Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello. I’m in front of the 80tkm inspection and got a KV at a new Volvo workshop. There’s a Castrol A5/B5 0W 30. When I used to buy the C30 from the Volvo dealer, Castrol Professional Longtec A3/B3/B4 0W 30 was filled in at the 20tkm inspection (at least on the invoice). On the badge in the engine compartment is 5W 30, but without specification (the car is from Spain!) and according to the German operating instructions I should take an A3/B3/B4 0W 30 and in bad conditions A5/B5 0W 30. At the 40tkm and 60tkm inspection I have brought the oil with me and indeed the Castrol Professional Longtec A3/B3/B4 0W 30. What’s right now? I don’t have to change one time. And lastly: Castrol is changing the terms of his oils. Total confusion. The Castrol Professional Longtec A3/B3/B4 0W 30 will probably be called Castrol EW 30 Professional.

Hello you 🙂 My Volvo s40 BJ04 gives a subtle “crack” of itself when I switch to the 2nd and 3rd gears. In the 4th and 5th I don’t hear anything. I just noticed it again, the clapping occurs only briefly, and it was when I let the clutch come after switching. So 2. let the clutch come in clack, 3. let the clutch come in clack. But only in the 2nd and 3. Is this already a serious damage? I also have the feeling that it jerks in the lower gears, mainly in the 2nd and 3rd gears after I have inserted it… held it all up until recently for normal but so slow :/ Drive down 2.4i 137tkm. Thanks already for help

Hello dear Volvo driver, I don’t know how your rides with workshops on the topic of “lifting the vehicle” are during the inspection, wheel change ect.. I have in the past had problems with vehicles without special shots like Mercedes or BMW installed or in the honor of offended mechanic……which they always know how to get the “car” up. Just not…! On all vehicles that are raised at the standing edge Palatinate, there will be damage at some point, as the PVC-distortion alone is damaged by the pressure. At our company car, Ford-Mondeo 2012, this edge has even been bent, because too unstable. At my service car of a C-Class are like with all DB and BMW ́s, plastic shots (blocks) present, which are almost foolproof. But also the C70 II does not have this possibility, since it will certainly connect the ground group with the Ford -Focus. Since at some point, even if our C70 is still new, the workshop visits come, it is already ghast to me. I see at present only the alternative possibility to lift the C70, but be attached to the rear.

Hello Volvo driver, yesterday came message “motor system requires maintenance”. Was today at the friendly and he has read out the error and that means that the additive would be all. Measurements, however, showed a level of 12/15, so almost completely. And since the update did not bring, he thinks that the level indicator of the additive spins. Does anyone know the problem ? Is this a float like in the carburetor, which clamps ? But more importantly, if additive is present, the soot burning then works still correctly or is prevented by the error message the burning of the soot ? In clear text, Can I continue until the next 60 000 km are full ?? But have no desire to be dragged off on the highway due to power drop. Thanks in advance, Volker

Moin since Tuesday I have my V50. On the way to work and back, 25 km of road, city traffic and federal road ever about 1/3, he drives wonderfully. He sprints away from the traffic lights like Usain Bolt. Yesterday I got summer tires and had to drive about 250 km. The track consisted of above mentioned 25 km, then 200 km of highway and then again about 25 km of highway/city traffic. I noticed the following. The route to the highway, wonderful. Then on the highway the first kilometers “normally” drove then turned on the cruiser. After about 100 km of highway times a little pause. After that I noticed that he had no performance. At the time of giving gas nothing happened. I came to about 120-130 km/h (the gas pedal about 1/3 pressed through). I could push the pedal further through, but nothing happened again. In the meantime he accelerated again again, at the same time the consumption went on almost 10 liters. Then again on the country road (the remaining 25 km) again as at the beginning. After that I did not visit my car type again on the highway.

Hello together, this topic has already been discussed here. my elch has been having real problems at the start for about 1 month. problem 1: often the car starts turning around only 2 or 3 times – the first times he dies briefly but again. problem 2: I drive about 100 kilometers, turn off the car. if I want to start again 5 minutes, the car comes with an extreme jerk and strong vibrations through the whole vehicle as if he were only running on 2 cylinders and does not take gas. if I turn off the car and start again the phenomenon repeats itself or it jumps back to normal. at the temperatures it can not lie, it has about 20 degrees and it still happens. anyone an idea what that could be? lg walter

Hello, during the axle measurement (2.4i) unfortunately the right track rod could not be set, as this should be stuck according to Reifen.com workshop (after 15 years possibly even comprehensible). I was advised to make the fixed track rod in a workshop by heating. Up to now I have not found a workshop that wanted to do so. What I can understand if necessary, because that can probably only be the last emergency solution (heat on the chassis). Now I want to try my luck myself with WD40 and ceramic rust releaser cold shock spray in order to avoid the replacement of track rod + head. Enough, if I have to pay the measurement + adjustment again. Unfortunately, my existing 22 key is too small for the counter nut. What size do I need?! I don’t have a measuring slider or access to VIDA. I was able to turn the track rod myself at the designated location with a 16 key. Must always be solved for the track rod adjustment? Thanks for your help!

Moin, I’m currently 20 years old and I’m looking for a car for me. Actually I looked for CLK, A5 etc., but then I looked around Volvos. I used to like Volvo, because my father had some and I built up my sympathy. Now I’m interested in the C70 and I found one last time. Something under 200,000 km with a D5 engine (179hp) and automatic. Cost point 680€ and is in my budget of 800€. I want to buy a diesel because I get it cheaper because of my work, so a petrol engine is not in question. My mtl. budget is at 300€. Do you think that’s feasible? <- Insurance and taxes are not included In addition, my question is where I can find a maintenance plan, I just found that I should change all 30000km/1 year engine oil. And the tooth strap every 10 years/180000km, but the listing I have found has already changed at 160000km. The C70 is a summ edition/equiption would not be the same as the one. And I've found the answer to the question about this.

Hello Motor-Talk friends! Since recently I have a phenomenon on my little elk (V50 2.0D, BJ 2004). The engine starts quite normally also quiet. Sporadically it suddenly comes to it when starting in 1 gear, that suddenly there is no power anymore and the speed slightly dangles but the car does not come from the spot (speed so about 1300-1400 rpm.). After I then have played something with the accelerator pedal catches it suddenly turns short high because of gas pedal passes through and then runs again without problems. it doesn’t matter whether the engine is warm or cold also regardless of the outside temperatures. I already had the error memory read out and let the engine check for possibly Marder damage however everything without result. My friend could not help me so far. Do you know such a thing or is something like that familiar with Volvo? I already thought about whether it is a gas pedal sensor problem or a problem of the motor speed sensor? Has anyone experienced this or knows the problem?

Hi, I have to start an inquiry here for my dad and need your help “and good arguments” 🙂 So far he already has the second Audi Avant with the 2.0 140PS gasoline engine and wants to replace it now with a new one. To the debate is “again” an A4 Avant 2.0 with edition package etc., or a well equipped V50 (possibly momentum) also as 2.0 gasoline. Normally the Audi is a price class higher than the V50 but since the new model is probably already presented at the IAA there is z.zt.. with Audi unbelievably good conditions, so that the price advantage of the V50 is away. For the V50 speaks, however, that my dad is “a little” in love with my V50 already for two years, the car “no” exit model is but only just to the advantage has been optically refreshed. For the A4 speaks the so far good experiences, the “z.zt.” great price…but again that one drives within a “old” car and the 2.0 is not really the new TF still expensively available, but the “2.0” is not really good in the A4.