Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Our 850s is constantly jogging. That started about 3 years ago very slowly. Only occasionally he jerked out. Mistakes turned out: throttle valve poti disorder. I changed that -> no change. It creepingly became worse. Only when you drove on the highway at higher speed it hardly occurred. Finally, however, even if weaker. If I keep the gas constant (e.g. country road with 80-100 km/h) it goes down at the speed than when you take away gas. When I take gas away and wait for an eye view, I can give gas again normally (as if he has thought about it). When starting and changing gas in the e.g. city traffic, he jerks quite strongly. If I pull the plug of the throttle flap pot it runs much quieter, almost without jerking. I have already done this without having changed something: – throttle flap pot, that is already the third (bosch) – ignition cable replaced (bosch) – throttle flap removed, for a brew – new temperature sensor in the air filter – vacuum sensor changed – ignition coil changed (Bosch) – ignition parts/fingers (Bosch) – fuelilter changed – fuel relays (103), sometimes bridged – spark plugs I have already changed in the course of time – plugs removed from the Lambda probe (is still the first one), no change he jerks further – petrol pump is new about 15 years ago; one hears that it pumps (especially, If you bridge the relay) – Oil trap once about 5 years ago. Is there a vacuum hose on it? I don’t remember it any more. I thought I had found it. Crack in the rubber of the vacuum hose to the throttle flap. I changed and all the rubbers, the “locker” sat also. Pressure sensor removed, connections sprayed with WD 40. After that it was gone for some time, but now it came up again. Markus had the car before, with him this did not occur. He had the Stec ker des Poti with WD 40 flooded the battery for several days before. So slowly I am stuck with my Latin at the end. Does anyone have another idea? ECU? I had the error memory once “deleted” by holding together the two battery cables. Shouldn’t one do so. Cable break on the plug of the Poti?; can one buy a new plug somewhere? Can one remove the plug box of the control unit without causing major damage?

Good morning, holiday between the holidays is shitty cooling water tank after just under 24 years of leaking. No problem, new org. ordered and installed. Let the car run in the stand to see that everything is tight. Determined, that the warm exhaust steam also in the middle of the car is looking for its way. Exhaust putts first needlessly patched ( empty can brake cleaner cut open and attached with hose clamps) New exhaust ordered at Polar Parts. Comes next week. The wheel has found that the axle bearing has skyrocketed on the right inside. Wags a lot. Must therefore be ordered by MEYLE. Now my question: can I turn the strut to the side after loosening on the right to renew the bearing? On the left, the bar bar has to go in addition? Does anyone have an instruction for me and my workshop? My screwdriver booth knows well with all vehicle brands but Volvo is now not a VW greeting Timo And if you can no longer fit into this m year, a good and accident-free slide.

Hey, I’m in a pretty stupid situation, my car was broken up overnight in a public parking lot and everything was removed: radio, electronic devices and personal items, but that’s not all: There were also diverse parts stolen from the engine room! The spark plugs are missing, the control unit… Must sleep today for a fortune in the Swedish hotel, because my “home” is poorly accessible 140km from here… I don’t know myself so much t and don’t know if it might make more sense to give it away as a spare part store to self-pickers than to try a replacement… I still have a control unit lying around and spark plugs would also be affordable, but the rest? There’s a cut cable and still everything possible…. I once marked the things in a photo that probably shouldn’t be like that Could close the car again despite broken lock… There seemed to be someone to have a clue, The windows weren’t smashed… I’m really about to crash, who’s doing this? I have to take the bus tomorrow for 6 hours…. At the moment I think I’m just offering the car for free to pick up and from now on I’m just riding a bike…. From the dream(((

Had run a 850 TDI 96er a week ago with torn off screws at the main bearing docks on stage ! ~350,000km, rougher / unround motor run for a long time. For troubleshooting was pretty much everything checked / changed what was possible. (pump, all engine bearings, vacuum hoses, injection nozzles incl. needle lifter etc.) At the last start the engine suddenly ran extremely rough, vibrating from 2000 rpm very strongly. At the stand suddenly a loud bang and strong oil loss. Mo The oil tank had a big hole and a screw of the main bearing bulge was on the asphalt. After dismantling the oil tank (SWINE WORK) the damage was nice to see. On the fourth bearing bulge a screw was torn off, on the fifth one one was torn off, the second one probably turned out. Lt. Information of a friend AUDI mechanic this is known by the AEL motors. Supposedly there are changed screws (higher strength) at AUDI. After my forums the damage occurs. The oil tank is not as deep as in the rest of the area. But I can’t imagine that this has something to do with it.

