Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello with each other, tried to change the audio settings. Both Bass/Treble as well as Equalizer front/back somehow had no effect. (C70 Mj2007 High Performance) There is no lack of bass, rather on the contrary, it is a bit a lot. For that the heights can not be turned on. Does anyone know that? Do I do something wrong? Greeting Bulli

Hello everyone, I have the following problem with my C30 year 2008, if I put on the handbrake a little faster I can pull it through fully and have almost no braking effect. The colder the brake is the slower I have to put on. However, if I do slow, it is already extremely lax after 3-4 rests bomb-proof a little faster and nothing brakes. Who has observed or knows something similar. Thanks Thor

Hello, after my MKL light was lit at a traffic light and then strangled engine and read out as a “long-term fuel control” error, but despite the deletion of the fault memory shortly afterwards the MKL lighted up again, I assumed the air mass meter as a cause (see my post below). Now, when I looked through the engine compartment, I found that the oil measuring rod was only unplugged in its guide and that parts attached as photos were in the motor vehicle. I was able to identify the rubber part (photo 1-2) as a “windshield drainage”. Correct? Where does that go? The round lid (photo 3) fits perfectly to the round opening of the alternator on the side (photo 4). Does it belong there? Now my question: what was the cause of the blow-out of the oil measuring rod (the sudden abrasion after acceleration and full braking?) and was the result of the MKL lighting? What was the connection between the other loose parts? s oil measuring staff the only troubleshooting related to the MKL or is there a fundamental other error /cause and I am now just eliminating the symptoms? Thank you for your help!

Moin colleagues, I have now had the problem three times that my T5 indicates to me “Decreased engine power” . The power also goes back noticeably. Once it went away by itself after 40 sec, otherwise it was off after a few hours. I have the feeling it might have to do with moisture because it has rained in any case. Do you have an idea? Are there any plugs or cable connections that like to soak up? VIDA for error code diagnosis is ordered but not yet there… Greetings Bulli

Hello from Berlin! I am currently driving a nearly 17-year-old V40, from which I unfortunately have to separate. Now I have this car in mind:V50 The dealer is still repairing the damage to the front bumper or I pay less and let it do it here. It’s a US import, is there something to consider? He doesn’t have a checkbook, only some invoices from free workshops from the previous owner. TÜV/ASU gets it new from the dealer. According to the dealer, the vehicle should be tiptop. What do you think? I would be very grateful to you for your opinions, because it is not exactly “around the corner” from me to Mannheim. I know that nobody can give a remote diagnosis here, but unfortunately I have no experiences at V50. Thank you and greeting Ines

Hi, with our newest family member (C70 D5 MY08) something is wrong. Yesterday about 500km were driven and today about 25 km of city traffic. Then the warning light went on at once: “motor system maintenance required”. Power and engine run normal, external nothing to recognize. Last service was on 05.08, unfortunately in a free workshop (from the previous owner). Before the start of the journey, the oil level (with cold engine) was just below half. Previously with still warm engine (car was 40min), the oil level was Just about Max. Sounds like the well-known problem of oil dilution, doesn’t it? Can the ADAC read this out? In the engine compartment there’s a sticker where the correct oil level is on it, means that the car has got the update? Is it enough to drain the oil or better fresh oil? Greetings

Hello everybody, I’ve already read everything that has appeared here in the forum for the above mentioned topic. For me the following questions appear in the special case … My case: Two months ago acquired C70 MJ 2006 T5, 2.5, 220 hp, automatic with 152,000 km on the speedometer. Has covered the last four years only 4,000 km, otherwise stood in underground car parking. After the vehicle was warm, stronger vibrations can be felt from the front while accelerating, as well as noises at the steering lock. ag in both directions. Especially strongly uphill. After foot from the gas no vibrations. These symptoms have slowly become worse, now the car does not have to warm up at all and the vibrations also appear in lower speed ranges. Since a used car insurance is still in play, the time until repair has drawn endlessly, now I have an appointment next week for the exchange of both drive shafts in front in the local Volvo workshop. last week the two drive shafts were not available as spare parts at Volvo or in the accessories!! Is the C70 such an exotic now? The appointment for the exchange next week would therefore have almost burst and my nerves would have taken noticeably damage, since I now have no reliable vehicle for more than four weeks – while my reliable Golf IV with about 300,000 km continues with its new owner without complaint and cheerfully. This is why I found drive shafts in my own research here https://uleu.de and, as a private person, I compared and ordered the parts via chassis number by telephone. Right of return is granted. A friendly motor vehicle master a.D. strengthened me in the AW theory, since in his career he probably often encountered AW problems, especially with vehicles with long service life, if the Fzg. then plö I also trust the statements of the people in my workshop and feel well cared for there for years with the Mazda brand. But they also told me that they are 97% sure that it is the AWs, but there is also a residual risk that not. Now you read here also that it might be the engine bearings. Is there also for my C70 these “improved” engine bearings? Wouldn’t it be cheaper to exchange them if it were so or other The car for the AWs on both sides is at 1,800. The insurance takes over 1,000.- . As said … I am really a little at the end with my nerves. The car is great but the switch to Volvo is very, very stressful. Therefore it would be nice if someone still had an assessment on the subject. With thanks in advance, best regards Christian

Here’s a tip for those who want to connect their smartphone to the radio via Bluetooth, but who (like me) have the GROM solution too expensive. Briefly to the background: I had previously installed a Bluetooth adapter from Adapter-Universe in my C30 with high performance audio system, which had a good sound, but often failed (which is, of course, impractical, as it was at the back of the radio unit). Since the GROM solution was too expensive for me, I spent a while with it. In the meantime there is GROM but also a kind of replica called MR12Volt. Works very similar (i.e. music and hands-free function via Bluetooth with display on the radio display, operation via the steering wheel or the operating buttons in the waterfall console, USB port etc.) and can be installed invisibly. I ordered the good piece once fun for almost 140,- at Ebay and up to now it works perfectly. Not even MOST-security had to be turned off (w Of course I can’t say anything about the long-term stability yet. 140 Euro is still a bar of money, but there are many other possibilities not to expand the functions of the audio system. Maybe this helps one or the other here, if it has not been posted somewhere.

Hello Elcher! I’ve been having the following problem for a few months:http://sdrv.ms/Teuyy7 (If Firefox complains about Silverlight trying with Chrome) It’s not the oil trap (crankshaft housing) that was done last year. The LiMa was changed only 2 weeks ago, it can’t be. The timing belt was also made in the same train, including all belts, rollers, tensioners, pumps etc. Everything original at Volvo just. Since the fun last cost me a lot of money ha t, and the Volvo-Monteur meant this is the Lima that is working now, because the battery may not be fully charged, it stirs me up more and more every day… Can you guess from a distance what that could be?? Thank you for all relevant notes Edit: Oh yes, it’s a V50 T5 BJ 2005

Hello municipality, I have the following problem with my Volvo v50: We bought it a few days ago, since everything was still in order admittedly not the most beautiful but no error messages or similar. When we drove it back, we noticed when speeding up the speed fluctuates upwards without the car speeding up great. And once we completely accelerated it, above 4500 revolutions per minute nothing went like a power drop. But if the speed went up to the limiter. Does any of you have any idea what it might be? I read what about a broken clutch or brake fluid or back bearing? I’m still young and it’s hard to have a clutch replaced like this:/ Thanks in advance! ??? Pair of key data: Volvo v50 2.5 t5 2006 BJ 198000 kmh 220 hp manual transmission