Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hey! With my V50, model year 2008, the door handle of the passenger door (outside) sporadically hooks. Sometimes it even hangs out. When “catching back” it bangs more louder than the other handles. Compared to the other three door handles, it also goes from the beginning rather rough overall. I have carefully lubricated the mechanism from the outside with corresponding oil. No improvement. Before I bother my dealer again: who has this too – is there a solution? Chris

Moin, Would you like to know how many liters on 100km your moose can enjoy. Please write all relevant things about it like: -Model -Motor -Year of construction/Series -Fahrweise -Ort(Autobahn/Landstraße/Stadt) I drive a v50 year 2004 with the 2.4i engine. Consumed within the village is about 9litres in petrol operation, and about 11-12L in car gas operation. On the highway I consume at speed 100-120 about 7L petrol and 9L gas.

Hey guys, I came across a Volvo looking for a car and wanted to ask you if the car is good:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/176929263.html?… I drive over 20tkm a year and drive mainly 400km at a time. and what about the maintenance? Rather expensive or acceptable?

Hello, I need your advice. I am currently driving an S40 BJ 1999 with which I am very satisfied. Before I put too much into it, however, I would like to buy a new / used one. I have taken the V50 into my eye and I am already in love a bit 😉 Can someone tell me if the oil level affected by the recall action, where the engine suddenly turns up….in an article I read, that concerns only the 2.4 diesel?! LG Sylvia

Hello, I need the help of the experts. After I noticed that the Xenon light throws only a few meters in front of the vehicle light I commissioned a well-known friend to check the headlights. We noticed that neither an adjustment of the light throws nor a post-regulation occurs when we load both fenders with our body weight. In the on-board computer no error message is timed. So the Xenon light up But there is no adjustment. I should mention that a lowering set was installed about 2 months ago. Reading the ECU via the Bosch Tester was not possible Does anyone have any idea what’s going on ?? Thank you for your help …

Hello, I drive a V50 2.0D with standard DPF, which has to be changed at 120,000 km. a) Has someone already gained experience ? b) The cost for the ET DPF is approx. 700 € at Volvo. On the free accessory market there is no this part. Since for example Ford TDCI 136PS with DPF is identical to V50 2.0D, I checked with Ford that the DPF has to be changed at 120,000 km. Costs for the ET DPF approx. 380 €!!! Can someone tell me now if I – as I would like it – have to change the DPF at 120,000 km. Costs for the ET DPF approx. 380 €!!! hme – the Ford DPF can be installed in the Volvo. Preislich quite important. Greeting Fassberger

Hello municipality, I have found nothing suitable in the SuFu, So just a new attempt: I want to equip my C70 II with new shoes and I’m torn back and forth between Conti Premium Contact 6 and the Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 5. M. E. is the Goodyear a little quieter than the Conti. Has someone from the community made experiences with the Goodyear? I don’t care about the price. The Pirelli doesn’t go at all, especially since the one with the load capacity 91 m. E. is overwhelmed. Always driven this tire. I am grateful for every info, Greetings Klaus

Hello. I changed the Dpf with cables and differential pressure sensor incl lines before approx. 5000 km. Now this error message always comes. ECM-2A00 pressure sensor Particle filter signal too low ECM 2A20 particle filter Error signal – is active before exhaust gas return control ECM 4477 flow too low and ECM 6720 flow too high. From time to time, it enters the emergency run with the message Stability control maintenance. After restart it works again. How can I find out? Did the additive itself replenished a year ago. The AGR has just been reworked. Have a Volvo V50 1.6 80 kw bj 2009 with 198000 km To answer I would be very grateful. Thank you.

Hello, bin Laie, own a Volvo S 40 built in 2008 with the following data: Volvo S40 (from 2004) Body shape 4-door model year 2008 Factory code 2 chassis No. 401494 Engine type B4184S11 Gear type MTX75 overhaul at ATU because air conditioning did not work. These have provided the following information: “Air conditioning system sucked off: 10 grams, air conditioning completes, compressor runs on-climate maintenance, leak search additive, air conditioning oil, maintenance interrupted, vacuum test did not pass, air conditioning drained, L The air conditioning M. Nitrogen/Formga lacks: Sniffler plugs on the capacitor and in the interior”. Now both ATU and Volvo have told me that the whole dashboard has to be lowered so that you can get to the evaporator, which may be leaking or other components in the interior. Only when the entire dashboard is down, you can check this. Cost point 3000€ – 4000€ My questions: 1. Must the dashboard get out completely or can you get through a tric k for example by dismantling the center console there. Please a complete instructions, if possible with photos give me in the hand. I am Laie 2. Should nevertheless the whole dashboard out and I can not, it would make sense to change the capacitor and then to have a new leak-proofing carried out. Before I do this, the air conditioning must be cleaned. To what extent would the leaking gas in the interior health damage, climate R134 A. That it is unwieldy The first workshop had told me something completely different, that the air compressor is defective, although electricity is coming, it does not run. Should I have the air compressor replaced immediately and for the time being only the capacitor?. Is then a spout of the air conditioner necessary? I thank you for your information already in advance.

So, after several days without a car, since it was in the workshop, I took it in reception on Friday, and I found that he 1. Still loses water, and meanwhile he is touring from 4000 totally rum. So no matter in which gear I am, from 4000 revolutions he bucks briefly, then takes no more really gas, and then the mkl the bling comes. After restart of the engine it is gone again, and I can drive again normally, until just again on the 4000 and then comes the wrong he’s back…. The car sucks slowly. Cem has already begun to spin, but runs again, mature in front driving off, coupling rod defective, cool water hose defective, possibly even more, more curved warundicht as the bolt had said goodbye. Now comes the shit, the car has been in the 2 to 3 months to whom I have made it only trouble… And then you think, whether, you buy from the dealer more and get a proper used car guarantee, ha until now I should actually have everything myself Since the great ggg rejects everything, good, partly understandable, because there is a lot of covert, but it must have an end….