Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello together, was today with my Green at the HU, he failed at the AU, the Lambda value is too high. From the protocol: Idle: 950 (max: 900) CO: 0.16 (max: 0.5) increased Idle: 2600 Lambda value: 1.042 (max: 1.03) CO: 0.0 (max: 0.3) He also has a hole in the exhaust just before the tailpipe. The examiner said that this is the cause. Can this be? Or false air and thus the increased Idle? Thank you for your help, Bernhard

Hello guys. I have problems with my Volvo over and over again lately. And I have sometimes (it rarely occurs, so 2-3 times on 100km) very short rucklers/slips. Sometimes I had the impression that it is dependent on speed, but then I always failed to reproduce it. But I know similar symptoms of nem VW Fox, since it always occurred at the same speed and a new camshaft sensor created remedy. In the gas operation (Landi Renzo LPG plant) nothing was noticeable yet in the petrol operation. Was then with the V70 in a car gas specialist workshop where you have cheerfully replaced parts. New evaporators, new injectors, new spark plugs. Didn’t help anything. I then changed Lambdasonde before Kat, ignition coils and again spark plugs (now Volvo original according to advice in a Facebook group). With the whole new race he ran then for approx. 100km real cream, also on car gas. But then the Rucklers came back :/ A week ago it appeared for the first time that I also noticed Ruckler in petrol operation. Then I noticed that the engine starts cold perfectly, warm but very unwillingly, only after a few seconds. So can it have something to do with the temperature management? Had once received a mistake regarding the coolant temperature sensor and then replaced it with the thermostat (in June). Yesterday came however the glei Is there something wrong with the wiring? For tips and ideas I would be very grateful! Best regards Sascha

Hello dear Volvo 850 TDI fans, I will buy our old 850 TDI back from my friend and then try to save the Volvo for my grandchildren. the following ideas float before me: 1.) Log-out and 17 years mothed, then he is 30 years and hopefully a vintage car. 2.) Log-out and 2 to 3 times a year with red number a longer distance, otherwise like number 1. 3.) Log-out and register with uncles in France and continue normally (grey on long distance to “Modificatio 5.) Continue – is with tax and insurance too expensive. 6.) Clever alternatives to this? (Inlaying with the professional is also too expensive) So, a barn would be available with a good friend. Now fill in the engine Drying and “storage oil” as well as preserve and take up the car bodies? Which spare parts should I currently put cheaply to the side? Motor electronics, turbocharger, steering gear? … for a complete z TDI is unfortunately not a place. Thank you for your help to get the posterity an excellent car, to which the environmental zone has made life too difficult. Running performance is only 175 tsd km. Greeting Manuel PS: For example SLK it won’t be enough, an old Ford Escord I sold then for 200 DM, today it would be a classic – that doesn’t happen to me again; I never owned a Golf GTI. That’s how the “old” Volvo remains.

Moin! Short and close…about 2 weeks ago I had started my V70 short, drove a bit back, maybe 1 meter, because I had to grow the underbody protection again. So….then done…Enjoyed the Sunday in peace, car stopped….Monday morning, kids threw into the car, got in and wanted to start, he jumped on and speed went down and out….First panic! 4000€ were sunk there last year. ATM, new clutch, new cooler, clean, original cooling flow I was surprised at the first moment… why always, battery charged and still a try…..Just juking…..So, even more panic! Then I thought….schei* on it! If he doesn’t want to do it anymore, I’ll crush him! But not for slaughter! : ) But then let it shudder until it smells funny, rubber. Then he jumped on and since then everything has been fine… He jumps again wie I didn’t want to start it for the one meter, but it was slightly oblique and I didn’t get pushed, or I always came back rolling. What was still after the engine change was a defective thermostat, or giver. Therefore, the thing with the underbody…I just wanted to leave the cooling water off/absorbe reasonably! But I also changed both components. In addition, there I am still researching, he loses some cooling water somewhere, etc. What was that? he. I can’t see where….how can I do it best? He doesn’t know….just in the morning, always short…But that doesn’t fit with the water loss, because the crowd goes very slowly fluted until it’s just under “min”!

Hello, the automatic climate control of my C70 stops its service after 5-10min, very annoying at these temperatures and black car. My impression is that depending on the desired cooling power and the outside temperature the failure is faster or slower. At the start two buttons blink for approx. 20sec. What can this be? Unfortunately, I have no possibility to read out the error memory completely with my OBD2 device. “BrickDiag” would be a possibility, but you can’t get there quickly ( Registration in the forum takes forever)? 1) Someone happens to have the BrickDiag.exe at hand? 2) Known error picture? 3) Tip for a good Volvo workshop in the room Osnabrück? (Are there still some other things to do) Thank you!

Hoi, guys, I can only advise you all: check your vacuum hoses from time to time! In particular, the turbo fraction should keep an eye on it, especially the whole noise that goes from the turbo to the intake tract or to the charging pressure valve. I have now replaced some with silicone (thanks to Pafro) and oopsie-Daisy, all of a sudden the charging pressure indicator shows over a much larger range what is on and the pressure & flow rate has increased noticeably. It is also true for the other air hoses, e.g. those for the intercooler (precaution: relatively expensive with Volvo!), which also consisted of a lot of good will and n bit of residual tissue. Yes, our old lady. Hardly one repairs a part of it any other, which is now more burdened.

From the kFkA thread: Quotation: @schweigers96 wrote on 6 September 2022 at 09:22:12 h: Would attach me here (also 850). Tempomat sometimes works perfectly for hours, then suddenly no more and sometimes at the beginning not at all. Sometimes it falls out when I drive over a Huckel. Presumably, either one of the electric pedal switches or one of the pneumatic pedal valves holds “just like that” and is sensitive to Wackler. (manual transmission, therefore switch/ve) ntile at clutch and brake.) The units have already been withdrawn with the method and pedal pedals are adjusted, which did not bring any improvement. There are also no error codes. Concrete question: Who has an idea of how to limit which of the four shut-off devices is to blame?

Hello, my V70 has been annoying me for some time with creeping cooling water loss. Cause is not clear. Now it turns out that cooling water accumulates under the carpet driver side. If I understand this correctly, is there something leaking on the heat exchanger of the heater, right? If I am right the following questions: 1. How can I put the loss in the footroom? Does not use the heater or do I have to let off the cooling water (do not put on the car) 2. How can I remove the water or dry it best? Is there a drain plug or should I make a bore? 3. What can be exactly defective? Heat exchangers or connecting plates? How can I find out. Does anyone have a repair manual? Where is there a low-priced replacement? Thank you for your help!!! Many greetings Stephan

Hello, the tailgate with my Sweden doesn’t stay up. Now that it’s colder it’s coming down right now. What can I do? Why doesn’t the 850 have a gas pressure lifter? Or are they hidden in the side bars? Has any of you ever built in? Have still those of my old 240 he. How do I get the wash nozzle from the tailgate. The nozzle is closed. Water is on to the back. Have opened the small flap on the right handle and removed the hose from the connector. full water power. Nothing comes out of the nozzle. Thanks for your tips.

Hello. Have a 850er, 2.5 L, 20Ventiler and the following problem: 3 weeks ago he ran only on 4 pots. New spark plugs (Volvo), new distributor runner and cap (Bosch) and discovered during removal that a spark plug at the lower edge of the insulator was broken. After the replacement he purred like a kitten. After 1500 km only on 4 cylinders again, this time the first does not run with. Spark plug was completely added, other candle and ignition cable from my part carrier was converted, no change. Ignition coil can’t really be when only one cylinder strikes? Distribution cap and runners look good, kei crack, nothing loose…. Does anyone have an idea?