Here I am still at the spare parts procurement and consider whether a used ignition plate, 20years old, is the right choice. Probably not. My trunk roller is over. I can’t use the available repair kit. Ergo I also need replacement. Had found something already, but the call ie price of coarse 80€ for 21 years old replacement, seems too happy to me. i’m still looking around a bit. Currently the ZV doesn’t like to let me into the trunk anymore. i’m happy about a solution on your part. a combo without a trunk is as pointless as the BVB without a knock.

Moin! I have already used the search function and have already received a small impression, but I would still be happy about further experiences with the Heico / Sachs Performance suspension. Originally the suspension consists of tighter Sachs gas pressure dampers and Sachs 35mm lowering springs. According to some contributions there was the Heico suspension also with Eibach springs. This variant is uninteresting for me. I recently skipped the complete Heico Performance suspension This is why I am particularly interested in the Sachs springs. How are they in terms of comfort? Rather a little harder or a little softer than e.g. Eibach, H&R, etc.? Currently I drive Koni yellow with H&R springs, but this combination is too uncomfortable for me. Therefore I think about combining the Sachs springs with Bilstein B4. What about it? It is important for me to have maximum comfort with a discreet lowering. I don’t care about sportiness or even race track suitability. The series suspension is not an option for me and the advantages of a KW coilover suspension do not open up to me as a country road and city center driver. Does any of you currently still drive the Sachs springs?

Hello! I’ve already read a few threads about WT, as I always had the feeling in the first moments of heating the interior that it would smell like cooling water. I can’t really detect a water loss but it can be marginal. I’m not a frequent driver now. The carpet in the driver’s footroom is damp and greasy at one point. Since I always had to deal with the various other defects on my Volvo, I have this problem a little lagged. Now I have dismantled the cladding and folded the carpet back. It is a small running track to see which starts directly where the two water pipes lead into the WT. There is this black connection to the WT, which seems to be clamped. Since I have read several times of loose screws on the pipe connection clamps, I simply pulled the one half accessible Torx (T20) screw a bit. about 1 drop per 10 seconds. I then loosened the screw a bit again (original state) and it immediately stopped dripping again. Now I drove 30km from my hall home and looked again: it doesn’t drip. Question: Can you say exactly what will be defective now? O-ring at the flange pipe WT or rather WT itself over? Should I urgently clamp a longer journey (Berlin-Hannover) over Christmas or is this probably before r semi-wild? Is a scenario conceivable in which at one stroke a connection or the WT itself become extremely leaking and I stand on the highway because 7 liters of cooling water suddenly stand in the footroom? Or is that absolutely impossible? Greeting!

I drive VA/HA 225/40 18 8×18 ET45 rims on my C70 but the rims are still very deep inside when I look from the side on my fender that looks really stupid. I currently only have behind which 30s 15 per side but there is still 1 cm of air to the edge. I don’t want to fully excite it but it should have a healthy beautiful look. Who has experiences and recommendations and how to look t it with the registration at the TÜV? thank you.

When I was driving off I heard such a strange “knocking” at the HA, but I didn’t think anything about it… “Can I take a quick look at the lifting platform tomorrow in the screwdriver hall and look for it” In the next place, when braking into the place, the clacking is turned into a bell and then very quickly into a clear punching and then my brake was already flying without Sch#*ss – I collected the individual parts at the roadside and on the roadway again!! And if you don’t hear it or ignore it, they become stubborn. Markus P.S.: The parking brake had probably loosened and then flew around in the drum until they squeezed it. Anyway, that’s how it looks…

Hello Volvofans, I have been reading this forum for some time and have now signed up. Thank you for the many useful tips! Our Volvo V70 TDI (MJ97, D5252T MSA15.7) has exceeded the 800,000 km mark (see picture) last week. There are a few repairs to be done in the summer when I have time. I need information beforehand and hope for your help. 1) Motor suspensions / engine cushions The engine suspensions or engine cushions are worn out and The following parts are/should be changed: I would like to use the original parts or parts of the manufacturer who made these bearings/cushions for Volvo. Since the spare parts are probably cheaper with the supplier of Volvo, the question: Who produced the bearings/cushions for Volvo? 2) Change heat exchanger The heat exchanger for the interior must be replaced. Which spare part is recommended? The original heat exchanger will be replaced over time and Is there a better heat exchanger that no longer has this problem? 3) Since the water cooler is leaking, I would like to replace it. I have selected the following parts for the exchange (number I have not listed): Since I want to buy the spare parts before, the question: Did I forget something? 4) Which part number have the protective adhesives ifen for the front mud flaps? I would like to thank you in advance for your help!

