Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin together, I have the problem with my 850er 2.5 20V that it starts when starting especially at low speed (starting in traffic jam or stalling traffic) properly shakes, shakes and stutters. only when it turns over the 2000er brand the problem is not and if I let the clutch grind extremely. It has already been installed a lot new with the car: What is still missing is the coolant temperature sensor. Interesting is also (no idea if it belongs together) if i ch with 100 On the train ride then the engine does not really stutter but when I drive with 120 / 130. Then the whole car is at vibrating and it comes partly lame out ́m Quark. Has it again the speed he needs he pulls like sow. The workshop is simply overwhelmed and wants to take the car apart completely to just look. Of course I didn ́t want that. What obviously is the upper engine storage defective (the holding arm and the small rod the I hope you can help me there or at least point a direction in which I should look so much.. Then maybe I’m not an arm before an error has been found.

Hello first to all. Was not long here but bought me again a Volvo. Is a 850 TDI 220 tkm run and automatic. All top. But now to my problem. I wanted to buy me 2 new tires because the car has to get a new main inspection. There are Persu rims mounted. On the rims are 205/50 R 16 87 W. But also on the spare wheel of 1996, that is still the first. In appearance the rims are unfortunately not registered. But according to the release of Volv o must be mounted 88 H tires. Axles he has yes 1090 kg. A tire in 87 has a load capacity of 545 kg. Isn’t that enough? The thing is that the car never had 88 he tires on it. Have talked to the previous owner, since the car is 1 hand. MFG Tillmann

Hello, now our V70I has also caught it. The ABS light is constantly shining. The wheel sensors are all ok, so it can only be on the ABS control unit. We suspected the often mentioned contact problem and wanted to solder the corresponding contacts. We found a small guide for this too, but unfortunately it was different. We started to expand the control unit and were pretty scared. We expected a dry clean contact order. We found completely filthy contacts. Both on the connector and on the control unit. An undefined broth swiped around the contacts of the control unit. Water was probably not. It was too viscous. Now the real question: Can someone tell us what that is? Photos of it are attached. Are there capacitors in the control unit that can burst? Or are there any in the plug housing? Can one still save the control unit according to your opinion or does it have to go to the trash? Thank you for your help already. kaninchen2

Now I’ve heard it again on a ride today, and it’s not funny. I have a polter or impact noise in right curves. It only occurs at (higher) country road speeds (80-100 km/h) and only in relatively long, evenly driven right curves, with already clear centrifugal force (but of course still below the border area, I ride Volvo-like saddled). It doesn’t occur in city traffic and e.g. also not on highway-up/downhills or in shorter distances. There are several single strokes to be heard, about every half second to one second, but not rhythmically and apparently not correlated with engine or wheel speed. Since it occurs rarely overall and is not predictable, I still couldn’t check whether it goes away while taking gas or braking. Someone’s an idea?

Hello dear MotorTalk Friends I have a Volvo C70 Bj: 1999 2.5 T engine code B5254T. This one had a motor damage. The engine was replaced. After done work the engine jumped on and I made a test drive. During the test drive the car lost power (strong jerking and no speed ) until I finally stayed down. Vehicle read out: camshaft sensor defective. This replaced and deleted error. Engine still jumped on but then went off and jumped off the ni The following things have already been checked: – petrol pump – throttle valve – injectors – ignition time – fuses – spark plugs Now I am finished with my Latin. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? For any kind of help I am grateful edit by boisbleu: Photo deleted due to personal data

855 GLE Automat, 10V, EZ 11/1993, 165 TKm Hello experts, my hydro ́s are clacking longer and louder after the morning cold start. So far it took only a few hundred meters, now I have to drive approx. 5 KM, until the clacking stops. Did the last oil change before 250 KM times at a chain (witzer). Supposedly Liqui-Moly with man filter. Can it lie at the wrong oil filter?. OIL is 10 W 40 (I always drive) Thinner OIL drives the oil consumption strongly up. Who has ever had new hydros installed and what did it cost? Greetings Friedi

Hey again, I have a loud noise when starting up. Since I can describe it hard here times a video which is very similar to my noise, is sometimes louder and more intense and sometimes eats hardly there. Mostly when it is cold it is more intense I have the feelinghttp://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9LsqA9oiuKY It is always only when starting up, very loud and you feel a rubbing in the clutch pedal. With tightened hand brake and clutch the noise does not come. Can the clutch make such noises?

Hello again! After I also had the problem of the restless engine run (sometimes with misignitions?), I gave my ’95 850 10v a new set of spark plugs. Which was probably also urgently needed! They partly looked not good at all.. Engine runs round again, so everything is good. Oil consumption is still high, but so far I had the VSD in suspicion.. Blue clouds and so.. To the current thing: One of the spark plugs was very black and it was oil below a and the candle. I then wiped out what was going on and it looked like the oil from above (cylinder head gasket?) would run into the shaft. Not from the very top! It still accumulates some oil there, which I now do more or less regularly.. Now the question: cylinder head gasket? valve shaft gasket? And are there flat cost estimates on your part for such repairs? Was already via SuFu on the way, but the listed cases wanted to fit somehow not t.. Best regards, your Nico Achso, in the appendix a picture of the situation immediately after the first opening before the CC change.

Since some people had asked, I wanted to open a new thread for the insulation of the 850er or V70. Up to now, it was insulated by me: – The front doors Here it makes itself positive especially in the sound of the loudspeakers. I have the V70 speakers inside and these connected almost with the door plate. Thus the “acoustic short circuit” is minimized and finally comes out a bit of bass. Photos I can after if necessary after. Unfortunately I forgot to make some. – Di The rear flap Here it makes itself quite noticeable on the highway. It seems a little quieter in the car, but it seems to be really effective only with further insulation. Here I am still trying. @Fonojet has solved this probably so far best with its V70. – The wheel chute was insulated by me today. It looked so unstable that I have damped it two-layered. A good test is simply knocking against. What this has done I can judge later. To-Do: – The rear doors Theoretis You can still dam the floor and the roof, which may come later.

Hello municipality. I plan to buy a Volvo 850 Combi. It is a 2.5 ltr.10 valve with 250000 km total running power, EZ. 08/1995. I already had an identical 96er with great satisfaction in.Used, but it was cold-deformed recently by a driving beginner. The new one is well preserved, 2nd hand, well maintained, but suddenly no longer starts, without visible reason. i.e., battery is ok, mass connections also, according to previous owner. He taps on them ignition plate. Do you have alternative causes? The car is 400 km away and I don’t want to go there for nothing. Cost 450,- with 8 months rest – Tüv. Gruss Micha