Category: Volvo 850, S70, V70, V70 XC, C70 Forum

Hello, I have been driving a C70 N Coupé BJ 98 automatic since December. The car is basically running super, gearbox and engine are inconspicuous. But I have to look for the cause of a noise to exclude a possible (future) defect. It is as follows: The car is standing in the garage and is cold. If I drive the car out of the garage and then do it, there is nothing strange to hear. If I go then, it is starting at a speed of about 40km/h e It doesn’t sound metallic, rather rubber-like. I can’t say exactly whether it’s speed-dependent or speed-dependent. I would say at the moment, it’s more speed-dependent. In a state, the noise is not heard, only during the ride. However, the noise disappears after 2-3 minutes of driving and only comes up again when the car is standing and getting cold. The workshop thinks it’s due to the brakes that are due soon. d has no other explanation. Since the car is driving without any problems, I should first continue driving and if the brakes have been made check whether it continues to occur. Please check the video once. From second 14 it is to be heard, from second 40 it changes something. But I don’t know if the transmission has switched, or if I have slowed down a bit.https://youtu.be/J0eO8eqpqcM If you lead me, I can also try something to narrow down the cause, but I’m not a screwdriver and can’t change timing belts or V-belts or relax.. If you have Job’s messages, ask me to sit down first! Thanks and advance and always good ride, Christian

Moin Together, I want to give the existing engine the same model. The old one needs a general overhaul. All Simmering oil, timing belts are due and see what else appears. The “new” only got a new timing belt and WaPu 3 years ago and 20000km and is close to the transmission except for Simmering crankshaft. Oil trap is also quite new. My question is whether the old control unit can stay. The “new” engine has a control unit with a different name. are attached. Of course I have bad luck again that I still have to change the manifold. The existing engine has the compensator firmly on the manifold, the other one needs the one on the cat. At least for later the advantage that I can install everything on the exhaust. Krummers are there for all variants. With engine replacement the gearbox should remain in it. Are there tricks how to get the engine out the easiest? I think the gear bearing still has to be solved so that you can install the noc h lightly tilted to better separate the engine from the gearbox. Will the assembly run the same way? Greetings, Maddin

Good morning to everyone, I already tried the search function to my question, but always only found something with BPR. Following facts, a week ago he simply went out during the ride without sign and did not let himself start for minutes (starter turned and he shrugged again and again briefly) after a while he started again as if nothing had been, just managed to get home “2 km” and he died again. Then I ordered the BPR 103 at Skandix the next a day arrived and which I also installed immediately. Previously “so 1 week in which he ran without problems” again the same but this time he immediately started the engine warning light with. Again several start attempts with which he also ran sometimes (irround speed Rhythmic 500-900-500 etc.) as long as one did not step on the gas. PS distributor cap, fingers, spark plugs, air mass meter as well as the BPR 103 are new. I hope you can do something with my data. Oh yes is a 95 OBD1 ausb left box A jack 2 makes apart from one after plugging in glimmering diode Nothing thanks already in advance and good start to the Monday.

Hi people. Since it’s cold again early I ask myself the question why the ventilation is only so lukewarm. Outside temperature -3 degrees , inside vlt. 10 degrees , motor to 90 degrees . The air conditioning automatic stands at 24 degrees , the blower on automatic . The ventilation should now really bring power , but it püstst so lukewarm that you don’t notice much . What is this?The interior filter is new . When I set to manually the blower puffs plentifully .

Hello dear, again a new problem I hope that it is only the balancing tank. In the last 2 weeks I have observed that I have creeping coolant loss; then I checked again and again and saw that after the ride coolant was in the edge of the balancing tank and small puddles were visible on the ground. Yesterday I had to refill about 0.5 -1 liters Just arrived at home, I saw already when getting out drop in the carpor t. The balance tank was quite under pressure and the cooling liquid pressed out quite easily even after switched off the engine. However, I also saw that the container has apparently deformed, the lid after turning up and turning on is wrong… (see photos below ) and yes, I screwed it properly on again I have ordered a new container and a new lid at first. Will I be able to replace it as a layman??? f Your feedback,… Thank you! Greetings Ela

