Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, have a V70-1 Bj.2000 engine B5244S2 245Tkm. Only when braking the car pulls slightly to the left and I have to steer back. On the brake level no serious difference from left and right was measured in the brake effect front and rear. Axjal and external joint steering were made on both sides last year incl. axle measurement. No problem afterwards. Cross handlebars, shock absorbers, bushings, stabistangs is still all original. I think it’s due to one of these things. But you don’t. But it’s also because of the habit. Where do you start best? It’s best not at the cheapest but at the most sensible. Does anyone know what can be the most meaningful? VG

Hello dear talker, with my Volvo V70 tank cover lock, central lock and starter have failed at the same time. The ADAC then put on my car and it started. The hammer method on the starter did not work. No external start cable/bridge with battery either. At the next workshop they said the starter was broken. I think there might be another problem with the electrics. microswitch ?? power supply ? Maybe someone here has a guess/experience. Love GREAT and thank you Michael

Because of the great demand here the instructions to “automate” more window lifters. For each automatic direction one needs a relay from 850 or S40, V40.Auto Up driver side – remove door board (beautiful work pays attention to the clipping costs almost 2€ per piece). – Terminal the window lifter control module as well as plug for the tank unlocking and mirror adjustment. – The window lifter module has 3 plugs, 1 small white, 1 large white and a grayer. – From the large white plug the following Cable required: — Blue cable from position 2 (are numbered) — Blue-Green cable Position 3 — Black cable Postion 1 Blue cable from the AutoDown relay is connected together with Blue cable Pos 2 Black cable from the AutoDown is connected together with Black cable Pos 1 Cuts the Blue-Green cable through so that there are enough cables left at both ends. The end of what goes into the FH unit is connected to the Yellow cable from the AD relay, the other end to the Green cable. All DIN and ISO conform Insulation Auto Up & Down Passenger – Detach door board – Terminal control unit. – Identify the following cables when plugging from the FH unit: — Blue on A1 — White on A5 for Auto Down — Green on A4 for Auto Up. Blue cable of the relay is connected to Blue on A1 Black (mass) from the relay could connect you to one of the many screws from the FH motor. For Auto Down, cut the White cable and connect yellow from the relay to the end piece what In the FH module goes green with the other end. For Auto Up cuts through the Green cable and connects yellow from the relay to the end piece which goes into the FH module, green with the other end.Auto Up & Down back There are 2 ways the “easy way” and the “hard way” Easy Way – Door board down – From the FH switch the following cables are used: — Grey-Red Pos 3 is connected to blue from the relay — Red-White from Pos 5 for Auto-Down — Green from Pos 4 for Auto Up — Black from the relay again on one side r Screw from the FH Motor. Where is the hacking on the Easy Way? Is it clear what’s going on And the automatic only works as long as the rear FH are not blocked from the front with the tilt switch. The tap the power supply on the grey-red cable and puts the relay out of action.Hard way Well then you have to pull a strip from the front into each door with appropriate cross-section (1.5 mm2 at least) The blue cable is connected to this cable by the relay. ay. Have fun at the Relais Hamstern Greeting Cristian EDIT: when looking at the schematics again, I noticed that the FH will probably not work at the back when they stand on OFF because the relay breaks the circuit. I will soon install it and report on how it is going to be.

hello fangemeinde, my elch I bought used in dez.2020 – accident-free from 1st hand. cautiously “dicked in”, as he already indicated 362 ́km on the clock. so I did not notice strong wind noises and a bright whistle from 120km/h. today a test drive up to approx. 180km/h. had thought the sliding roof and the cut with adhesive tape glued tightly – the bright whistle is gone. only from 120km/h on very strong disturbing wind noises can be heard. sub sub I have the impression that these are created on the side of the passenger. all door and window seals are as new, the ventilation nozzles were closed during the test. the “solar protection roof” under the sliding roof does not bring any changes. who has an idea where these sounds could come from and how I get them away.

Hello guys, I’m going crazy… After replacing the engine and gearbox on my Volvo 850 GLT LS, my cruise control doesn’t work anymore. It was already in the workshop, but they couldn’t help me there. Car drives and switches super. As far as no other recognizable problems. Engine had to be replaced due to engine damage, gearbox was immediately replaced prophylactically, as I got a good offer for engine and gearbox. A similar engine type B5254 S was installed, only the year of construction is different. New engine is from BJ 98, before was a BJ 91 engine. Are there any differences in cruise control? LG

I have a very strange phenomenon at my 99 v70 Lpt. The left abs sensor is new, ABS ECU has been repaired by a company 3 weeks ago. The abs/tracs and motor light are from which were previously with the defective abs control unit on the light. That’s already a positive effect, only sets no matter at what speed when driving !!!! And also when braking the abs constantly. So a ride is of course not really good and especially dangerous, what could that still be? More sensors or wreaths to deposit without a mistake? Has been read out in this regard several times at Volvo and the ABS light stays out too. Hope you have an idea

Moin, My cooler is a bit (unfortunately more and more) leaking. I fill up a little something and bring the moose to the workshop on Monday. Antifreeze mixed and off to the car. That’s a bit difficult at the moment, because they have torn away our access road to tell us then that the new building will probably become nothing this winter … Door open, grip to the bonnet unlocking and SCHNICK ! Bowdenzug torn. forty-seven-syllable Seemansfluche murmuring back and whistling back and w When I had the cover down and meanwhile felt 1385 people explained that I didn’t want to steal the car first, secondly I know about what I’m doing and thirdly I agree that it’s actually too cold for something like that, I saw the shearing. In the red handle there is a metal pin on which the soul of the Bowden train was attached. And it’s torn off from this pen. So not pulled out or so, but ripped off. And now the question: I’ve got the But this bowden train is not found as a spare part. Is there a single one? If so where? How complicated is that change? I still have to get the hood open if I pull the pliers on the bowden train. Still something funny at the end. I was on the road with a buddy the other day. He sat in the passenger seat and told him that he also wanted to buy a car. The Volvo is not bad nice big and also robust but too cumbersome. and free distance) without words times the brush pressed through. Silence up to 180 km/h and then an interested “What did you put down for the iron?” from the passenger seat … Well, he didn’t hear that slurping in the tank

Hi, look for someone from Trier/Saarbrücken who changes the gear at the VDO instrument cluster, of course for payment.

Hello had installed my new heat exchanger today. System filled and had to find out how afraid the quick coupling is leaking on the injection wall. It’s like it is, but it has to be done. 1.) How do I get the coupling apart? 2.) I further consider whether it makes sense to connect the pipes from the heat exchanger directly to the pipes from the engine compartment. Or, by chance, someone has already done it this way.

Servus with each other, please need your help. Vehicle: V70 l 2.5 LPT (B5254T). Today I gave my daily a new battery. Battery out, new battery in. First Plus connected, then Minus. See there, it starts again, but … … service light flashes, tacho, DZM and BC without function. Can someone tell me here what this can be (even without a glass ball). Don’t think that you have to learn the battery at the V70 l, or? It also runs quite normally. Already in front of you. I would like to thank you for your helpful feedback.