Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello all together would like for 50€ a Volvo good condition with TÜV Buy V70 1999 2.4 170 HP The question He resounds only on 4 cylinders Compresion measured cylinder 1 2 3*5: 8-8,30 BAR cylinder 4 MAX ; 6 BAR What is actually worth 12 bar ??? The car has by the way only 500,000 kilometers is very little ?? Did TÜV drive new tires all weather CA 5000 KM New candles and ignition coil timing belts change CA 80.000 km Should be driven at 150,000 km Inne part leather Pretty used but is ok For the price 50€ man can not complain 1. hand throttle flap should be defective And engine smells good but when it is warm then the cylinder 4 starts not to ignite engine control light lights up and I believe ETS ????? What does all this ETS thank you in advance

Moin people, I know, is a special topic, but maybe one of you has a clue about it! And I have installed a used Guard II relay in my 850 (part number 9166157). Installation is easy and programming the remote controls is easy, too, you should think! Now there is the following problem: I have been programmed a remote control without any problems, the other two do not want to fail! According to the nice Volvo program there are two Part numbers for the remote controls for the Guard II system, once the 9442981 and the 9442983, the remote controls should be absolutely identical, also look identical and should both work with the above-mentioned relay! Can it be that the relay does not throw out an old remote control like the standard ZV module as soon as a new one is learned but only three can be learned in total? Can one somehow reset that? Am really a bit desperate, since the remote control I’m excited and grateful for your ideas and answers!! Johnny PS: I’ve got a picture of the three remote controls, the middle ones could be programmed, the other two didn’t! Johnny PS: I’ve got a picture of the three remote controls, the middle ones could be programmed!

Hello, would you like to know if this is a hobby screwdriver from the Rhine-Main area? Greetings gagi

Hello guys Well, I don’t know exactly where to start. So, I’m driving a 850, built-in 95. Last week I was fitted a new engine. It looked clearly different from the one that was in it before. Among other things, there was a pump fixed, but it was not connected with a hose or cable. So far so good. Sunday I drove a distance of 500km everything good, except that it consumed about 3l of oil. Monday I then have a little bit of the diagnostic plugs (the, the The gas smell came from a thin, white tubing made of hard plastic that ran between the connections of the spark plugs and the lid of the engine block. Well, he had an open end, and far and wide no connection where I could put it. The shawl was not really fixed anywhere. Well, gasoline smell, so I rang the garage, They came around with a trailer and we wanted to drive him out of the driveway about 3m and then the last 3m on the trailer. Well, I only came the first 3m…..then the engine was in flames. I got out of the car, bonnet up and with the little fire extinguisher in, well, that was nonsense, so garden hose from the neighbor. Luckily I had reactivated the previous day. After felt 5 minutes the fire was out. It was really a full fire, But I think I just hope up to the front wall. The engine and all plastic as well as bonnet, scrap. 🙁 Well, that my beloved old well leased Volvo is probably scrap :-(…but my question. It looks like the distributor cap exploded, which definitely hasn’t melted, I was faster with the water. How can petrol come in there? and.. what was this thin hard plastic hose? Was that the fuel line? I’m not a mechanic, I drive and care only, I always let the rest be done by the workshop, this time unfortunately by a freeman:-( So, yes, the fire department was also there, police and Gaffer. And another question: clearly there is a black spot on the road, not greasy but just a fire spot. In the evening I got a short message from a friend of the fire department, he said I had to report this spot to the community, otherwise I would be responsible if an accident happened here. Is that true? I mean the police and the feu They were there, too.

