Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hi guys, wanted to spare you, but my learned screwdriver colleagues are already sleeping here. Go around a Volvo c30 1.0 125ps from 2007. Got new documents and discs in the back. (Yes, I confess I did this because I have experience and a learned mechanic friend is always there) Now I noticed that only back right after cracking rustling occurs. But not always, and only with floor waves. Of course I researched and found out that manc I have to say it’s NK pads, where the manufacturer guarantees 3 years of fit and it only happens to the right. Then I found a thread where someone solved the problem by replacing the brake springs outside because the too much game ergo was sucked out. Now my question before I get new brake springs, even if that’s only penny parts costs. Or it’s still my question before I get new brake springs, even if that’s only penny parts costs. which is more expensive. I thought to test the brake so to speak. I took a long screwdriver (flat). I used a lever from the steel rim a hole and tried with the screwdriver to push the brake force (brake caliper) away from the brake disc. But naturally without violence and light. If I did this on the left does nothing. If I did this on the right, one heard a slight cracking. Could the spring be to blame? After all, the first ones are still the first ones. in and see year of construction. Thank you in advance.

Hello Forum I don’t know any more. After the turbocharger gave very unhealthy sounding whistle sounds of itself which went along with a power loss the diagnosis was a new turbo must come from. After 220tkm I thought that could be. At an online parts dealer I ordered the good piece including oil and filter. After the installation in my garage I was quite disappointed. Although no noise but also no power. Then I decided a larger test drive to ma In the workshop no error could be found. After several discussions and opinions of colleagues I renewed the HFM, changed the AGR valve, the EPW for the turbocharger control and the clutch pedal switch. As you already guessed it still does not do right. Unfortunately no error is set. I even installed a vacuum box to see what the turbocharger control does. Looks quite passable from wa I have at the moment 3 driving conditions that do not change predictably. After switching a new condition or the old one.The 3 states 1. Engine does not build up a charging pressure although control and speed ok. 2. Charge pressure builds up slowly depending on the speed. 3. Charge pressure is immediately there and everything is good I don’t know any more. The workshop says that the new turbocharger could have a damage. If he does do it right now and again. g does he have to be OK? Is my opinion, right? In the meantime, around 600 km were mostly driven in condition 2. I hope you can help me. Thank you very much. Grexs

Hello guys, I get to the point quickly. I’ve been driving a Volvo c30 bj2012 and I find the navigation interface somewhat outdated with the 100 small arrows that show you the direction! Is there a way to get a “usual” newer surface through an update or ner software change? So that the direction as with the newer volvo models is shown simply by a different color thick line? Thanks in advance for the answers! MfG.

it’s time – the engine damage is there. to calm down the fatigue – the damage is not due to gas system. at this point in time I only know that the engine seems to have been driven a few 100km (almost) without cool liquid, overheated and now, when it is warm, rusts from the area of the valve cover seal, probably pulls air into the cooling system and loses water somewhere without steaming out of the exhaust. anyway, the engine has to be opened and repaired. The “cylinder head set” also includes the valves. but what else do you need – for example, is the suction bridge compatible? and yes, I know – in order to find out the prices, it is best to contact volvo. problem – the history takes place on the XXX of the world. no volvocars far and wide (also not in the neighboring countries) and the language barrier makes (trotz google translate) difficult. I thought about it, before you blow up a pile of coal by giving your “vin number” on the phone for hours, ask here – maybe someone can roughly cost something to the ones that should be planned for the “parts”. maybe someone has mercy. thank you in advance.

Hello, unfortunately I have strong oil leak at the right vacuum box at the throttle valve. The throttle valve is already new. What could it be? Thank you and many greetings Ps: On the picture I had already cleaned everything.

First hello to all I would need help if it is possible.And I drive a Volvo V50 BJ.2005 2.0D 136PS and now have an error from the board computer ehalten.Servo steering maintenance required ! Ok I found out that the servo pump did not work anymore, so a new servo pump bought and built in, everything ran without problems Now it’s so that the error still remains and the servo also doesn’t work But you can hear that now the servo pump is running or it makes noises. Is it so that I don’t know what I can still try or should Villeicht is here who had the same problem before. So I would be very happy if someone could give feedback about this Lg monkey

I have a Volvo C30 BJ 2006 with a 2 LITER diesel engine. The car has 180,000 KM on the clock. I can’t say much about workshop visits etc., because the service manual was only run up to 100,000. The car is not in emergency run mode and when reading out in the Volvo contract workshop there were no results. I try to describe the problem as well as possible: the car starts and m As the driving time increases, the output of the tailpipe is increasing. One sees a more or less black cloud when accelerating and taking the gas away. In addition, it is sometimes very much jerking (acceleration and even with the same position of the pedal). On gradients, the car goes into the knees by leaving a huge cloud and the engine gives the noise of the flap (like the lid on the exhaust pipe of an older truck or tractor). You will find pictures of my intake bridge and injection nozzles. I see an increased accumulation of oil there. I suspect that my problem comes through a leak (sucking in or turbo hose). I hope you can help me and tell me what it is. The car has been moved only about 50km since the first symptoms.

Hello together, somehow my V50 just seems to develop a few quirks… The newest thing is now that the door lock on the driver’s side does not always work. Sometimes the buttons of the front and back doors stay up and the car stays open and sometimes not. The typical closing noise can then only be heard from the passenger side. Did anyone have the problem here and know what that could be? See it already coming, that I stand and then everything again Good evening, Pooh.

Moin together, this morning the moose let me down. Driven off, after 1.5km drive the engine just went off. No error message in the speedometer, after 5min wait again started, jumped briefly at > speed into the cellar and again. By chance I had my reading device with me, exact error code I can not get together anymore but something with fuel pressure. Will first drag the car home tonight and then post the exact error codes again. Someone ev already an idea where I can start troubleshooting or whether a known problem?

Hello together, As someone with “dangerous semi-knowledge” and the C70, I would like to understand what the philosophy of Volvo is about braking wear. If I am not mistaken, the car manufacturers proceed quite differently in the design of their braking system (please let me correct it). Supposedly there is the possibility to wear brake discs and pads at the same time or just to get the energy destruction during braking mainly at the expense of the pads Is there a rule of thumb, especially to our C70? So e.g. “After 2 sets of coverings also the discs have to be renewed” Thank you for your experiences. Greetings, Cesiezig