Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello community, I’m still not sure if I should complete the Volvo Pro Plus connection guarantee for my C70 MY13 (this is the one that covers almost everything except the cover parts).Yes, it’s clear: in truth the connection “guarantee” is an insurance and only a big bet.It would help me in the decision-making process if those of you who have also signed a connection guarantee and tell if they are financially involved. Of course there is also an immaterial “learn” in the form of a good feeling that one would have been secured… I don’t mean that, but only the hard Euros: balance of the costs for the connection guarantee vs. actually necessary and taken over repair expenses. I consider whether I should take 909 € for the PRO PLUS in the hand for another 24 months “guarantee”. For this speak: – automatic transmission (if broken then really expensive) – elaborate roof Konstr uktion (the hydraulic ballet in the trunk – also here: if fit, then expensive: is included in the PRO PLUS ) – known defects of the series V50, S40II, C30 (climate condensator, door mechanics?..) Against this speaks: – my material-friendly driving style – “smooth weather car” without great stress – last model year, i.e. there should be no old problems of the series from earlier years (Zündschloss..) anymore. – “maintenance-free” D3 Diesel / soot particle filter combination Thanks for your reports Greetings, Harald

Good day, dear Volvo drivers… I watch more and more the cracking of my driver’s seat (with a quick change of direction like roundabout) The cracking comes from two “corns”. Somewhere in the back either seat or at the beginning of the backrest and from the side. The workshop hears it and does not feel it. Sometimes you can even feel a slight slide. Think the seat rails give in or has the seat some play – rails sit but bombarded. Or the backrest b zw the joint has a side-play opposite the lower part of the seat… However it cracks somewhere in the transition seat to the backrest and also side-wise: At the side comes the cracking from the seat-ve-dress. Maybe it is not right or it has loosened behind it or felt could help. Do you know how I get this hard plastic cladding away? I mean the part at the side where e.g. through a slit of the lever to the seat-vesser position. The seat is a mechanical – so without electric landing. Thanks for the help in advance and greetings Peter

With the consumption indicator of the BC I have my problems. Up to now the BC have worked each of my vehicles differently. In the stand with running engine and inserted driving stage the BC shows no momentary consumption, what is chatty, the engine is running yes. If I let go of the brake, the BC shows a consumption of approx. 23 liters from about 10 KM/H. If, however, I drive on the country road or highway, then take the foot off the gas and let the push-off work, the consumption goes no I don’t know why. I can’t understand. I don’t work the push-off, or the BC from Volvo actually works differently than others. Background to the demand, the pock sucks like a hole. Even on the highway at a moderate speed I don’t get below 11.5 liters. I don’t like to think about what the poop will blow away when I have the trailer on it. Greetings

After more than a year of intensive search and several kilometers across the whole country I have finally found my great love. C 70 T5 Description First hand – Ember Schwarz Metallic with dark brown full leather equipment ,BJ 8.2012 Checkbook maintained and almost 57000 km ran. Seen, examined, made and bought extensive test drive, because he also liked my OHL everything went very fast. Since Friday he is now with me and I never had so much joy, I’m just at the grin. Pictures follow later , I haven’t had any time just driving and at the moment it rains unfortunately. Greeting Volker

Hello together, the Volvo maintenance arithmetic is not stored anywhere in the manual transparent – however, thanks to the friendly help of a forist of the VIDA expression for the maintenance work of my C70 D3 MY2013. With me now 3 years after EZ the 3rd maintenance is available and indeed not because of the KM limit of 90TKM, but simply because of time lapse. The driving performance last year was only nearly 10TKM (total now approx. 43TKM) Already during the last maintenance the exchange of Fuel and air filters are omitted, which also corresponds to the specification in the VIDA plan: “Change only according to km / miles interval”. For K+L filters the change to 60TKM is planned. I understand correctly that I can also leave out the replacement of K+L filters this year if I assume that I will not exceed the 60TKM until the next inspection (60-43=17TKM – beautiful weather trips unlikely) I would hate to renovate a luxury through the workshop. buy – on the other hand the completely official stamp in the manual does not endanger (maintaining the connection guarantee; resale value etc.) If you go through there: Thanks for a illumination Greetings Cesiezig

