Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Are such “vibrations” of the oil level at the oil measuring rod normal, completely safe for engine and DPF and should I not worry about it? From the oil change I drove about 8,000 km and noticed that the oil level would sometimes rise by 2-3 mm, then would go down again and again with an ever longer and faster route, although the level was never above the maximum. I have read somewhere that it is a 2.0D 136hp charm and you should only worry if the oil rises far above the maximum. The first picture shows the measured oil level before 200 km and the second one from today (the higher one). The car was standing in the garage for one week after the 200 km long distance and the second photo is in the garage after this week (maybe the water has collected in the oil tank and thus the oil level has increased)? The engine works well and evenly, the consumption is normal, DPF cleaned before 8,000 km in a special DPF washing machine and the replenished additive, difference sensor on the DPF works perfectly, AGR opens and closes, the throttle valve works well, the suction nozzle is airtight – does it make sense to take care of it? Maybe it’s just the water that collects in the oil tank and then evaporates? Maybe the oil measuring rod is poorly profiled (I have noticed that on one side of the oil measuring rod there is always more oil than on the other, as if it is in a certain wink el would have gotten into the tub).

Moin. I suddenly have the problem with my V50 that the roof sky replaces itself in front of the driver and front passenger. That happened now in the heat. I always drove with air conditioning. I went through all the possibilities and now I have found that the windshield in the rain attacks immediately when the air conditioning is not on. I can not get that away without the air conditioning. I find something strange because my other cars never had the problem so. My front The windshield was replaced by Volvo in December and is also dense. Have already tested this. Dachreling is also dense. Don’t have any water stains in the sky. But what if the humidity comes from the air conditioning system? I noticed that I never have water under the car after driving with climate. So what if the drain hose is blocked? Where do I find it? And would I not have to have moisture somewhere in the footroom? What are the possible sources of error? can cause moisture to enter? Greetings, René

Hello forum, hope you can help me. Is a great forum as I could see. Now I signed up. My problem is the following. About 4 months ago I bought a used V50 2.0d. Already a lot of it is in the emergency mode. But it did not show any messages. I then had the particle filter removed and had it professionally cleaned. In addition, the pressure sensor was renewed. Error message when reading out was particle filter blocked code ECM242F and Dru ckfilter Particle filter ECM2456. After installing the cleaned particle filter and pressure sensor, the errors were deleted. Nevertheless, both errors remain and the car falls into emergency mode from time to time. There is never a message displayed. In addition, the car jerks at constant speed. E.g. bewi 80 at 2000 revolutions. I despair. Do you have an idea? Thank you in advance. Eric

During my last inspection in October, Volvo found that there was a hair crack in the fresh air hose / air intake hose of my Volvo C30. Since I had no problems with the vehicle so far, I did not have an exchange (the hose alone should cost 276.26 euros). The service staff also told me that I could go on without further trouble and that the BC would report at some point if an exchange was really necessary. Today (-5) I then had the phenomenon that during the acceleration (city traffic approx. 40 km/h) the BC reported with the message “decreased engine power”. After I had stopped briefly and switched off and switched off the ignition, the error message went away and I was able to continue normally. By Google I then came across an engine talk thread, where someone complains about a reduced engine power, but in which no corresponding error message in the display gets Here it was commented, among other things, that it could be the air mass meter (which is in / on the said hose) because there is no error message in the BC in case of such a defect. Therefore, I am somewhat unsure whether my problem is really due to the hair crack detected by Volvo. What do you think? Of course, I could just have the tube replaced for good luck now. Then there would be my second question … Without air mass meter there would be the smart c in the accessories for 99 Euro (Skandix), with air mass meter this is about 200 Euro (Wikinger Parts). Would also the favorable variant be enough here or should one exchange the LMM immediately? Vehicle: Volvo C30 Drive BJ 06/2010 (Facelift) about 102,000 km part number hose: 31293729 I would like to thank you already in advance for your answers

