Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Moin municipality! Yesterday I had time to deal with the moose again. And I did not find very pleasant things. And it is my guess after the suspension/support of the bumper left. It is quite rusty. There you just had to blow and that has already been disintegrated. My questions: can I fix this alone and with the help of my dad? Next: has jmd. times a guide or can describe how this is done? Skandix to the mount only found here: http://www.skandix.de/…/ Is this the right one? Data about our moose in the signature. Looking forward to answers, volvo850xx PS: I’ve read something about it before, but I can’t find the thread anymore.

Hy, I have an original sport Nivo chassis (Nivomate) in my car. I renewed this about 3 – 3.5 years ago. But as I wrote in forgotten Fred, it is a bit too tight, not hard but too tight. Since I have a load eel with which I carry heavy things anyway, the Nivomates are pure luxury in driving behavior. Now I think to install a screw suspension (best of all turned up so that it stands original and inconspicuously there. Have now looked at some , and often you can also be lucky with a 400th chassis (new NoNameCompanies also want to be on the market and have probably built what good?), but I think this is rare. Now I ask myself (since some always mean KW or nothing) if you really notice the difference between Variant 1.2 or 3 or need ? Which one of you has one inside and how is it (e.g. with channel lid, in winter, ect.) ? I thank you beforehand !

Servus on all sides, I have already read in other threads that one can simply determine whether the vacuum pump causes the flapping by stepping on the brake. When ́s it gone, it was the vacuum pump. Now the question: does this also apply to the automatic machine? The brake pedal also acts on the gearbox. lg -helmut

Hy, this year was where a threadele about the stabilizer and its rubbers in here, but found it no longer via “search”…? Anyway, so it was said that the turbos all like to vibrate on the track, which one does not get away with looking for do. Someone changed the rod rubber, another like the whole Stabi, and it should have improved. Now I wanted to do this too, and the workshop got the rubbers. Just bell down and the 2 part new gum on it = Wun All Stabi out, and they thought they were just rusted and they put them down, then they see that the delivered ones don’t fit, and now they’re the original part…. Pustecakes, which the parts are vulcanized on it, and the Stabi is only completely from the friendly=joy & hurrah…… Not only the wraps with the turbo, and that a steering cuff as well as a stop buffer for the rear spring cost a fortune (about 50./stk.), and this is nothing in the replica, this is the next I’m talking about the front bar of a V70 1 year 11/99 2435ccm 142KW 2WD Thanks

Dear Volvo friends, I have often read helpful information here – thank you to all the good hints here – but now I have a problem that it is not possible to settle satisfactorily even after several workshop visits. Out of the blue the diesel went out during the last vacation, but then jumped again and also stuccoed more than 300km back home. At the external check of the machine still on site I have a diesel leak in the return line of the Einsp I had hoped that this was the cause. At the following workshop visit line renewed and everything went out first. Then he went out again after approx. 15KM spontaneously – error code said: fuel quantity faulty – next time: fuel quantity control faulty … diagnosis of the workshop: probably the pump is defective(?) – exchange may not be worthwhile – with the old car with 326TKm … Long research on the Internet has me suspect everything possible – but I should let Vo… read out the errors more precisely, then I would be smarter. Since the same thing: probably pump defective, 1500.- without installation, the next please … I drove completely down with it home and decided to continue researching and just continue driving to see how sluggish the pump can be: My results so far: it consumes 6.3 L as always, accelerates normally (up to 3000U/min – I have never kicked the old machine) and goes – > Before going out for the first time, I drove over a track with a washboard, then after five smooth kilometers it went out, so I first examined all the plugs, contacts or loose parts and found nothing. Where should I continue with the search, the ideas go out and I can’t believe that a defective pump is working so “normal” and then it is turned off. I hope that one of you also scho n experienced and can help me on the jumps – I don’t like to give a nice, though old Volvo little on the scrap – just because the rep is not worth it… Thank you in advance