Servus all over, I would like to renew my automatic transmission oil after 230,000 km, contrary to Mr. Volvo’s other statements (problems don’t exist…). What happened before, you don’t know. With the method, how it comes out of the Volvo book (downloaded here somewhere in this forum), which is essentially in line with the Haynes book, I come only a few liters, much less than here some indicate. In principle, what goes out, also has to go in again. How does this come about? Is this the case? I read everything from 12 to 15 l. I ask because the oil is not just a gift and is certainly too bad to stand around. It probably won’t get better over the years. By way of the official method I would have added a cleaner before the rinse. The method itself is trivial (two out of five screw keys at Haynes ) I plan the Fuchs ATF 5000 SL to use (Dexron IIe), despite the fact how many claim that subsequent Dexron classifications are backward compatible. As I read at the star dock gate (but about other oils) a lot is claimed… The Dexron IIe is the official oil. In another place here the fox oil was attested best quality. I wonder if a flushing by TE is as cheap as some indicate what it fills for an oil quality. Thank you for your answers. -helmut

Hello together…… I want to change my ABS/Tracs SG (BJ 96). I need a “innertorx” nut for my ratchet. With a normal nut I can’t get the four screws out. Someone know what size this “innertorx” nut must have? VG Bird

Hi, it’s my first post here in the forum. I’ve recently been driving a V70 BJ 99 (motor B5252FS/S with mechanical throttle flap) and have a question about the hot air flap. I know that there are many threads on the topic at different places, but I couldn’t find satisfactory answers so far. I noticed recently that my hot air flap is always a gap open. I then looked at this more closely and found out that in my car two different mechan On the one hand, there is a vacuum hose that is controlled by a thermostat valve at the top of the air filter box. This part seems to work. Then, however, there is also a stretch element on the flap itself. This no longer works properly. It does not come out far enough at normal summer temperatures and the flap is always half open. I took the part out once. If you blow it, it pulls out completely and In the built-in condition, however, this never happens. I checked it in mid-summer with a warm driven engine. Unfortunately, in this construction, as far as I can see through it, the stretch element is not replaceable, since it cannot be taken out as with previous or later models without destroying the housing with the underpressure mechanism. Does anyone know why two different mechanisms were installed here at all? I don’t understand this so properly. My attempts to I am now considering whether I can clamp something behind the stretch element so that the flap is closed in warm weather but can still be opened in the cold by the vacuum hose. Does anyone have experience with this? Alternatively, an older air filter box could also be installed, where you can easily buy the thermostat from Skandix for 26 euros. But I don’t know if this would fit at all and I want to understand for the first time what the two mechanisms are supposed to do before I expand it. I am grateful for any help!

I can’t stand it!!! I have to park my car in front of the main road at the moment because my garage was torn down. At the weekend he is standing behind the house in the parking lot (which is actually meant for our customers), during the week in front of the office (I have to go from home to the office 200m). For three days he is standing there. This morning I come and then that. Some xxxxxxxxx (here please use the power expressions of your choice. Several!) has a balloon filled with a water/gips. What kind of xxxxxx are running around here in the world? Is it still possible?!?!??? Is the world going completely crazy now? I can puke! I then got it down with lots of water and then washing system. Luckily no scratches. But does that have to be? My moose is now parked in safety on the yard. Now our customers have to look where they park. The frustrated Mike

Good morning dear moose community, before I ask here, I looked only in the search function, but there I found unfortunately nothing exact. When I operate the disc cleaning system, the wipers of the headlights run with. approx. 3-4 times. It is also ok. Only the right one stops, if he gets no ́signal (current) from the steering stick lever anymore. So if I operate the steering stick lever, all wipers sit in motion, I let it go, should all still a few times nac This is also what everyone, except the right headlight wiper, does, which stops as soon as the steering stick lever is no longer operated. In order to get the wiper in the basic position, I always have to operate the steering stick lever easily so that the short power gets and thus is transported to the basic position. The relay can not be, otherwise the others would also stop if I no longer operate the steering stick lever, it will not every So, before I expand the wiper motor, I’d rather ask here what causes this mistake. The wipers are stuck, nothing shakes. Never had a wiper for the headlights, I don’t really need them either, but they are there and they are also on the move. Spring greetings from Düsseldorf

Hello, I have to roll up the sorry re-encryption topic again, since I have found no relevant answer in the forum even after a long search. The thing is: I bought a mini-cat after I have informed myself which engine types (with me B5252S) installation and control reduction are possible. At the workshop appointment you go through the ABE booklet with me and notice that the transmission type also plays a role. According to Appendix 2J/02 supplement 02 to the test report And this is only possible with automatic transmission. So, I agreed with my workshop man that the exhaust gas values are hardly influenced by the transmission. So the entry is missing, because it simply no one tested (vlt. has Volvo sold this model mainly with automatic transmission?). I have now already written to the company, which carried out the tests, whether there is a supplement for the manual transmission, but have not yet But I think I have read out in some old threads that people with a 850 model like mine have already made this conversion successfully. However, the formulations and information were always somewhat inaccurate. Is there someone out there with the 106kW 850er with Minikat and EURO2 despite 5-speed manual transmission? And if so, how did you get there? Please and thank you and dear greetings! PS: in the appendix my execution of the ‘Approval Document’ which I received from the company Walker to my cat was sent along