Moin to everyone, read here for a long time with and with my first thread I need help from you immediately. I drive, among other things, for about 3 years a Volvo 850 2.0. Purchased with approx. 290tsd KM and after a short time I was allowed to have the clutch replaced first. Now he has approx. 350tsd on the clock and was up to now absolutely no worry child. TÜV e.g. 1.5 years ago passed without defects. At all I was very satisfied with the Volvo – no rocket with the engine, but cozy and cult. Now catches The engine is stuttering and has no power, it seems to me that it only runs on 4 cylinders. Besides, it starts badly. But the bad starting behavior has been present for a long time, so perhaps a separate error. I imagine, however, that it has become worse. So it should be something with the ignition or injection, I mean at least. But the MKL would have to start there? Doesn’t it… spark plugs 35tsd KM came new, also a distributor cap and finger. The ignition coil looks good, not started or striking. So a week ago I quickly changed the ignition cables on the side of the road. During a short test drive I had to overtake a tractor and turn almost into the limiter. After the speed orgy everything was back to normal and it ran as before. Unfortunately, this only lasted until yesterday morning and the engine now runs like a sack of nuts again. For every help I thank you here, because the car is also our workhorse and is needed almost every day at the moment. So thank you very much in advance…

Hey municipality, In the logbook of my future Volvo I saw that some models have the turn signal lever equipped with cruise control. I get a V10 with 144hp, but without a computer on board. Only the displays for outside temperature and time can be seen. Now I know from some other brands and models that the cruise control could be retrofitted by simply replacing the turn signal stick (example: Vectra B 2.2 TDI) Is this also possible with the Volvo? has anyone ever done this before? Questions about questions…

Moin an alle I have a question about the color code. In the vehicle light under R there is nothing and under 11 is yellow, which is not correct in any way. The Volvo is silver, but not normal silver, but more so….yes, how can I say…it plays a little bit into the golden, but only very little. The color also looks different in the case of sun exposure or shadows. At that time I was called “moonstone pearl effect”. Can one more help me. I would need the code because I paint la I’ll say thank you.

Hello, I would like to give a hint here how to permanently glue the rear window on the C70 convertible with the fabric roof. The problem concerns sooner or later all convertible drivers. The adhesive ages, the fabric skin shrinks and the disc dissolves. I achieved the real lasting success with Sikaflex 252 construction glue black and a disc primer black. I removed the old adhesive remains as well with a knife on the fabric inside. which remains on the disc I completely replaced with a Ceranfeld scraper. This is important, that there is no residue left here. All previous tests failed on the strip and missing adhesion. After that I cleaned all adhesive surfaces with acetone and applied the black primer both to the inside of the fabric cover and the adhesive surface of the disc. Then Sikaflex glue is applied on both sides with a high-quality cartridge gun . I emphasize high quality because the glue is extremely tough and inferior pistols quickly get to their load capacity. Quietly apply a little thicker in caterpillar shape then. Excess glue residue can be easily removed in hardened condition with the knife. The cover was all the time open in the back and thus relaxed position. Fixing aids such as suction cups oä offered in the whole sets at overpriced prices were not needed. After 12 hours the I hope this tip will help one or the other. Best regards Frank

Yesterday was the timing belt with the pump and rolling on it. It worked very well except for a few annoying little things, like laying on the timing belt and the old sealing residue of the wapu without getting rough methods (only soft sandpaper). I changed the rear camshafts Simmerrings immediately. I had this deeper variant. It is a 10v 144PS machine. I pulled them out with two screws and a bridge. Unfortunately forgot to take pictures. Otherwise driven with the “famous” 32 nut. Yes well, I’m going. I think it sounds quite good, but something is funny. Engine turned off. Engine hood on. Cover timing belts again. Engine on. Flashlight in the area water pump… It runs out below. I didn’t think so. I got the crisis. First one smoked. Well, and then I removed everything so far that I got to the screws of the wapu. But of course I had to dismantle the tensioner. I can’t wait to see if it’s tight. I’m still unsure. Yesterday it was already late. Now to my question: Can that be? Then I can throw the cart away right away. It can’t be on the sandpaper or… Greetings Frank.

Hello together…. Didn’t find anything in the “search”….. The panel, which is screwed firmly with three screws, can not be screwed firmly with me anymore. Unfortunately, the brackets no longer hold and the panel comes down then…. How can you get this under control!? Laterally fix? Or is there a repair kit, like with the rear flap cover? Best regards Bird152