Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello, I just had the V50 1.6 gasoline 101 hp year 07/2005 when changing oil. Before I had traded down the Volvo dealer, because 25 EUR / liter for an oil which costs me online about 10. EUR was a bit much to me. I was surprised then that the Castrol 0w-30 SLX only 4 liters were filled. So it is also in the instruction, however, during the last inspections more has been tipped in. In the service booklet it is true that a new car gets at first more oil – however, the oil quantity of 5.2 liters over 4.8 liters has been reduced to now 4 liters. The car has now 43,000 km and today its total 4th oil change. Normally you only need every 20,000 km – but rather an oil change too much than too little 🙂 Is this reduction normal? I wanted to look at the oil rod – but was too dark. Thanks & Gruss E.

Hello experts at my v50 D5 the consumption from 7.44 to 10.5 is fastened. I determined that after the tank was pumped empty, because I had fuelled petrol instead of diesel. Furthermore, the engine load is higher in the emptyfauf than before: from 15 to over 40 to 55. Even if I stand and switch down the selector lever from D to N to P, the engine load indicator changes from 55 to 45 to 40!!! Emotionally I mean that the car doesn’t pull so correctly anymore, yesterday on the highway I had trouble reaching 200, which went better before. What is broken? Furthermore, the engine before pumping out ran more restlessly than then then then?!!! What is defined as engine load? Which measured values determine it? Can someone tell me what to do? What is to do? Also pay attention to the pictures in the annex. Grusss

Hello, I have a V%0 2.0D built in 2007 with 30000 km. Super nice car, am actually totally in love. Drive nice gentle. I have already determined 2 problems and would like to know your opinion about it: Ser 1. and 2nd gear go in compared to the other gears significantly harder, and something on the switching scenery pinches when you move the lever to the left and front respectively rear, to insert the 1st or 2nd gear. Ask me if this has anything to do with the reverse gear block. The second problem is a very tight rut, which occurs at constant speed on the land road exactly at 2000U/min, and relatively often. At first I had the feeling, that it is perhaps only the road, which is a bit wavy, but I then tried it out on an extremely smooth, new road, and there it was also so, at the uncoupling and rolling it away again. And still something occurred to me on the highway: until Tacho 190 it went relatively fast, but to reach the maximum speed it still needs very fast?

Have you been thinking about getting me one of the pre-Facelift C30, a T5 should be, automatic duty (because of “home peace”). What do you think of the following: http://tinyurl.com/62bdofy If a Volvo employee’s leasing back-runner is already standing at the dealer’s office for a long time and during the test drive the battery symbol lit up, plus brakes squeaking easily (possibly because of longer service life on the farm?). What would be fixed by that, he thinks… Price is still a bit high for me (CH ratios *hüstel*) – Although it has little KM, but just, the facelift is outside and it has been standing on the square for almost a year. Opinions on this (equipment, points to which one should pay attention, especially C30 and T5)? And please no discussion about GT pro/contra

Hello together, am freshly baked (4 days) V50 owner. The good piece is light blue metallic 2.0D Bj2005 Leder Tempomat Standheizung (geil!) and think apart from the iphone-an-volvo-box from grom over leg gowns (velves & tires) for the summer after… currently there are of course 16″ winter tires on it, which comes very “commod” = cozy. Not that I want to race with the car, should definitely remain suitable for everyday use, but from the look I would like 18″ or 19″ rims already, only the question from where it becomes too uncomfortable. Go 18″ still or is that then already “real hard”? Lowering and/or sports gear is probably not possible, the way to the house of the mother-in-law wants to be driven regularly and includes a piece of official field and forest path! I also drive a Porsche 993 Targa (there is a recommendation for Porsche the 18″ because of the comparatively soft car not) to call 17″ serial rims, that would be sportily comfortable… would be nice to say with T. 5 wheels or to keep a little bit of fun.

Moin, I’m about to buy a V50 1.8 petrol BJ 2008. Now I discover that on the last invoice of the seller is “purp bar renewed”. Is this an indication that there was a damage or does it have to be done anyway with the 50,000 Insprection? Besides, the air conditioning unit loses liquid, but the workshop has found no fault and only filled up. What do you think? Is a certain loss normal? Or would you suggest that there is something on the capacitor (it seems to happen more often)? The latter would be a rather expensive repair. And – are the new capacitors more stable? Or does someone have an idea how to prevent it? I spontaneously get the idea to put a wire grid in front of it. But I have no idea whether this would be technically feasible. Thank you for your assessment, Schorse P.S.: The Volvoman around the corner meant a capacitor exchange with about 600 Eur to make a book. Since the Ford Focus 2 should be construction-like: Would the capacitor there be somewhat cheaper?

Hi, I’m planning to buy a Volvo V50 T5. But I’m not quite sure where to buy it yet. Volvo dealer: Advantage 2.99 % Financing, How much discount is there for a new Volvo? Has someone already made his experience? Reimport dealer: Advantage price saving around 7000 EUR (gross), disadvantage quite high financing costs approx. 6.0 % Does someone have experiences in general about reimporting and in special case to www.swedenservice.de ? From which I have sent me an offer which sounds very interesting. Own reimport (car purchase in e.g. Holland or Denmark) After what I found good and like to save 2000 EUR to the reimport dealer (in Holland). What other costs come to me with this variant? How does the purchase in Denmark behave? I did not find any exact price lists for this. Does anyone have experiences on this topic? Thanks and Grusss Lokutus PS: I would also like to know about the performance/run/consumption of the 2.5 l turbo engine installed in the T5!

Hello together, after my dear Ford Escort Kombi has to go to the Werstatt for the third time this year (Bj 98), I love a Volvo V50, Bj 2008. Always wanted to have a Volvo Kombi, and now it’s supposed to be. However, my father gets the crisis with this thought and only meant that they are incredibly expensive if they have to go to the workshop and need a special size for everything (disk wiper, tires, etc.). Now the question to the professionals: what does it look like in practice? Just the advertisement for the car: http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=ljpzaaivo2aw what do you mean? Too many km for the price? Or look at it? LG Katrin

Hello together, since yesterday my elk shows a strange behavior, each towards the middle to the end of my work distance (at about 20-25 km driving distance) – very spongy steering feeling, slightly delayed, a little as if one literally “driving on raw eggs”. At the beginning of the ride everything feels OK.To the closer circumstances: – Have still winter tyres on it (came not yet to change), which are almost new, is their first season – From my long road trip with full packed car I still have the recommended pressure of 2.8 bar front and 2.6 bar back on it, thought for the few days, which the winter tires are still on it, I can live with some increased wear in the tire center. – Yesterday afternoon it had 26°C, today early, when the phenomenon occurred again, something between 12-15°C. – I always in the middle of the track quite floated highway. Can someone make a rhyme to the cause of this phenomenon? A mechanical problem I suspect rather did not; did not have a Bordsteinrash or had no heavy noise, but I did not know anything about the heavy noise of the ride.

Today I cleaned all the seals (with rubber pleating agent) and oiled (oil from Volvo – 60Euro). I noticed that the varnish peels off and already form the first rust bubbles under the remaining varnish, namely at the front roof element, at the very front where the roof is lying on the A-pillar. I suspect three causes: 1. too violent “smiling” of the roof element on the A-pillar at closing 2. the seals were very brittle and dirty – this scratchs on the paint and “smokes” it permanently away 3. Misconstruction – in my eyes a place so burdened is better protected (dicker rubber, otherwise what?) My car is year 2006 and now has 205tkm down. does anyone else have this paint/rust phenomenon? And above all, what can you do against it??