Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Yesterday the TÜV approval of my 850 and the trailer was available. The trailer got the badge without defects, the Volvo did not. In the car the AU was the problem: The measurement showed that the CO content is too high. 0.874% instead of maximum 0.3%. Error deleted and rereaded: A2 = 1-2-2 A2 = 5-2-1 B2 = 1-2-2 (can I ignore) At times the errors could not be deleted at all, sometimes they came again after the deletion, although the engine remained out Since I did not fall on the head bi My first thought: wrong air, lambada probe or cat. Unfortunately, the brake cleaner was all, so only one visual inspection was carried out – nothing found. The *Kat I replaced with a used part – MKL still glows. *Lambada probe replaced by used part, MKL still glows. *(Both parts are proven to be ok) Where is the dog hiding?

hello people, it’s about a volvo 850 2.5l gasoline with 20v build yearb 96 the following problem: in empty run the rotary zal fluctuates between 1300 and 500U almost goes off. the thing can hardly be driven if man wants to give gas nothing comes only when man the gas pedal completely penetrates for about 2-3 seconds then he comes back only again but also after that is quickly gone again. flammable candles only looked at looks really good even with a ignition center the sparks checked ignition cables distribution finger and cap petrol filter oil trap flame screen underpressure flaps clean throttle flap cleaned empty run regulator cleaned crankcases all hatches new air filter all was made and still the same. does anyone know the problem? next I would exchange the potentiometer of the throttle flap. thank you first in advance greeting dj

Hello guys, on my V70 I the central lock on the tailgate has not been working for some time. When I press the ZV closes everything except the tailgate. I have to close it manually. When opening the tailgate, the tailgate is also locked. Did I lock the tailgate manually and then close the rest with the ZV so the HK is open again. Is there a control unit that is defective? What else can it be. Thanks for your help. recos1

Hello all, I want to change the track rod head and the axial joint at my C70. The steering has a small play (right wheel) and cracks with strong impact in shunting operation. At Skandix or Polar-Parts a spare part costs 10.50 €. That speaks of course. On the other hand, swedenteile.de assumes something over 22 € (e.g. track rod head). Since I don’t want to exchange the parts again shortly after the warranty period, I wanted to ask you better about your experiences. like “Skandix Hausqualität” I like to take note of it, but this says little about longevity. Who can say anything about it? Best regards Thomas

Hello together, I had the following problem with my little one the week. On the way to work I suddenly had problems in the first driving stage. It felt as if the clutch slipped through on a switchcar. So I needed significantly more gas to start up than usual. Likewise, after the brake was released, my car did not start automatically, as is usual with an automatic. After inserting the second driving stage, this problem no longer existed. At the same time, flashing in the tacho This automatic arrow. So I couldn’t use winter mode anymore. On the way home the arrow was still blinking, but the automatic functioned again perfectly…. The next day I wanted to go back to work, but the big boat stopped. So I started the brake and gave gas as before with a carburetor and look, it went on. As soon as I took the foot off the gas he went out immediately. So the box is standing since that. That’s stupid, because I use the car as a company vehicle . I gave up the “tolle” A6 because I like cars with style. Ok, a bit of ado. Anyway, I need the car urgently and so things just go on my cap. Oh, it’s a 95er 850 T5R which I move almost daily 260 km to work (and I love it!). Error message according to OBD: Automatic: 3-2-2 (wrong translation ratio) Injection: 1-2-1 (LMM wrong signal) I don’t know if there is a connection or stupid coincidence. I smoke help!!! Thanks and greeting Stephan

So dear community, I know I’ve been very quiet for a long time, but there’s still me and my moose. Still! Since I’m working on a SKODA Octavia, I’d like to offer my VOLVO. Maybe someone in northern Germany is interested in you! Thanks again for the funny chats, helpful tips, bickery meetings and stimulating discussions! This is just unique here! Your DaCoachAdvertise eBay

Good evening, regarding the chassis I wanted to ask which you can recommend for the T5 in the V70I? I had read that many of the yellow Konis drive, but these are probably no longer available? Instead, the orange KONI STR.T are distributed, has someone experience there? What do the Bilstein B6 look like? Should it be one of the upper two, what does it look like with a lowering (max. 30 mm each), influence on comfort, no longer mobile since to “deep” already for certain parking houses r? A bit of look, lower is good, but the rest must not suffer The KW V1 is unfortunately not available for the 850/S/V70 and V2 as well as V3 is the setting thing now, apparently complicated what you leave in forums… The car is a pure holiday car, however, besides comfort a certain tight driving behavior is desired. No racetracks, or the like should be visited, also this is not a working vehicle which is to be fully loaded or to pull trailers. I am very curious about your recommendation!