The priest will soon be able to carry his black patient to his grave. Today, as usual, he rolled from WOB to Hanover very relaxed with 130km/h, when I had to find out in Hanover that my black brick smelled massively after burnt oil. On a supermarket parking lot I saw in the rear-view mirror in the light of the headlights of another car, that it smokes properly out in idle. I don’t feel like it anymore. Track rods are also gruff and should be done “quickly” tomorrow. Now just before Christmas and the upcoming ski holiday still a turbo or engine damage, I don’t need that. It’s striking that obviously the oil fill cover is no longer dense and oil is always on top of the valve cover. I take off the decorative cover now and look at the candles. That stinks again… t runs quite quietly and inconspicuously. No dropouts and even performance are there. In the past there was always an oil drop on the tube for the compressed fresh air. I have the hope that it is “only” the compressor who said goodbye. To get a butcher for a swap engine, I have no time nor desire. Shit. The Volvos always went so well. That’s the first patient who is so right for wrinkles and gra ue hair cares. Cheers.

Hello, I have a 144 ps, 2.5 gasoline/automatic of 96 with 180000 km and a big problem. The engine runs in empty run a bit unround, it vibrates in time and in between it sounds as if it is going out, but it lives up again and vibrates in this moment. this between vibrating you notice clearly in the inside room and annoyed. Speed is however constant and does not wobble, whereby I think that the even in the warm state is a little too high and maybe it helps to find fault, which lies between 900 and 1000 rpm! Otherwise the car drives well and you have no problems, top speed 196 km/h with automatic, consumption always around 10 liters, also on the highway with 160 km/h cruising speed. Made: Oil trap cleaned, hoses renewed from the oil trap, vacuum hoses renewed, hoses of the intake tract renewed, Drosel flap cleaned, Kat New, end pot New! Furthermore I have a question: at exactly 2000 rpm br Is my car really loud, but only at 2000, under and above it is quiet, can it lie on the new cat or is something else defective? Greetings

Hello, since I am an enthusiastic V70 owner since today I would like to introduce myself and the Volvo briefly. Come from the area Weinheim. Picked up the car today from the dealer. I can not recommend this dealer. Vehicle was dirty and placed with 1.5 bar on all tires. Shortly before handover came a call “could not wait, key lies on the rear wheel” Did today first clean the car and some scratches out. Urgent to renew are the dampers. In addition, there was only one single key, second key is also ordered. Timing belts are also urgently to be renewed since from 2008, even if only 70000km ran. The car is simply great, alone the starting noise… Had to start for my 5 year old son several times in a row today and give gas, this was enthusiastic. Unfortunately, the previous owner neglected the car extremely, the attached TÜV report speaks volumes. The sentence “Korro “I’m a little afraid of sion/rusting on the underbody, frames and attachments.” Here’s another photo, tomorrow in the sun more will follow. Be sure to get annoyed with some questions. The first: how to hell do I put the rear headrests higher? These snap back again and again.

Moin Moin my dear friends, I have already used the SuFu but did not find a satisfactory answer to my question. My problem is this: On cold engine my car has speed fluctuations in idle, it varies between 800-950 revolutions, it does so until it is really warm, i.e. about 10-15 km. On warm engine it does not do it. What has already been done against the speed fluctuations or is new: -Lambdasonde new -DK clean t -Zündkerzen neu -Motor sprayed with brake cleaner, but no change in speed What would your tips be that I could check next? Errors in the FS are not stored. I would like to check the DK again because the in the V70 yes Kaka should be, how do I do it best? With a tester? If so, which? What values should come out of it? Further it could be the idle controller? If yes, would it not have to cause speed fluctuations on warm motor? It acts around a V70 I 2.4 140hp with 5 gear Aut EZ 2000 Oh yes, I almost forgot, he has a low cracker than if it would come from the hydros, maybe there is something known or has to do with my problem? I thank you very much for your great help!!!!! Gruss Toni

The 2,4T likes to destroy the upper motor support bearing….at least you need one every 2 years. Whether it is due to the “toll” OT quality or not, I have got such a Kunsstoffteile, and that is built in. Should be so super toll. (Well with the transverse handlebars, which is not the case, rather the absolute garbage) Now after about a week I think, what here load changes always knocks. And see as on the pictures that the part slips back and forth. I can’t pull the first one, because there is also a metal/support and discharge roller/hull in between. What now? A crown ring on the left and right, will not work wonders. Somehow funny, that this slips over? Wanted to look at the other engine bearings, but unfortunately you don’t see them so great. It’s called, that you can open a lid on the passenger side, in the wheel box and there you see one. No lid found there?