Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

I happened to come across this technical message from SKF (see PDF). It says that the gearing of the drive shaft has to be glued in to the new wheel bearing, otherwise the bearing is covered early. But I have not “lived” a glued wheel bearing so far. Is this really so decisive with the wheel bearing variant with screw (from c. 1998)? https://www.vsm.skf.com/en/en/products/VKBA3526

After I took off the panel, I noticed that the plastic panel of the rear flap lock was loose / loose, in principle was off. I then removed the plastic and built everything together again. Unfortunately, it still claps and it definitely comes out of this area. I found it lying in the trunk during a test drive… Did this panel have a function or can you put it away? Is it possible that the disguise is completely gone? VG Bird

Servus, After I bought my V70 from the previous owner already with defective climate, I wanted to get it started again. I built an adapter for filling a long time ago and filled some cars with it, always worked well over the years. (Please at this point no discussion about whether you can do this now, etc.) In this case, however, the air conditioning was not in operation for a very long time and the residual pressure in the system is now s very very low. Now I wonder if it might be necessary to refill oil with it… Wouldn’t want to refill too much. Now to the question: Do you think it is necessary to refill oil? And how do you get out roughly how much is missing? My idea would have been to put 50 ml into the new refrigerant… Thanks already for your help

Hello together, I would like to give my Volvo V70 1 more power. Had then informed me about chip tuning… but they cost clearly (unfortunately). Since I found out that the B5244S2 with 140hp engine is a throttled version of the B5244S with 170hp, I would also like to exploit this power potential (with BSR tuning you get with chip tuning to approx. 188hp). Because a chip tuning e.g. with BSR tuning costs more than 200€ if possible I would install a control unit from the B5244S to reach the 170hp….. (a control unit for the B5244S engine costs approx.70€-90€) I have a couple of questions about this conversion (if necessary there are experiences from others) 1. Can I replace the control unit so easily? (like for example plug and play so ) 2. What about the immobilizer? (is the e.g. stored in the engine control unit or is the separate? ) 3. Do I have to pay attention to something else? I would like to thank you for your ideas/helps/experiences Greeting RacingHamster

Colleagues, I had an interesting discussion on the long-term durability of cars on the weekend – and put it here for discussion. : With modern vehicles, the ever increasing electronics and networking leads to a reduction in the life of cars. The systems are complex and possibly vulnerable and after a few years the cars are not properly repairable. Observation: In the day you only have to look at the valves in the taxis. Hardly a car, in which not any warning lamp (popular: brake or ABS) is cheerfully lit. With our 1 year old Galaxy the rear-view camera is not working properly (and the workshops are also not particularly competent…). : The cars do not rust anymore. Mechanically everything is also so far ok. (apart from wear on the axle parts, but that actually does not kill anyone). Ergo, the cars end up with electronic problems… even if you still have to use macky plug connections or even Breaking cables think… So now the question arises, what are now the vehicles with the best long-term forecast / what could be used preferably. [list] S80/ V70 II – with already clearly networked electronics and control parts (there I already have some electronic zipping your opinions? Cabfreak

MOIN M-T. Community. I have for some time noticed that my elchi despite permanent “off” of the climate automatic , the climate nevertheless turns (you can hear it in a stand at a loud click and if I change the turn switch it becomes cold …ARSCHKALT ). However, it is temperature dependent . Despite that varies depending on the temperature the condensation water feet under the car . BUT HOLD, climate out and still a foot ? I know that the last climate check of the previous owner was neglected e, like pretty much everything maintenance technology , How does it work with you with the climate ?

Moin Moin to all drive a V70 I 2,4T Bj.98 Mj. 98 and have had a little problem with the cooling water temperature for a few days. When I came from AB two days ago after 40 km drive at 120-130 km/h, I noticed that my cooling water indicator rose (not yet in the red area). I then put the moose off and saw how the cooling water from the balancing tank peppered…short waded and ripped up the thing. I then filled up about 2l new water and went on with connected I let my father-in-law look for clueless things. He couldn’t detect a leak or something like that… we could already find out the following: spark plugs look top, termostat, sensor and lid from the balancing tank (green) came back last year, water pump runs and coolers get hot and drained, no white slime on the lid from the oil as well as no one on the measuring rod, fan runs, No smell of exhaust gas in the balance tank and under the car everything was dry. Yesterday evening I went back to the track and allowed Elchi a bit of passage… Conclusion; 15 min at 160-180 all Tuti ( great passage, no power loss )… then again the same problem… so the 2 km to the exit on the stand with warning blink at moderate speed…Water is overcooked again and I had to fill up well 1l then…then at 90km without further problems the 30 km back again. now the question is…where is the problem…fans, coolers, or plunging the ZKD, someone here has had the same problem or something like that that can help me.

Hello, I have the following problem with my Volvo V70 (1999 petrol smallest engine): After starting from time to time idling problems for a certain time, but then after a slight gas release they don’t show up at all. Acceleration problems from time to time, as if there was no power at all, increased at the beginning. Unfortunately, no MKL lights up, so that I can’t deduce anything from it. If the car then switches to LPG, all the problems seem to be fixed at once. Gasoline filter, pipe closed somewhere, petrol pump or relay? For example: I had the relay outside 3 months ago and even soldered it, so everything still fits. Gasoline pump can always be heard clearly running while turning the ignition key right now. Thank you for your help.

After I was helped so well with the cover of the injection strip, I noticed another phenomenon today: I went shopping and put the moose in a parking lot. On the way back I suddenly hear a “wuppwuppwup”. I had a sound like this before after a brake plate. But that can’t be this time. Can a defective wheel bearing be the reason for this?

In April there is HU again and there the moose logo is supposed to pass without any problems again. Last time the examiner has rotted – he doesn’t find the dampers so tingling anymore, but has not written down anything. In the meantime I also find it not as dolle as the rear hangs after a short time. I find that the almost 400 TKM have held, already very propper. So: NIVOs out and standard gas pressure in. The quiz questions about this here: 1) Even after a lot of searching is not really clear to me: – Must one now necessarily d he dome bearings exchange or not ? – or does the recording between NIVos and standard dampers fundamentally not fit ? 2) – Normal or reinforced springs ? – Does something speak against intact, used feathers from nem intact butcher ? About 80% the moose drives empty, i.e. 1.2 people without charge. With the remaining 20% it will surely happen, the proper charge is in it and / or a hanger is pulled with full support load. …. I do not want sparks/rills from the hook through the asphalt (The move last year with hangers true already scary) 3) – Which gas dampers by whom ? Billstein, Sachs, Monroe, … ? Sportiness is not in demand – more comfort, longevity and logo a good price. #2 has e.g. B4 v/h, I find absolutely OK.