Hello Maybe someone had a similar problem before, but I haven’t found a suitable thread so far… In my 850er (Bj. early 1995, still with OBD I Diagnosis box) during the highway ride all the pointer instruments of the speedometer / combination instrument at once failed or all pointers (windiness indicator, tank indicator, temperature indicator, rev indicator) “fall” to zero position and still show no reaction, not even a twitch when switching on the ignition. The total and day-kilometre display has also stopped at this time… The car runs without problems, all light symbols in the lower range work and run out after starting – only the warning arrow of the automatic transmission flashes due to the lack of speed signal. I have turned out the error codes, the set errors show nothing further except the mentioned missing speed signal – but: the interesting error memory of the beech A7 from the instrument cluster shows no feedback – not even the 1-1-1 comes back … no reaction/blinkcode, contacting I tried several times, the pin is well in the socket – maybe there is also a connection here ? If the instrument cluster or its board is possibly dead, then nothing arrives at the OBD anymore ? The speedometer lighting works by the way – its fuse is also intact … a separate protection of the display (a I don’t seem to have the 4 pointer instruments) as far as I have taken this from the descriptions of the fuses at first sight. I have not yet expanded the speedometer unit, in the hope of pointing out a perhaps simpler problem… Maybe someone has an idea. Thank you in advance!

Moin 2 weeks ago my clutch came in with slipping through in the 5th gear at full throttle. Very uncool Especially when it was changed before “only” 130,000km (in a free workshop at the time). A “blow” while uncoupled when starting it had already been his 2 years in about but not always. So at Ft Albert ordered new clutch (and also the centring tool), clutch of Sachs incl. rear bearings. Siris were made 5 years ago and since everything was dry I did not order them, for need I would have had the The old clutch was so finished, the master in the self-help workshop said something like that he never experienced in 40 years of professional experience. Also the short running performance seemed very funny to him. So the old clutch was not a NoName from LUK. The pressure plate had a rough groove, looks like the rivets did this but they are compared to soft metal. The flywheel is fortunately ok, minimal unevenness but ok, I replace next time outlay also finished, a lot of play and also worn out.. Installation was a bit tricky due to the 30kg++ weight of the gearbox. The rest afterwards was “industry” and after 6 1/2 hours I was finished. The interesting is that both the first (original) clutch as well as the one from Luk went very hard (very hard pedal). The new goes “butter soft” as I did in other 8s. Greetings a tired (but happy) moose driver

Moin moin, our Volvo just went out a few days ago and can’t be done any more. I switched the camshaft sensor for the first time. One time for one of our other 850 with 2.5 liters and one new one. The ignition cables were hit, so I changed them for the one from the other Volvo (they’re just new). I can only measure the ignition chairs between plus and minus. Between the ignition connection (the big one) and minus, mass and minus. plus (measured for safety) I can only measure an infinite large resistance. So I also exchanged the fuses for the ones from the other 850. I measured them before, everything ok. However, the one from the other had this 4-pin plug, which is connected again with two cables to the fuses. I removed the cables and connected the connectors from the vehicle there. Nevertheless, no ignition spark. The fuses get 11,xx Volt voltage, the old fusespu Hle didn’t have a 4-pin plug, but simply had two connectors (plus and minus). The vehicle has no immobilizer unlocked with this pen. I don’t know how exactly the ignition is “controlled” by the vehicle if the chair has only two connectors. I would be grateful for any help because I don’t want to buy ten pieces on suspicion and the error then disappears without knowing what it was.