Hi guys, yesterday we had a guardian angel !!!!!! At my Volvo V50 I got on front and rear track widening from Eibach, with which I was so pleased so far. Until yesterday…… 500m after we were off the fast track, with slow drive in front right 3 and front left 1 wheel bolt completely broke away. The car was then uncarable and I had to be towed. If this had happened on the fast way, I probably could not have written here any more; at least not today LG Manfred

Hello everyone, I’ve been having a “problem” on my V50 for a few days with which I don’t know anything at all about it. Couldn’t find anything similar here with the keyword search, so I’m trying my luck with a new post. The vehicle: Volvo V50 2.0D built in 2006 with now 278,000 km. The problem: If I give strong gas then the ventilation performance increases until I give back less gas, then the ventilation performance goes back to the Normal value. This has been the case for a few days and is starting to get annoying. I recalibrated the LIN actuators of the ventilation via VIDA a few weeks ago, because I had the feeling that the valve to the circulating air no longer drives clean / reliable. Errors are in the memory (read out by VIDA) but in my opinion have nothing to do with this. For the sake of completeness, this is nevertheless on: 1. ECM-0380 Pre-glare relay defective. I know that of cylinder 3 the glow plug defe I assume that this is a follow-up error. The relay itself works perfectly and has also been exchanged test times. 2. PCM errors to lost communication etc… It is also completely clear, since I have pulled the fuse of the auxiliary heating. Instead of preheating my moose he plays “bat-mobile” and hides in a white dense cloud… There is probably the incandescent pin glued and therefore no ignition is done. Must be approached once we rden (before the winter) but shouldn’t play a role here either? I’m really curious what you can advise me 🙂 Greetings!

Hi, everybody. Unfortunately, I had a little accident at the car parking on the weekend. I came to another parking car despite parking sensors. They reacted strangely only when I was already on the car. Well, no matter… No one did what happened, my bumper only has a few scratches, but a parking sensor is pressed in. That is, it is no longer in the intended bore. I can still reach it, however, due to the “lack of space” logically but If someone has an idea how to get it back in position without driving into the workshop, where the whole bumper is dismantled? I already have an idea, since I don’t know how much space behind the bumper is, I can’t tell if it works. Maybe one of you can. I imagine that I’m going to drive one side on the curb and then put the jack on the back and curl up all the way up. Then enough plate should not be fixed again (from the outside). I can grab under the bumper and push the sensor back into the hole from the inside. Can this work, or is there so little space that I can’t get there with my hand? Unless that works: Does anyone have another idea how to get the sensor – which, in my opinion, still works – back to its original position without having the bumper dismantled? Thank you very much for your help! PS.: The white track I can’t see any more, so I can live with the scratches for the time being.

Hello together, which tyre brand/model (summer tires) do you have on your C70? Which ones can you recommend? Do you currently have the Conti Premium Contact 6 ( 235/45 R17) LG

Since my C70 yes – thanks to the “tolle” Volvo DVD drives – has for a long time no working navigation, I was thinking about replacing the fixed installation on top of the dashboard with a Raspberry Pi solution with Android car … the punched part I think can be completely levered out, there then simply a 3d-printed bracket pure, reasonably wired and finished … Has anyone here ever dealt with this?

Hello, I was last with my Volvo V50 2.0 TDI Built 2008, 100 000 km, a rather unanguishable experience, I wanted to overtake a driving vehicle at about speed 60 and when I stepped on the gas he suddenly lost all power turned very high (short under red area) and it squirted so strongly white/grey out of the exhaust that the entire area behind me was squealed. I drove to the side and pulled off the key, but did not help, I had to choke the engine. The first diagnosis: Particle filter completely closed, which was then reported during error reading. But the change did not help either, so an additional Tubo loader damage was diagnosed, which corresponded to the symptoms also 100%. Also the new Turboboloader did not solve the problem. It still did not start and the attempt to to tow the vehicle also ended with the symptoms described first. In the meantime, this has cost a lot of money. ie (free) workshop, that ev. a piston ring could be broken, but to diagnose that would continue to cause costs and if so, the follow-up costs would be even higher. Has someone ever experienced something like this and is it worth spending more now to finally get diagnosed with an engine damage? Thanks for your help!