Hi guys. I noticed recently when the car is still rolling and I pull the handbrake,very awfully banging in the drum. (use rarely the handbrake). First I thought,that’s what is torn,but not so. Have had the brake apart today,as far as I see,(Handbr. Rubber still ok,looks good.) The discs themselves would have to be renewed,because a brake piston is fixed (the rear) Will everything be renewed soon. Have again built together and handbrake re-set. The banging is still there, what can this be ????? We have turned the disc with the hand and then pulled the handbrake,a loud bang then there was,drum stood,handbrake released,disc can be turned. It has the appearance as if the cheeks bang against the drum,but why ????? Does that know one of you and knows how to help??? I am thankable for every advice. Thanks in advance Alf Alf.
Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum
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underpressure hose behind the lu-fi… ???
́n tach auch… haben mal an meine V70/1 gefachen. he currently runs a little rough and likes to get out… *nerve* found a loose plug which I could also assign and a loose underpressure hose of which I can not find connection. I then glued it off with airtight insulating adhesive tape, so nothing you do not know. the motor runs a little better… as said: ETWAS BESSER my question: where does this underpressure hose belong? sits behind the LMM in the suction tube. see picture
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V70 I Petrol 2l 10V 93 KW
Hello, I have a question about the performance of the 126 hp 2l 5-cylinder petrol engine.My V70 from 1997 with 271,000Km mileage has become quite lame especially when climbing climbs. Since I bought the car used, I don’t know myself how the engine ran before,but from an acquaintance who had possessed the same model once again I know that the engine had at some point dropped significantly. Does anyone of you Volvo connoisseurs know what could be responsible for it? The idle running is impeccable. A Volvo master told me on the phone what about an air volume meter that could possibly be the reason,but since I didn’t find any in my car in the area of the air supply, I assume that he didn’t have any. In various engine talk posts it was also to read that only the turbobenziners have such an air mass meter. Will be like that,or? Did anyone find the same problem with the weaker engine power and a solution? I have developed the intake temperature light today and did not feel good inside?
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Help!
Hello everyone! What I was afraid of (battery too weak ), came in. When I wanted to start today, nothing went any more. I now hanged it on the charger and the battery takes on power, BUT: The immobilizer does not stop blinking when I plug in the pen. It continues to flash and a start is not possible. Does anyone have a tip? I can’t go any further. I have to say something about it: above the passenger door, inside, behind the “fear attack” (handling handle ) is a small rosette with a small hole in the middle. There comes out, as soon as the ignition is switched on, a very strange noise, a kind of clatter. It stops when you turn off the ignition again. Could possibly have to do with the central locking. I had often gone after this noise unsuccessfully. Today I found it by accident.
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Sales intention 98 he V 70 R Awd
So, guys like the title already says I think about selling my R. 2 reasons 1 I’m just in the middle of the renovation of our house 2. I want to get back old Chevy question is now what can I demand? Is a 98 he Automatic in mystik silver. 120000 ran by invoices. runs well. runs well. New parts all in the last 5 months. Gear flushing plus additive axle measurement new After the Heico Ecu history ne new Ecu and beginning of January ne coordinated 280 Ps software from the software king Daniel. Original exhaust 17 inch brake discs and pads new hand brake discs coverings plus hand brake jaws and ropes new petrol filter new air conditioning oil trap pollen filter Termostat Temp sensor cooling water air filter oil change Lmm all underpressure hoses plus load air hoses rear disc wiper motor plus complete rod all heat exchanger charging pressure control valve empty control switch Poti C70 honeycomb grill belt super shaft sensor Ot enger Zündspelle Künde Verstellung plus finger cable Rückscheiner Beißlich Beißlösser geht.
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Contact plate (Zündschloss) Volvo 850 Kombi
Hello together, some time ago I asked here about an electrical fault and got help immediately. I was pointed out to the contact plate in the ignition lock at the Volvo 850 Kombi. Yesterday I was finally at a Volvo dealer near us (after the error now permanently occurs) and wanted to buy the part. In the forum it was written that the plate costs 35-50 Euro, and when the dealer then yesterday wanted to have 152,- Euro without installation I was quite surprised. Therefore my question… Is there different parts or is this perhaps different from model to model? 152,- Euro for the contact plate was too expensive for me and therefore I ask here again, maybe someone has an idea what went wrong… Didi
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Flattering in the front axle? After new Domalger coupling rods etc….
Moin, last week avoid front axle made new… so coupling rods, push rods, heads are only 2 years old etc… so the full program inlk Domlager… Drives and steers and brakes again a lot better… I noticed that the saddle is firmly on the rear right, I changed, to the left still floods Well what I actually wanted to do is that now at speeds around 100km/h a fold occurs in the steering system, that was before, however, even at lower speeds and more extreme… so you can see correctly how the steering wheel moves from left to right… and back again… but it remains in the track… The track has of course also been remeasured, that’s clear. At the beginning of the summer, I have quite exactly washed the matured brake test bench also showed that left and right are pulling evenly at the brake wheel, so no significant difference What can it be now? Does anyone know that?
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How can I check my airbags?
Hello, since yesterday I have my “new” Volvo 850 TDI. When I drove home to the yard I looked over the dashboard. Since much then I looked up the cover of the passenger airbag. Their edges stand up. If I light up the ignition instead of all the bulbs. Only I can’t detect/find an airbag light. I’ve been looking for a long time here in the forum. It was said that it would have to burn an airbag light for a short while. That the car has defects like a defective wheel bearing, spinning starter, or it drips at the front right of the tub oil is all ok. I can also get the defective ABS. BUT with the airbags I don’t understand any fun. Also with a 1000 € Volvo not. Therefore my two questions: How can I find out if I still have airbags? How can I check if they would work? Can someone help me?
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Brake system – grinding and quipping during braking
Hello, have read here on the page just from the Volvo at Ebay with 1 million km. and am very impressed. I am curious if we can hold our V70 so long. So far he does not make himself bad, I must confess to the joy. But he also has only 200 tkm. Up to 1 million is still a lot of air. But now to my great worry, the brake system. She grinds and squeaks while braking since I have mounted the summer tyres at Easter. The first thought, the brake pads have not been confirmed. I had taken off a wheel of the VA again to check the pads,although I had looked at the pads at Easter,they are in my opinion, they still have 5-6 mm covering.What is it then? Maybe the age? They have been exchanged with the brake discs and have run 70 tkm. I will also look at the brakes of the HA once Greeting Luis
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Wet slices in moose
Hej together, our 1995’s 850-second wheel is for a few days in the rain an evil wet biotope, on all the windows? Great deal with the windshield and the side windows in front. But even in the rear, the glazing is permanently humid. From the ventilation, comes also on maximum set very little airflow and the ventilation that comes there is damp warm. I can not wipe as fast as directly again everything is strongly fogged. Only a narrow strip, about the first 5-10 centimetres of the windshield above the ventilation grid, remains dry. It is not wet, it is wet and yes, it smells even when I use the ventilation instead. Driving in the rain is so impossible, except that all windows are completely open. What else is striking is that in frost above the dashboard parts of the windshield is light and from the inside lightly iced. And when the ventilation is busy, “twishing” something. Is that the engine/the wave from the indoor fan is completely open?