Hello to you, my father and I were on the road with the Volvo earlier and were driving a parking lot. At the parking lot my father wants to straight into the free parking bay. At the front right in the parking space there is a VW Golf next to us, which sits back and does not look back. We are firmly convinced that my father brought the car to stand before. The golfer then crashed accordingly with the fender and the tire into our bumper. The damage is Not a big one, except on a broken varnish with us and with the participant a slight dent in the fender. Since the golfer did not realize that he was unattentionally putting back and also was not ready to tell us his address and the insurance I called the police. After this had arrived everyone made his statement. I was a passenger with my father and then also made a statement. However, the other claimed in front of the officials that my father He fully cleanly And as it is, the police could not determine who is now the cause of the accident. Personalities were taken and the accident recorded. The police informed that all involved mail was received from the county and a fine was imposed. If the golfer is to blame, he must reckon with about 100 euros and 1 point. If my father is to blame, he must expect a fine of 20 – 30 euros. After the recording immediately went to the Volvo dealer. The report was sent to the police as a copy of the report. I would be pleased if someone knew the advice. Greetings Marius

Hello, I plan to introduce you to an interesting Fehrler picture. I bought a V70 T5 with a vending machine. On purchase there was a problem (known) that the engine always started to cook quickly. Previous owner changed: cooler and WaPu, without success problem I solved: cracks in the balance tank, exchanged everything Tutti! How far this has to do with the oil pressure first I don’t know, for that I have too little experience with Volvos, therefore I wanted to B5234T3 AW50-42 154T KM (Checkbook up to 130 at Volvo) So to the actual problem: The oil pressure drops spontaneously. This happens when it happens, only with warm engine. I have had it up to now only 4 times on approx. 100km. 1. quiet drive (lamp simply on, engine turned off, oil level checked, tightness, everything i.o.) motor to everything, lamp from… 2. car back to the workshop (to the yard, lamp oil pressure flickers and to, I the speed is increased, from the car out, hood up, engine listen… everything is good, in the car the lamp is already off again.. 🙁 ) So now it became too colorful for me. Oil level i.o., runs without murmuring. I changed the oil incl. the filter. I filled in 5w40 of Total. I also replaced the oil pressure switch. 3. I drove about 25km everything ok. The engine had been warm all the time and also turned higher. Then quickly over a truck. I drove on normally and in the next turn the lamp turned on again. This has stopped the next 1000 meters. I switched off the engine and started immediately. Lamp remained on. Engine stopped again, 7 sec. engine waited again on the lamp…. for the next 30km… :-((( I have now replaced the oil tank replaces the sealing rings. 2x on the tub, 1x on the tube, 1x oil pipe, In the oil tank was a lot of oil sludge I cleaned it. Engine with LiquiMolly cleaner running. Oil (now 10w40 Liqui Molly) and filter changed. Everything was fine again! 4. On the way home (10km) the lamp turned on again. But I didn’t care that I went on. The lamp went out again and has not been on since. About 15 KM! I have no idea what it should be. I can’t imagine the oil pump. How can it lose the oil pressure for a short time and then rebuild it again. n?! I’m sure you still have the one or the other idea! LG, Vadim

Hello dear Volvians! Have a problem with my 70s ! B5252s approval 9/1997! I’ve been on season for quite some time in Western Austria! The car was now about 2 months under the most severe conditions snow cold etc. shoveled him last week free and started !!! sprang up immediately and ran like a 5nd should!! but only about 15min. until the operating temperature was reached. Died off and it helped everything not any more mucks!!! Today the same Scenario ran like ne a ns, operating temperature reached and out of no more mucks!! I have already checked ignition cable / plug – cables of the various sensors! What can that be???? I have neither readout device available nor Öamtc od ect. What I noticed when he just before operating temperature was no longer accepted gas or only hesitant! Would the petrol pressure regulator be a candidate????? Please for help or someone had something like that! Thank you in advance!