Moin Elchgemeinde, have a question about the right engine bearing Volvo 850 2.5-10V, 106kw, EZ 4/96, chassis no. is 244xxx, i.e. >155159. Ask me for a long time why the elk motor vibrations transfer quite strongly into the inside of the car. Engine bearings were changed ALL 2012 at approx. 300Tkm in a free workshop, since about 55Tkm driven (as far as I remember all the bearings of Ruville). Recently I saw that the hydro bearings were changed at the front and back during installation. I have changed, vibrations still there, no noticeable change. Can the hydro bearings have suffered due to the swapped installation? Liquid leakage is not recognizable at all. Recently when changing the coupling rod, a look at the right motor bearing was taken. Is this the right or is it still in order? Thank you and greeting, Jusch

Moin moin, tomorrow we go for the test drive of a C70 Cabrios “Collection” with 2.4T, automatic, EZ 10/2004, 94000km. On board is everything you need (seat heating, cruise control, 901, E-seat and RTI (unfortunately?) etc.). Color combi is titanium with brown leather. Have read here already rough, what matters. I agree with the dealer in principle already, it depends now only on the Proefahrt. My open questions: Is it enough for the engine Super or does it have to be Plus? Would E10 be released? Are Windscho tts available (I’m not sure if there is one). If so, what does a used one cost over the thumb? Is there any software for the RTI halfway up-to-date or can I check it off in advance? Of course, I’m grateful for all the tips! Thank you in advance!

Hello everyone, the Volvo V 70 I of a good friend loses oil since the latest time. I looked at it once and found out: KGE is dense, a really disgusting slime, which pulls up into the throttle flap, the engine works with overpressure and you can see it not least on the standing oil around the ignition lines. under the vehicle it does not look better. The increased pressure, according to my guess, caused the shaft seal between the engine and transmission to leak. Between engine u nd Gearbox stands the oil and drips nicely on the ground. That the KGE with oil trap has to be renewed is so far clear, I have the parts already here. But I don’t know how to get to the shaft sealing ring between the engine and transmission. Unfortunately I find in the net no instructions for the expansion of the manual transmission with the Volvo V70 I. Since I have no lift myself and have to pay for it in a self-help workshop, which of course can be paid per hour, I want to know beforehand Can any of you help me? Thank you very much. I’m still uploading pictures of the candles, the area between the motor and the gearbox and the KGE.

Hello together. I am currently driving a Volvo 850 Built. 1996 automatic 2.5L 144 hp with almost 190.000 km on the clock. My problem is: For about a month I have the problem that the engine temperature is often too high for my taste, usually it stands at about 3 o’clock and then moves no more, unfortunately this is only the case with me on the highway. In the city with Stop and Go it rises to about 13:30 to 14 o’clock and sinks only with a few hundred meters of free drive Unfortunately, I can’t say exactly when it first occurred, but in recent times, thermostat, coolant sensor, cooling water and candles have come new. At the beginning of last year a new timing belt plus WaPu, which also definitely promotes. What I noticed is that since that time the radiator fan is no longer controlled. I made a DIY turn signal box for the pseudo OBD II, which I can also control the fan via the motor electrics. rt also so far, both stages can be tested normally. Only the fan does not work at high temperature, nor when using the air conditioning system, what it definitely did before. Now the question is: Is it possible that the suction motor cannot use the thermostat of the R or T5 (opens at approx. 87°C and that of the suction cup only at 92°C) and thus the flow is too fast and the water is not sufficiently cooled and then heat points collect? I have already tested the temperature sensor. The fan starts at the highest level and runs three minutes after the ignition is switched off. The motor lamp also lights up with the Lambda symbol. Engine temperature indicator in the instrument cluster remains unchanged. Maybe someone knows what it can be ??? Have measured everything I can find, resistance from the temperature sensor sinks, the warmer the water becomes. Relay works and also has voltage. Control line from the control unit also has 12V on mass and has passage.

I recently added an OBD I + II power adapter. One like this: OBD adapter it can probably also read the old cars looks very clear in the software just how I now get cheaply to the Volvo adapter for the flashbox in the software stands I should use the cable F.V.V OBD (SV10481) and the power cable (SV10212) the power cable was a set of 8 so I need either a schematic (on which pin of the 16pin OBD socket I have to chase the signal on it) Or the cable has someone’s idea…