Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello, the first question is actually already in the title – when would model year 10 be available, and when would that be delivered? Is there probably experience from the past decades, or *g* And: Has anyone heard what will change with MJ 10?

Sorry to open a noise-threat again. Unlike the cracking of the seats, vibrating the doorpins and the noises of the doorpanos, it seems to be technical in nature: with every smallest unevenness, with each Gulli cover comes a noise from the area of the wheel boxes. But I can’t exactly say whether front or rear. It’s hard to describe how it sounds. A low tone, no grinding or clapping, rather like if something would bend slightly. When maneuvering on the mountain, the noise even drowns out the radio, which causes me a bit of worry. Quite quietly, the noise was always there, which meant a good year ago that it was the twisting of the carros series, especially on the mountain, and the noises were therefore normal. But the noise became significantly louder this weekend within two days, today the passenger also addressed me as to whether something with the suspension was present. What do you think? Weathers in the last days was always the same, the S40 had no contact with exactly other vehicles, so it didn’t have a nice wound.

Hello, first of all, the search function did not make sense ;D have a Volvo S40 bj2007 this one has 38tkm down. Since I have now raised my 18inch rims with 225/40 tires and this looks like a jeep I want to place it discreetly lower that it looks sporty but elegant (!). Now I am already the whole time at googling and find nothing clever that helps me further…. Is it enough to buy feathers (Eibach/HR) or should I prefer to use a chassis (wind, or a rigid?), as I said it should come over discreetly/elegantly and not “protzig”. Which suspensions are eggling to recommend? Would also be nice if jmd had pictures of an S40 with 18 inch and a lowering of the new one mfg.

Hello, I have a Volvo S40 (MY2004) and more recently 19 inch rims on it (carriage, springs etc. is all still a series). I have Xenon headlights and therefore also ALWR (automatic light-width adjustment), that means on the front and on the rear axle there is an axle sensor which detects the loading condition and then automatically adjusts the light-width of the headlights. – This has worked with the 16 inch original rims also so far, but now that I have the 19 inch rims on it I seem to blind the oncoming traffic unintentionally… – It even seems to me that the headlight on the driver’s side (left) would now be “set” higher than the right… My questions: – Did anyone ever have a similar problem/phenomenon after changing the rims? – Does it “set up” the headlights again or have to be readjusted/tuned to the axle sensors? If it would be enough to hire the headlights, it could make every x-popular workshop, but now I should somehow think of a Volvo dealer’s sensor, I need to be reworked directly…

Hi friends, my C70 is a star parker, I always have to drive back out of my parking space (the renter wants to park in front of you ONLY), because the road is uneven, have for a few days the phenomenon that when I park out in the morning and I drive slowly back over the bumps of the road, a loud crackling noise comes from the trunk area. Whether the roof is open or closed, it always cracks, even if I drive a longer stretch straight out and then come into a curve (whether right or left) it cracks again but then no longer so loud. I drive over a badly tarred road I don’t have a single crack, I already have the suitcase room cleaned out, until the replacement wheel, but always the same game. During the day, the car is standing in the park house, when I don’t go off, I drive into the bend then it’s crisp and then it’s understandable that it’s just happened.

Hello, the Volvo S40 2.0D Bj.5/2007 is now there since the weekend LG!! Did the car drive just under 700km (ok, a few more ways around) home and it was a single pleasure. But now also a few questions to the handling get up. The car stood probably for a while, or was probably not optimally driven and should probably be driven in again. He has 17 tkm down. But since I drove the car carefully, I drove about 120-140 most of the time. At this speed the car glides so with 2200-24000 rpm in the 6th gear. Is this a super nice journey, but that probably does not mean it will be free? If it would be possible for the car in the 5th gear at medium speeds, perhaps so to move around the 3000-3500 rpm a little bit over the highway? My TDI engines did this in between always shear well. Umm yes, how do you really use the 6th gear?

Hello together, I have to decide between 320 d touring, Mercedes 220 CDI T and Volvo V50 2.4i petrol. Are all three about 3 years old and lie in the price range between 14500 and 15500. Features BMW good, Mercedes better (version avant-garde) V50 full equipment summum (except sliding roof). Running performance BMW 120.000, Mercedes and V50 each 90,000 km. My problem: I am 1.90 large, i.e. BMW and Mercedes last rest from the seat, behind me no more place, Volvo still goes. BMW + MB as diesel more expensive in tax and insurance. What experience do you have in terms of reliability and cost of inspection. Are there from 100,000 km certain problems with the described versions known? Would you like to drive the car at least 5 years, per year about 12,000 km. Has one or other experience on two of these vehicles and why has it changed. Question is here in the Volvo forum, but I ask for objective opinions. Greeting Contro

Hello people, I have to out as a “depp” today. I don’t have access to the control of the automatic air conditioning system. Often the car blower thunders much too much at the start of the journey, so that I can quickly put it off again (it’s nice to say otherwise). The temperature control should actually happen with a “turn”. Instead of that, somehow you have to always click from the driver, then on the passenger to the two to regulate the temperature. With the instruction I did not really make sure at the operation. Maybe someone can give me very practical adjustment – operating tips. For example, the following questions have surfaced: Does the temperature control work without air conditioning as far as possible? Does the car blower run only in connection with climate or independently? What criteria does the blower strength of the car function depend on? How do you do that..? Thank you for your help.

I’ve had to find out that it comes from the area of the door seal (where the hole is for the roof rack). On the passenger side the same game. Is this a known problem or did someone have it here? Besides, the one foglight is totally wet. (Also known?) On the topic of consumption (mainly of PowerShift driver): How much does he need then with you? So I actually drive very reluctantly. Never kick my cars! To the university I have so 40km a track. So about 80km a day. In doing so mainly rural road (max 100km/h, rather 90). Under 6,5l I just don’t get there (Ohne Klima). Yesterday I am still looking for Leipzig (Autobahn) and have put the Tempomat on 130. That’s why I can’t be around the 8l. That’s what I’d call the Taff with the 2,4 of the moon.

I’m looking for new summer alus and I don’t know if 17 or 18 inches. Which front and rear parts are out of price? I tend to 17 inches at present because of price but only because I’m half Scots