Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

It seems a bit stupid to start this thread, but I’m still interested in it: I’ve had my S40 T5 (new car) for a week and I haven’t had such trouble driving a car yet. The grinding point of the clutch must be right on the millimeter, otherwise the engine will choke off or the car will run off like Sau (depending on whether too much or too little). The resistance of the pedal is very strong – pushes your foot up. I also noticed that the accelerator will react quite late. Had 3 Nissans before, so you could tap a little bit and the speed went up, the Volvo has to push quite a bit until the engine reacts. But I noticed the same already when testing another T5, but I ignored it. Is that “coupling accuracy” just like that with Volvo or is that something over time? I have to say that my latest car so far was 8 years ago, my last one was 14 when I got it 🙂 So I’m full of newcomers in new cars 🙂 a second “bad” question. How do you do it when you park? I have no idea how long my FZ is, because I don’t see over the hood – what I seem to have quite used to with my Nissans. I always put it backwards to the wall because I have (fortunately) sensors. Does an S40/V50 driver have a tip ??? Gruss $id (again sorry for this thread 🙂 )

Hello everyone I’ve been the owner of a new Volvo S40 2D for a few days. I chose the inexpensive diesel variant because it attracted my attention due to low consumption and low exhaust emissions. The drive variant didn’t work for me, because I hardly even drive in the city with traffic lights. However, I got used to stopping the engine when waiting at the traffic lights and starting again at Green. I now have a the engine did not start again when I turned the key from II to III. I could not start the engine. There was a huge casserole at the intersection because my brand new Volvo didn’t start. After endless attempts the engine jumped on and I was able to continue. I was able to adjust this situation several times later. A new start of the engine is only possible after I completely pulled the key and at least 50- When I then approached my Volvo dealer about this process, he said that this was so well known and was due to the “radio supply of the immobilizer”. If someone could detect a similar behavior or I have a problem with the technology here. If I pull the key completely off and hold “on the stretched arm” briefly in the rear of the car, I can start the engine immediately. I have not heard anything like this yet, although my car was not running until now. The car also had an immobilizer. It’s a bit strange the thing. Confused greetings from the new Volvo S40

Hi. A few questions about the V 50 1.8 (momentum): the car, EZ Sept. 06 with 90,000 Km, maintained, for a good 10,000.-; price generally ok? Are there blatant weaknesses with the Fz., wants to say: Places where you should look/hear in any case? How are the maintenance intervals at the 1.8? Do you generally drive to the ‘friendly’ for maintenance/repairs or do you entrust your elk to a workshop without Volvo lettering? Thank you in advance Greeting

This morning I probably totally scrapped my Gas-Hyundai and therefore need a new car quite quickly. After the unsatisfying trip to petrol/gas it should become a diesel again. Today I stumbled over an offer for a C30 2.0 D, which sounded quite interesting (BJ 08, 46tkm, 12,000 €). I saw the car from the outside, I like it. Unfortunately I have absolutely no plan from Volvo, so I ask here in the Volvo-UF: how do you find it? the basic data? is there anything important that you have to pay attention to in this model/engine? Is this a “for God’s sake, just leave your fingers” of this model or engine for some reason?

Data: Volvo C30 (the small so, 2-door) Diesel 2.0 D Km-Stand: just over 100,000 Hello, I’m not sure if the consumption of 7 liters in winter is normal for a diesel. I think it’s a bit too high, even if the month for the small car is quite large (2 liters of motor). But “questions costs nothing” and maybe you have an idea how I could reduce the consumption a little bit. Well, I’m one of the tussies that drives “wildly”, i.e.: fast journeys, high speed I also don’t drive long distances every day, until work is 15km (simple). On weekend times highway routes to blow the turbocharger “freely” ;-). When I bought the car 2 years ago, the average consumption was 4.7 liters. And that in winter, say: in January. And in the Allgäu it’s not really cold in winter – in contrast to my region, I’ve got a change of oil regularly (for a diesel, but still: more often than recommended oil change with best oil), I wouldn’t have a change of fuel. And I don’t know how to change of fuel.

Hello, I did an inspection at Volvo before about 400 KM in the frame of which also the spark plugs and the air filter were replaced. According to the invoice / part number these spark plugs were used:http://www.skandix.de/…/ 1015972 or 31272427 After now about 400 driven KM I notice that the fuel consumption has increased enormously, without my driving profile or driving style had changed. I record the consumption since about 85,000 KM ( Spritmonitor ). On the winter tires it can not be lying, they have been on it since October. There were no full gas drives, the car was not driven loaded in this time. Since one month I consume about 1.5 liters more, because I only drive 7 KM simply to work and therefore put off the car, if it has just become warm. Earlier, when I drove only long distance was the consumption at 6,7 liters. Because of the shorter distance and the cold season the consumption can be already about 8 liters. I have 2 pictures attached to it, but it would be nice to see the mixture, but it is wrong to see the fuel?

During the last maintenance of my C30 year 07 (80 Tkm) it was noticed that the two screws with which the soot particle filter was attached to the engine were broken off. As a possible cause the friendly person called a “bad” or possibly even a loose screw and subsequent break of the then overburdened single screw. However, one can exclude a damage due to sportive driving or the like. Not quite satisfied with this answer I turned to the Volvo customer service, which has not yet penetrated to a correct opinion, let itself specified feedback deadlines pass and not report further. On the phone one speaks there now of a wear part and consoled on a soon coming, but probably (for me) not too positive opinion. What do you think of the history?

Hello everyone, wanted to ask me about your experiences with the xenon light. At my V50 (MY 2010, without autom. cornering light) it is the case that for example with the large signposts, which stand sideways to the right of the highway, the lower half is brightly illuminated, while the upper half with sharp border appears clearly darker. If the road is still a bit uneven then the light cone begins to “jump”, which is clearly visible and very irritating because of the sharp separation. Since I have not noticed this yet with any other car, the question: is this the same with you or are the headlights turned off? Besides, does someone know in which situations the automatic light-width regulation after, only with stronger loading or also with gradients/falls etc.? Thank you already in advance!

Hello Drive for 7 years car and my new C-30 R-Design 1.6D MY09 is the first in which I noticed the circuit extremely well. I can’t switch to the 4 gears in the city at 50 km/h without becoming extremely low-touring (drive the moter and want to avoid that) With my old S40 1.6 petrol engine I drove around at 55 km/h in the 5 gears now I can only turn at 75 km/h in the 5th gears with the 1.6 diesel it comes to me that the 3rd gear is translated for the 3rd gears i.e. when I switch to the 4th gears the number falls extremely (in contrast to the other gears). Have read in a test that the 3 gears is translated briefly to speed up better. At work I drive a Citroen Jumpy with the same 1.6 diesel engine there I don’t have these problems What do you mean?

Hello, I looked out of fun after my V50 at autoscout24 and mobile.de and found with astonishment that I paid a lot less than at present for the same KM stand. then I increased the KM stand to see from when the value sinks. also here an amazing result: only from 100,000 km the value falls below 10k euro, and also that only with a few cars, most were despite 100,000 km still a lot more than 10,000 euro. it can be that the loss with new car purchase after 3 years strongly sinks at volvos ( with others but also ) but at least my search showed that I still have to be able to drive 60,000-70,000, until the car is less worth than I spent for it 🙂 have bought it with 40,000 km, now he has 54,000 km on it, ride in the year about 30,000 km. should be still 2 years in it 🙂 or is the whole with volvo very strongly seasonal caused ? gruss E.