Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello ! I have a question today about the expansion of an old standard installed radio. Since there the whole lamp should say goodbye I want to install there a new ( used but ok ). Now I got to hear from jmd that you have to disconnect the battery before the expansion otherwise after error messages appear ( zb airbag control etc ) .. the radio would probably also be a kind of control unit … sounds logical for me since also the display for the immobilizer da dri As a replacement radio, I would also have an original as I said …. I don’t usually know that you have to disconnect the battery … Ev knows of you if this is already the case with my year of construction..? I don’t have a chance for error messages and also not for having to have to be friendly because of such a dödel …. Thank you in advance ….

Moin Together, I have a pretty heavy problem with the steering. In the middle position the steering is so easy that it feels like steering play. When steering then a sudden strong resistance, the steering is extremely difficult to walk around then again easily at the next moment. Independent of the steering impact. In addition, you can feel in the steering something mechanical, like a broken bearing. The problem exists for some time sporadically but extremely since yesterday. What did I do: Where yesterday the steering wheel was replaced and turned the steering wheel in the stand with the engine switched off to get to the screws. Because of a missing “thin” Torx I couldn’t get any further. Battery jammed, started, steering extremely heavy and servo pump made noises. Today into the company and off to the stage. During the ride the steering wheel was found to be slightly crooked. On the stage then with standing engine the steering went rough, with running engine significantly better. changed, built everything together again and removed the white ring at the bottom of the rubber hole, cleaned and greased. Had the lower cross joint still in suspicion and greased it, but when driving home the problem was not solved. Better though, but not gone. I’m baffled to be honest! I found some threads that describe a similar problem but the solutions are missing. From steering gear to dome bearings to moved auxiliary frame everything is included. I would almost exclude the steering gear. But store auxiliary frame on suspicion, cathedral warehouse, cross joint on suspicion is already quite an effort! Does anyone know the problem? Do you have tips for me? Puh, fairly long text and hopefully reasonably understandable greetings from S-H and best thanks in advance chriss

Hello, if we were here in the Mercedes W210/S211 forum, the users would laugh to themselves But luxury problems are something nice, right? -My `99 V70 TDI is the rustiest one I know, because he has a few small spots, among others in the rear wheel boxes. To those I have put to rest today with sandblasting gun and 2K epoxy resin primer. Mostly I only had to radiate loose lacquer layers and zinc oxide away. In two places, where to strengthen the rear seat. On the outside these sheets are pointed, but it was only possible with sandblasting fast+grundlich. I used about 10 kg. Beam material. The thick, closed porous layer EP819 is in principle already quite alone “viable” in terms of corrosion protection, nevertheless I make still a layer of plastic body (Teroson Record or so) on it, and then for the optics car color or the next best dark blue colour, which my paint rack gives. Then come the Radha wessels back in, and I don’t need to waste any more thought on rust in the wheelboxes the next 2-3 winters. Greetings Chris

Hey HO! I have a problem, and that is a problem in the search of an air mass/volume sensor for my 850 elk. So as 1st place Ebay, I look for the sensor for a 2.5 liter engine. He finds plenty of, BUT now comes the OWNLY question: It is always only the 20 valve 2.5 with 170Ps given, not the 2.5 10V with 140Ps… I am looking stupid ^^ Is that the same sensor I could take too? Can a remedy be found, because nac the key number(9101/495 ) is the sensor I want to have also nowhere specified Mfg, Eric R.

HALLO nice community, I saw for the first time the Abs lamp light on my V70 Bj 98 2 liters. At the next Strart it went out again I read in the forum that it is mostly the Abs control unit which has error, soldering points which are broken. My questions: Where can I have the control unit repaired if necessary (experiences from your repair shops) What does such a device can be developed well or ? Maybe a link to it ? Or do I not have to worry yet make light for the first time ? Thanks again for your help.

Hello together, I would like to buy a C70 convertible and need a few tips / hints from you. If my first Volvo, therefore, have no experience with the brand. But I am really excited about the timeless design of the vehicle. It is a 2.4T from the year 2001. After first review the vehicle makes a quite good impression. However, I noticed the following things: – last service was 2011 (so due) – timing belts have to be changed – Brakes at the front are close to wear limit – track rod head at the front left has easy play – left front wheel grinds at full impact in the wheelhouse (there are original 17 inch Volvo BBS rims mounted) What workshop costs do I have to reckon with if I have to repair all this and are there any other points I should pay attention to? Hope you can help me. Thank you. Greeting racer1590

hej volvo850 1996 450000km after 100km autobahn began the engine to stutter the cooling water indicator fell back to 0, after a step on the gas pedal he ran again, when he fell under 3000 turns again stutter. in a construction site I had to stop briefly, the engine went out. could not be started any more. with the help of the workers we pushed him to the edge.after15 min. started he jumped on.under constant stutters I managed to get home,the cool water indicator moved s I no longer stayed on 0. During the ride the engine was not hot, cool water was full cause??? with mfg from sweden Dieter remains healthy

Hello guys, because my Volvo Kombi 850 1992 (is a bit opaque, built in 1992, first registration 1994 ?) thanks to the forum again runs the next problem pushes itself into the foreground. The ABS “rupt” while braking …. somehow front That started very slowly and gets worse, the TÜV did not disturb it. You notice that only if you drive slowly and brake otherwise it brakes easily. Unfortunately, the “pick-out” does not work anymore, shows still digitally … but does not start t. The ABS control unit is already an replaced used part and has been in it for 2 years. Theoretically, I could try to exchange the ABS sensors with my English manual Makes sense ? Greeting Robert

Moin dear municipality, if Skandix there should be 2 same relays for the radiator fan per car. Can you tell me where the 2nd is. Number 1 is right above the radiator fan. Thanks and greeting Sven

I’m sorry if I have to ask this question now. I’m kind of out of the question. I haven’t had to do anything about the car for a long time. It’s just driving. Now I need new brake discs and pads for the front. My car doesn’t have any upgrades to 16″, although I still have the holders in the basement, brand new. In general, it’s about the TÜV. I think the brakes are being faulted this year. If I don’t have the 16″ variant to build, where I need longer hoses, the standard When it comes to 16″ it would be Ø302mm. Then at the end avoid choice:https://www.ebay.de/itm/133637273362?… What do you think about the discs? Does one know and can possibly recommend coverings? I would like to have the Powerdisc from ATE, which is only available in 16″…but I don’t know if my time is enough to change it all.