Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello everyone, right in time for the falling temperatures here again a question that has to do with my 850er and its behavior in Nordic conditions. This time it’s about the battery. At the moment I have a Varta D26 with 510A cold start current and 66 Ah capacity. Since at the local temperatures after the second start attempt is anyway, in my opinion the capacity is not the most important (even though it would be nice to have a bigger battery). But now it was only -2°C cold last weekend, and already there was nothing more going on. So far the battery has kept well (the old box has already survived two brutal winters under the open sky), but now a new one has to come. In the booklet is under the battery specifications “520A/100”. Does that now 520A cold start current and 100 Ah capacity? Can someone help me? As far as the available batteries here in Tallinn are concerned: Almost everything, from Bosch over Exide to Varta is to have been found. But so far I have neither one of my current battery nor one of the indications in the magazine to make a stronger battery pass?

Hello together…. Let’s ask a question, maybe someone has an idea…. Meanwhile we have been able to successfully repair my ABS/Tracs SG. Thanks again to Terwi and Lucky CD! Unfortunately, the four screws are no longer ok, but the device is currently installed again and for almost 14 days and several kilometers the lamps no longer shine. However, we would replace the four screws with new ones, because the heads are completely unusable. However, these screws are no longer available to buy, at least at a Volvo dealer in DA and at a part supplier (everyone knows it) in HH. Does anyone have any idea where I can get these four screws or a suitable replacement? The three lamps/lamps for lighting the climate control unit cost a proud 6 thalers per piece. Is there probably only as an original replacement and not from Osram or/and Co…. Someone an idea how to bring the completely dark operating part back to lighting more cost-effectively?! VG Bird

Moinsen, I wanted to complain to you about my suffering For 2 days now I have had a strong “rubbling” in the brake. You know from the T5 – clearly the rear panes, which are warped… …thinkest! Yesterday evening fast down on the lifting hill and wheels at the rear. Measuring clock set up and turned. Nothing! Discs are tippitoppi just without blow. Seen more. Seen: brake lining in the rear left has no contact to the slide! There is loosely 2mm air between the support image of the disc on the inside -ääääärks, looks like 10 years in the rain! Free access brake lining inside? Failed display! Free access piston inside? Fail display! Great sausage – there probably the previous owner when changing the brake linings at the HA forgot the Plasilube, and the BreFlüssigkeit has probably been treated a bit more deeply. I changed it from last year, but already too late, the corrosion had already begun to be able to do so now, the brake pads have a new one.

Hello Elch municipality, I’m interested in a C70 I (as a coupe) have one in mind. Now I have a few questions to the “Heavy” user. On the one hand I would be interested in how it looks like with the attachments. In the advertisement it says that all possible attachments like Lambdasonde, brakes, throttles and also the timing belt were made in 2010. Is there something else missing? So cross handlebars, LiMa or maybe something else? (the car ran 120tkm) And then I would like to have it converted to gas, since I have already had good experiences with my V40. Has someone had experience there? Because that shouldn’t be quite uncomplicated with the turbo.

Before someone asks: Yes, I have used the Sufu here, but not found anything ugly, what could fit – apart from ‘times fast’ gear oil change … Live in a nice settlement on/on’m mountain and recently I went down here with a window. By a wall, it struck me quite clearly, when I gave light gas: Baaah, what is that for a grinding noise ? Sounds gruesome / harmful ! Trit only when giving gas, so at load on – in the 1st m.E. relatively (very ?) loud, in the 2nd still clearly noticeable, in the 3rd is then already the rest drumherum louder. With window / slide roof too (and radio out) one listens to it in the car inside nix ! To say that this noise at increasing speed in the respective gear is still quieter than louder. Also it somehow does not play a real role, whether I ride up with a lot or little gas or only when rolling down the hill is not easy to get the pin all over again?

Hey guys, I’ve been talking to you guys as a NOCH alive!! The feeling that you want to kill your own car isn’t so bad! Believe me!! Yesterday on the way from Hamburg to Berlin it was almost time that the party had to go on without me! I had to do a bad full braking on the left lane at a little over 180 km/h, which is already stupid enough with the discreetly undersized brake, but actually would have been feasible, my little Suicidebomber would have done that too! But unfortunately it was only a “half brake” !! To the sequence: I step on the brake and pull the crate to the right in a crash-like manner, counter-directed at 180° showed hardly any effect, the car starts to turn on itself quite fast, meanwhile I am already on the right track, the front picks up the control plank, my foot still misses the floor plate, and then I have been able to write it again today.

MOIN! I haven’t been able to find much in the SUFU especially for my question; so I’ll ask you! I want to mount an original VOLVO AHK to my combi! if possible it should also be removable! do I have to cut something out of the back apron when installing the AHK? I wanted to avoid that when it’s possible! does any of you have something worth experiencing? thank you in advance!

Hello people I have a very pitiful problem…. And no sayings please by reason of search function and already a thousand times through… So: #3 got another driver door today. Now both the combination switch for the tank flap / back flap lock as well as the internal locking switches on driver as well as on passenger seat do not work anymore… Hangs everything together, I know. Window switch i.e. the switches work as such however 100 per, I have tested them all, or also sometimes replaced them. I have now safely checked the wire harness plug at the driver door 5 times, whether it really fits properly, cables all look ok. Something goes out of my mind and before I go behind with the measuring device: Does one of you still have a hint? Oh yes: The affected elk has no note lock for the tank flap…

Hello dear Elch municipality, I would like to change my car soon, and then I came to get a Volvo 850 station wagon. Now I wanted to ask you what you say about the 2.5 10V with automatic. One would be my first choice (must pay attention that I am NOT an apprentice, therefore no T5-R or so and the 20V models are in the insurance a whole corner more expensive) Then again a few back dates and ask of me… – I drive about 50000km/year—-65km to work. – Very much federal and country road, if highway, then also at least 400km at the piece. – even if that would be worth it, I would not like to have any diesel… (one because of the 5 cyl. sound) – Keeps the automatic long, since you do not rarely find 850er with 300,000km. – Typically weak spots?? – can be done on the autobahn with the 4 course automatic at z.b. 150-160km/h with “normal number” 4min.

Hi guys, unfortunately I don’t know what you call it, so I’m trying to describe it to you. It’s the rubber bearing, where with such a metal construction it’s stuck to the body. If you’re standing in front of the car, it’s on the right side. The problem is that it’s already quite marode, and I’d like to swap it, but I can’t get it out of it. My idea would have been to break the old one that it probably goes out, but I still don’t know what the new one is going on? (I wanted to look here at the “learning by doing” method) Does anyone know how to do it? Do you need special tools? Thank you very much in advance, if it was here in the forum, but how sat, I don’t know how to call it -.