Hi, Since it has summer temperatures, with my V50 2.0l petrol tank (60.000km) the problem arises again that it is difficult to insert in the stand of the 1st or the R-speed – and this especially in a warm condition. As soon as I can let the car roll a piece, it works better. If the engine is switched off, I can insert the two gears without difficulty. All other gears can be switched normal and even at low outside temperatures I have hardly any difficulty I have already tried the SuFu, but the problems are probably more common with others at low temperatures. Could a gear oil change or adjustment bring an improvement to your opinion or is that again only “state of the art” at the V50? Greeting famai

Hey folks! Next week I have an appointment with the friendly in Darmstadt-Weiterstadt. I ordered a set of winter complete wheels and a remote control for the heater. Besides I also told the dealer about the following curiosity: For example, I am standing at the traffic light, next to me a truck or a bus or similar big vehicle. These vehicles give from time to time such a loud hissing from the brake system (?!) of itself. If this happens, and my Cee is in u Other example: an equally large vehicle buzzes past Cee – Cee gets scared, the PDC starts to beep! Seems to be somehow very oversensitive. Meanwhile, I have the rear bumper first scratches – does not fit to oversensitive sensors one could think. In fact, I can’t really rely on the PDC, as they often cause a lot of problems. The dealer told me that the problem was probably well known – at least the hypersensitive sensors were also noticed negatively by a colleague. However, it would be possible to adjust – this would be diagnosed and fixed at my appointment – you can be curious. Does someone have similar or similar problems with the PDC? Already solved?

A question to the experienced retrofitters here in the forum. I drive a 2012 V50 1.6 DRIVe (MW84F1). So with a standard lowering of about one centimetre. For the summer I need a set of wheels + tires. I wanted to give him an original look and looked for original Volvo rims. Unfortunately I did not pay attention. I bought a super preserved set Sadira (internal Volvo number 9466833) for a good course. The rims have the dimensions 7.5 x 17, LK 5/ 108 and ET 45. According to official release of Volvo I bought unfortunately too fast. No release for my moose. Therefore now the question, someone drives the rims on his V50, ideally on one with lowering ? Does the ET 45 fit despite official release of ET 52.5 ? Which tire dimensions could I drive ? Or does someone else experience with rims of identical or larger dimensions on his V50 ? I find the rim so chic and would like to have the set on my car en. Registration at the TÜV should be, if it fits no problem. But the question is, fit the …… Help …..

Hello all, I would like to buy a V50, for daily commuting (30km easy), vacation etc. Have looked at this today (but not yet tested): http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Can you do something wrong? Which price is appropriate? Actually I didn’t want to spend more than 6000, but I’ve already seen that it’s hard to find something under 160,000km. But should hold a few years. Then rather one with 2.0? Important to me: little consumption. I didn’t understand 5 l, the “Drive” is less than the 1.6. I didn’t ask today, maybe the dealer also knows what. But would I be very happy about the answers too. To the previous owner’s story: first owner had it 1 year, second the rest. And: what good it is to buy from the dealer if you live 120 km away from him? Thanks already and many greetings!

Hello guys, I have the following problem my Volvo s40 Built 2004 2.4l spins recently, while driving coming piles of messages like immobilizer see manual Brake assistant safely stop engine maintenance urgent Windscreen wipers go on and over time then go back out of speedometer, rev indicator, temperature everything except tank indicator goes on 0 oil lamp as well as hand brake are at the lights If I then turn off engine and want to turn on again goes nothing more, then must ic h Tap the battery and sometimes wait a few minutes sometimes even more, so at some point the jumps on but after a few meters come whole errors again, sometimes I can drive 2-3 days without problems and it happens nothing but then again, Volvo can not read out, tried with Cem module which cost me 500€ and it has brought me nothing now that stands again for the 3rd time at Volvo and nobody knows what this can be by now my bill already lies at 110€ and we do not come more maybe someone would have had a similar problem? Would everyone be grateful for every tip, thank you