Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Since it would blow up the scope of SEARCH, I open my own thread for it. My moose has a huge bump ahead, as I already wrote. The report is now there, result as foreseeable: economic total damage, repair costs including VAT would be almost 7,000 euros. That is unnecessarily, but not to change. Fortunately, the gas plant has increased the replacement value so far that the payment is at least more than a pocket money. If it comes to it. Because 14 days n In the event of an accident, there is still no damage report from the opponent, so the guilt question is unsolved. So I still have to take into account that the accident is denied and the opposing insurance company refuses to pay. Then a possible trial risk would come to me and if there is a lot of costs. I will have the moose repaired, it will remain and it will have to go off as soon as possible. But I have to deal with a minimum of costs, so much ic h my workshop would otherwise have enjoyed a nice job on insurance terms. Certain parts have to be new (cooler, climate cooler e.g.), but most of them can be used just as well. And here I ask for your suggestions or offers. Here is the list from the report. The body parts do not necessarily have to be black, as my free workshop is also painted.

Good morning, your moose.. My black guy is again teasing.. This morning while driving off (turning) my brake pedal started to creak when it’s easy to act.. Sounds like you didn’t get the gear properly when switching.. So to speak a “beautiful greeting from the gearbox” sound.. Just not quite as loud.. There are also clearly vibrations in the brake pedal, synchronous to the noise.. With stronger braking it’s not.. What can that be..? Does anyone know that..? a thank you and happy Easter days.. Stephan

Hello, our moose (Volvo 850 Kombi, 2.5TDi FWD, AW42 Automatik, Modell 1997, EZ 08.1996 mit Klimaautomatic) only warms with wind, the blower no longer bustes. From Flal to case something fresh… Does anyone have a guide on how to expand and/or test the blower? Thank you!

Good evening dear motor-talkers, I have a little problem with my dear 97-V70. For some time now the carpets in all four footrooms are not really wet, but still a little damp. I didn’t notice that at first, since the floor mats are dry themselves, only it smells something now and the windows fogged when it is cold outside. But the air conditioner cleans this relatively quickly and thoroughly free. At first it doesn’t seem to be serious, but it irritates me and Once there were drops in the area of the switch lever. But up to now only once came before. Next weekend I wanted to look in front of the windshield and check the drains. I also change the air filter, which is ordered immediately. I hope I can do that, but with the contributions on the topic here, this should be feasible. Do you have another idea what it could be? How can I just check if the door seals still have their name all Is there a trick? Could they become more dense with Hirschtalg or something else? Otherwise, I am grateful for every tip that could help a Greenhorn in terms of car like me.

moin ! is just about to give me a v70 beautiful spinning (or I know that it is beautiful, I mean of course the purchase). base should be a v70 of the first generation, so fl after 850, 5 cylinder turbo, i.e. 2.3 or 2.4 ltr. lifting space. with a healthy starting base I want to give the engine even more air or steam, i.e. downpipe, exhaust system etc. which of the 3 mentioned motor variants is considered as stable or has the least bitches ? whether lpt or hpt is secondary, the mo tor should simply run freer, have a little more horses and do this for a very long time. most interesting combi I would find the first xc with the engine power of the r… you will probably still be allowed to spin ah, hand switch is mandatory.

Good evening dear elk friends. I was a few days ago at the workshop of my (still) vetrauens for an oil and brake fluid change and the nice Mr. KFZ-Mechaniker said I should drive my V70 still 2 years and not put in anything (thinking) since the underfloor has already rusted. He showed with the places and it was not rusted through or similar only two metal pipes were already well rusted (possibly for the front brakes?). New underbody protection ? Has someone done this before or knows someone who had it done ? I find here in Essen no real workshop that does that but only make it on the net to myself. Thanks already for the help.

Dear Community, my 850er Kombi Bj. 95 was delivered with a detachable coupling. Unfortunately, the hook cannot be dismantled. At the coupling side right is a lever, which you only have to turn down, then the thing should dissolve. But I failed despite all efforts and fineness respectively roughness. In a post I read once that there were problems with these AHK passports, and that the AHK were therefore fixed by the workshops. Can someone confirm this, knows the “problem” or has a tip? Thank you and thank you very much, Bernhard

Hi men, my moose has the following problems, if the car is standing for a long time so if I make a cold start then it jumps directly on but starts the first minute extremely restless. So whether it does not run on all pots. After a short time it runs like a clockwork. Another problem is the crippling gas acceptance. It assumes gas etc. But is not as splashy as it should be. In general I have a considerable power loss in the overall speed range. light. Fuel consumption is also exorbitant And the exhaust gas smells strongly of gasoline. I used the symtoms to expand the spark plugs and they say quite clearly: too fat! Have the whole ignition system overtaken so that leaves out as a source of error besides it has nothing to do with the fat run. Only where is the fault? If the lambda probe should be the culprit then the MIL should be on. But that’s out. Note: I have the Fenix 5.2 Does any of you already have such Had problems ? Lg –

So, now it’s my turn, too. After having the intensified feeling that the pedals are slippery, I had to find out that the floor mat is wet on the driver’s side, while at the same time it feels a bit oily or slimy. This of course also makes the shoe sole smooth. In addition, the cooling water level slowly decreases. Ergo is probably something leaky on the heater heat exchanger. The often described further symptoms such as constantly fogged windows, fog exit from the fan nozzle n or cooling water smell (we actually smell that?) I did not find out, however. Since we had this topic already a few times, I just read a little bit. According to this instruction the heat exchanger goes without changing dashboards, that is already good. I would only like to ask those who have already done this repair, whether in such cases the heat exchanger itself is really always rot or whether other (simplistic) causes can occur. I see two flanges going through the spray wall from the engine compartment. What is behind it, pipes or hose pieces? How are the inside installed or fixed? Second question: It is possible to do a cooling system pressure test. How about the setpoint? Can all workshops do this, or do I have to go to this? Third question: Has someone got a cheap source for a heat exchanger ready or used such a part (but densely) around are you lying?

Hello elk professionals, also at the risk of being warned by the mods because of double mail: I bought a 850 “blind” which went out in a washing machine. Also the ADAC did not make it work. But it also did not check further. Distributors, cables and ignition plugs are already clear. I will check them first on Thursday. But maybe someone still has an idea or the same error already, what could be there. Some relay, a cable, a hose…. E in Marder is said to have already been in there… Would like to bring the beautiful one home on its own axis 😉