Dear community I would like to buy a new, used car. The C70 of the year of construction from 2006 fits into my budget and I really like it. My desired motorization is the T5 with 220 hp, maybe also the 2.4i. Please tell me: – Are there weak points/macks, which I have to pay attention to when buying? – The top mechanism seems a bit shaky to me, does it do what? – Which components could cause trouble from 100,000 km times (turbo, cover etc.)? – What do the usual inspections cost and how often do they have to be carried out? – How much is the actual consumption? – Is the gas conversion useful (reserverad tub)? I thank you already for your helpful answers.
Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum
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C70 II: Battery defective or do I have power eaters?
Hello, I had my battery replaced in the C70 II (diesel) on 07.01.2011 for the last time. Now that it was completely emptied, I called the ADAC to the start aid. The “yellow angel” told me that it was still intact, but now – after 2 days – it is again so empty that I can not even get the central locking up/to be with the car key. Can I assume that I need a new battery? Can it be that I suddenly have a power eater? I have already had the phenomenon that after locking the door, the 2 door lock lamps inside did not go out any more often. So far the problem had always been solved (for example: move the vehicle again for a short time and lock it again). But now, the lights burned permanently and I removed the safety no. 64, in the hope to prevent the discharge so…which unfortunately did not work out again: it is empty again. Can anyone recommend a battery here?
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Ratters only in the right curve
Hello! No Elk needs attention and I need your help: In the right turn (from 40 km/h) I have a rattling noise on the left front wheel (comparable with the crossing of a perforated side strip, which is often used abroad). The noise does not occur below the speed of 40 km/h and is the loudest at 80 km/h. It doesn’t matter if one is uncoupled or uncoupled. It occurs regardless of winter/summer tires. It only occurs from a steering impact of estimated 20 degrees. In left turns I have no problems. I’ve picked up the wheel once: No bearing game to recognize. Otherwise everything looks iO too, but easily run-in brake-which can hardly lead to it. Do you have a tip? Thank you and greeting from Darmstadt derwillinger Volvo V50 2.0D; 223,000 km; MJ2006
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Super suction sound and transducer for V50 2.4i in just 30 minutes
Hello dear elk driver fellows… Have a little bit of the original air filter box “reoptimized”….(very expert, I know π ) and found amazing intake sound. In another thread someone has already taken a look at the box and threw out the load suction valve and a few other parts that have not been named further. I have still gone here and drilled into the 2 air collectors to the left of the intake tube to the lowest point on the ground each a 20mm hole. Is for the performance on hot engine perhaps a little slowing*, but the passage and the ingenious, aggressive, but not too intrusive intake sound from below, it is worth it all times. (* it will probably only cause to the test bench to be able performance loss.) I don’t believe it myself, since the air collectors themselves sit very close to the engine and become very warm, also the accumulated air should take over the heat.
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V50 and the DPF
Hello, I have a problem with my 2008 V50 1.6D β rather with my DPF. At the end of last year it was the first time dense. I let it burn twice before I decided to let it work with a conditioner, so that it is like new again. That was at about 110000 km driven. Today (2 months after the preparation and nearly 3000 km driven) the car went back into the emergency run and the engine control light burns again. So the same symptom as the DPF was full. Even if I drive a lot of short distance in the city, I have driven from time to time also on long distance, where the DPF could have burned free. Can it really be that the DPF is back after such a short distance? (since the old 110000km held). Bzw. can this possibly be something else? Defected glow candles or something like that? Do you have a tip for me? Thank you very much in advance.
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Fooling Waterfall
Moin together, since I have blackened everything on my car by now, I wanted to continue in the interior now. Especially since a work colleague raised me with it, that the center console looks like a Sanifair automatic machine. If he was at least black, he says…. Well, today I could buy the Sanifair automatic machines cheaply and now stand before the vital question: folizing or painting? Painting is now not the problem, but the alternative with the foil. As long as it is surfaces, I still get quite clear to rough motorists, but as soon as it gets curvy, the choleric gets through in me. Has one of you done this before and how does the result look or see? I still have the film lying around. Greeting Daniel
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Presentation round: a new V50 driver π
Hello, today I would like to introduce myself briefly to you. I am Sebastian, 27 years old, test engineer by profession and come from Baden-WΓΌrttemberg. So far I drive an Opel Astra GTC, but since I need a larger trunk and a total fan of everything that comes from Sweden, I had to/should have a Volvo here! π This has come about now, because a V50 2.0D Momentum was available for sale at a dealer close by. I signed the purchase contract today, I get car at the end of the month, at the latest at the beginning of June (it’s up to me, with the delay…) I am happy to find here with you the one or the other information, on a good exchange and hopefully few problems π Best regards Sebastian In the appendix still two photos of my new π
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V50 1.6 Relay click in the fuse box (interior) – car no longer starts
Hello, I have a V50 1.6 DriveE 2012 BJ. The car was standing about 6 days. Today tried to start. Keys in, turned upside down and all lights in the tacho have flashed/flaked and stayed out at some point. After that a click noise has appeared under the glove compartment. I think a relay in the fuse box? As I see it, there is only one relay in the interior. Can you easily try to expand/change it without finishing the battery? After a while (about 1h) the click has stopped. When I then put keys in (0 position) no click noise. On 1 position it starts again with clicking. On 2 or 3 position it stops. If I then pull out the key the click remains again. I can no longer even operate the central lock with my key. Tacho also shows nothing anymore. So I have found a similar problem here (unfortunately only in English):https://www.volvoforums.org/showthread.php? the clickspace was uploaded.
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Volvo v50 5 cylinder purchase recommendation on what to pay attention to
Hello, I think I’m really soon the most famous one asking what you have to pay attention to etc So, yesterday when looking for a car in netzt I bumped over the Volvo v50, optically I like it quite well. But won’t be a wonder of space like zb an 80 or so. But 5 cylinder turbo, that sounds nice to you. How sensitive is the engine and the turbo? And generally what weaknesses and strengths does the car have. Ps, I heard to have read that the engine is also installed in the Ford focus st.
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Climatic compressor defective
Hello dear elk forum, actually I don’t own the V50 anymore (now XC60), I passed it on within the family, but I still have problems Contact person News Problem: not a great climate. And only when it’s hot, so really hot! Under 25 degrees everything sparks, it’s over after a few minutes. And even after restart no more. Only the next day…. He changed dryer and capacitor (β¬800), but it wasn’t discovered now: the compressor doesn’t run after a while, it’s somehow stuck. According to the type (V50 2.4l GT from 2006, 175tkm) never existed. Has anyone ever had this before? Is this really the only one? Now the next β¬1300 should be in. Not a little…. Greetings!