Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

I need your help or tips again. It’s about my V50, 1.6D, year 2008, about 148.000 km. Recently I notice that it often regenerates. Often it means almost every 100 km and less. It jerks then and takes off badly gas. When reading with Torque the error is 2458, particles filter regeneration too long. When I notice this, I always drive until the “intake” temperature has dropped to about 40 degrees, at the same time the current consumption falls. I’m happy. He easily creates 190 km/h and has a consumption of about 7.5 / 5.5 liters (city / highway or overland). The Volvo gets all the maintenance at Volvo, the particulate filter has been in it since about 40,000 – also built in by Volvo. Now my question – why does it regenerate so often? Can I influence that? I usually drive city, usually at least 15 km. I am grateful for your tips. Greeting newbieneu PS – Can I drive on like this?

Hi, recently I am proud owner of a Volvo C30 D2 Bj 2012 with about 60000 km, and I love the car now However, I have a few questions about it, maybe one or the other one knows something about it So first of all to drive: If I have the Volvo standing in idle, you notice a quite vibration, especially on the steering wheel, is that normal? Not that it would bother me a lot, but I just want to know if everything is okay. Then I have to resist Is it true that from the D2 the fiter no longer has to be changed at 120000 km and that you no longer need an additive? at Pre-Facelift 1.6 D it was apparently so What would answer the second question would be a maintenance plan for the C30 D2, I wrote Volvo already an e-mail, but didn’t hear from them anymore. If someone has such a maintenance plan it would be really cool if the one could send it to me !

Hello to each other, I have grown with the C70 a beautiful convertible that fulfills my expectations in all matters. Unfortunately cloudy crackling noises of the cover the full driving pleasure. In the workshop, however, the roof was readjusted only with moderate success. Does any of you have advice for me ? Many greet from holders at the lake Ralf

Hello together, even if there was a similar topic here, my case is a little different and I would like to know if there are some clear clues about the cause: For a few weeks (I have the impression, since a service on the roof) the rear speakers of my premium sound system only sound like telephone speakers. Very “potty” and quite quiet. At the front I have fas when moving the fader (yes, surround and EQ and subwoofer is all out for testing) t the double volume on the speakers like back. Supposedly, after my complaint, a software update was made, but the change was in my opinion only minimal. I think rather that there is somewhere a cable on the amplifier not correctly connected or something like that in the direction. Or an amplifier defect… Where exactly and how could I quickly narrow down what it actually is? Is there anything I – without completely disassembly the car – myself check I know it’s probably whining at a high level, but I’m sure the system had more “pressure” before. Everything seems to be OK at the front, actually only with the rear speakers as described. And I would have liked to fix that before VolvoPro expires in September and I have to pay for every screw to tighten… Thank you for every tip!

Hello friends of good taste …. I am /was very pleased with my V50 1.6D; until straight! On the way home I drove on the country road 140km/h and suddenly I thought: hups, since when you have to hold the steering wheel with both hands at the speed of the car. (for smartass: I know that you can only drive 100 and I also know that you should always have both hands on the steering wheel). Then suddenly 2 lamps lit up: i – information lamp and a lamp, which has a sign with a risk of slipping or slinging (l. in the amature board). I then checked my messages and there it was that I have 2 messages. 1.) Stability control required 2.) Engine power reduced PRIMA, the car has run about 63,000km. Well. He no longer pulls (for smart-ass: I know it is only a 1.6l D!) the 1st and 2nd gear goes to measure but when I am in the 3rd it takes long at full throttle, around 2000u/min to 3000u/min z u come! What can that be? Had already asked a workshop man when correcting the recall action wg any built-in part, what that is at about 80km/h front re. for an unround klang. one of the belts was processed with any spray—-was then still there. But it is also really bad to hear. Wait for advice or conjectures greetings from Castrop-Rauxel manuELA

Hello, I was just looking at this product from Osram:http://www.osram.de/…/index.jsp Has anyone tried this at a V50?

I’m probably thinking too much about it again, but what’s that in the picture for a pump? I bought my thick one last weekend and the salesman said it was changed because there were problems there. Today I look, actually after the wash water and see that the pump is not connected at all. So in the system is integrated, hose moderately yes. But the plug hangs loose around and the matching counter plug hangs right next to it. If it is my first Volvo, have I can’t find out what’s funny to me.

Hello together After having been a quiet reader for quite a while now, I would like to contact you directly with my request. In search of a reliable durable station wagon you can hardly get past the good Volvos, especially because I am looking for something long-lasting with the also more than 200 tkm in it. Business I drive the XC70 D4 AWD. I have now fallen in love with the typical Volvo Haptik in addition to the reliability. But because this is too big for my everyday life I have looked at the V50 a bit more closely. I also like it very well optically and fits better, not to say, in my budget at all. After a long research here in the forum I was able to answer some questions myself and after 2 test drives I am now also sure that it should become a V50. The 2.0 machine with 145 hp and the 2.4i 5 zyl come into question. I first thought about a diesel, but in Switzerland this would probably not be worthwhile. Apart from the fact that my future everyday car will probably also be moved at very different distances, with often also short distances. I would not call myself a racing driver now even if I like to give gas from time to time. But for me a quiet relaxed cruising on the motorway (Switzerland) is more important at max. 130 to 140km/h. If the consumption then still keeps within limits (8-9l) I am happy. During my test drive yesterday in a 2.0er I am al I am aware that the missing 6th gear has a big influence. But as a layman I guess that constantly such speeds are not so good for the longevity of the engine, or am I there on the wooden track? Will the days at least be another 2.4i test drive to see how this drives in comparison. As far as consumption is concerned, I read here in the Foru My car driver’s heart wishes the 5 cyl. reason but rather the 2.0. Since I regularly travel longer highway routes I would like to know what it looks like with the consumption for the above mentioned cruising speeds over a longer period of time. Look forward to your input. Greetings

Servus people, I’m researching why my car was actually vibrating while accelerating! the other day I found a cheap right drive shaft and also installed the same, because the suspicion was on the intermediate camp, but that was still great in shot, no matter, had problems with axle cuffs and stop! So now I’m looking for my Sweden, (if ford with in there is certainly no one else 😛 ) a left drive shaft, and I came across Maxgear, now I wanted to ask how they are, o I don’t know how the previous one handled the car. It’s the Volvo V50 T5 2.5 liter gasoline engine from 2004 with the m66 6 gear manual gearbox current Lup power approx. 242tkm. I thank you already in advance.

Hello together, today on the way home from work and on a short errand just now I noticed a strange behavior of my moose (2.0D): The turbo reacts at once delayed! Normally it misses a good kick at full speed from ~1.750-2,000 rpm after the usual turbohole memory customer and rips, but this happens at the moment only one or two seconds later (and thus at slightly higher speeds). So below 2,000 rpm feels the nor I’m not sure if this could fit, but the vacuum hose of the turbo control (which runs on the back of the engine block) could possibly be a suspect… It had bitten through a marten some time ago, so the better reachable end of the hose from the ADAC against a The provisional was found to be so good that he thought that I could safely leave it that way – and it also worked over 40,000 km without any problems. Apparently the connection is still fine, but maybe a cattle bit in again…? On the other hand, even if a vacuum hose has a small hole, no full tube can be used. I suppose the pressure will be built more, so the turbo should never be able to build up full pressure, right? Greetings Matt