Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello together, my C70 II has become 10 years old in January/an additional inspection is pending. ATU says that now the timing belt has to be changed (he has now run to the 97,000 km). a) must/should the timing belt be changed after 10 years or 100,000 respectively? b) when must the water pump be changed? Does it have to be changed in any case if you change the timing belt? I also ask myself the following: I have had the oil changed/last with each inspection so far i Our own delivered (Castrol Edge Professional A5 Titanium 0W-30). Does this have to be changed every year if you only drive 10,000 km, or can you drive it 2 Jhre / ~20.000 km? Thank you for your answers.

Servus, yesterday I finally got a call after felt about a billion years and twenty-fifths of kilometers, because I bought the car through a dealer, and some criticisms, now the majority is taken over, but unfortunately not everything… So the car really whistles for about 5000 km out of the cracker, one accelerates or starts the car mainly cold start, really it is very tasty for exhaust gases, you get to take a sip of gasoline. It is also not fun anymore To drive through the city or with open windows, and now that it gets hot, this one gets even hotter since he already in advance warm exhaust fumes out skin. Thermally seen the t5 is somewhat misconstructed turbo hide down the back…. Enough scolded. So I saw yesterday that they take steel nuts, you don’t actually take copper nuts or is the boom latte doesn’t matter? Before any comeis come because of warm cold drive, that’s what I do. o don’t get so hot, because it is a softi, which makes just 0.6 bar. As additional heat there would be still the possibility that the kat is too and there is backlog, but then he would have to throw a mistake? V50 t5 5 zyl Benziner bj 2004 Km stood 231tkm

Hello, sooner or later it catches every 2.0D: the AGR problem. My V50 started bad after 6 years and more than 110000 km last, during full acceleration fluctuating engine power and overall a noticeable power loss. So I closed the AGR with a sheet metal: the engine ran like new, unfortunately (as expected) the engine control light went on after a few kilometers… In the Ford Mondeo and Focus the same engine is installed, there you fight in the forum with the same There are problems: you can find a construction instruction for a suitable sheet with a 10mm bore, so that just enough exhaust gases can flow through, which the indicator lamp does not light up. However, this sheet is not quite easy to produce due to the oval shape with several radii – by chance I found at Mercedes a metal disc with 10mm diameter of the shock absorber of the old C-Class, which seems to have been exactly made for this problem: Part number A202 326 00 76 for 1,38 Euro. t the two 10 screws on the AGR (connection tube between AGR and suction bridge) pushes the metal disc between AGR and pipe and screws the two screws again. Done! Work effort: 1 minute! The disc sits slightly out of the middle, perfectionists can grind something off the edge, so that the ring fits exactly between the screws, but I did not make it. From the driving feeling there is no difference to the completely closed AGR valve to feel, however, the Mo door control light not on! Greeting NW

Hello volvo friends, In the picture is the first lead from the left leaks. There he loses diesel by drop when the engine is running. This leads to the fact that it smells like it in the interior. Otherwise I am very happy with the car and would continue to invest time and money. The car has just 365,000 km and runs simply?? What could that be exactly? The injectors are further behind so on the other side where it is dense. With the 17er key I get bad. Bev or if I build the ansaug bridge apart, I would rather change the parts if there are sealings there. If it is only that firmly put on, my wallet is happy?? To me I am handcrafted and have already some things. If a description is available, always come here with it. You never learn from it. I come from the area Bodensee circle around in bawü for example in Constance. If someone has a vida and for some money I look at my car, I would be happy. Then I would know where m a dpf stands?? and wouldn’t have to buy me one of my own, if you can share it several times?? I thank you in advance for the answers!

Hello Forum With my Volvo V50 2.0D 2006 136Ps the following problem has arisen: If the car is started after longer standing time or if the external temperatures fall below 5 degrees then the car hardly takes on gas during the ride. Climbs can then hardly be overcome since the turbocharger is not switched on. Then changes after a few minutes when the engine has become warm and you can call up the 100kW as usual. From the symtom it is similar to here. r:https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…sistung-bei-kaltem-motor-t3141429.html What was changed? Turbocharger new Charge pressure control valve DPF some vacuum hoses Suction tube flap yesterday was still the AGR. After that there was always a small improvement to feel but the performance problem remains with cold engine. If you want to give full throttle in the cold state (which of course you should not) the car already goes into the emergency running program. I don’t know the exact codes anymore. Motor starts without problems. Low pressure system seems to be tight as well. What else could I try? My workshops incl. friendly have no advice. Thanks

Hello all, my C70 II T5 was telling me last week that it was – 42 degrees 🙂 So in Emsland it wasn’t like that, but so I assume that the sensor for the outside temperature no longer works properly or the contacts lead a life of their own. My question I, is there an instruction how to get the covering of the door ? Od goes the exchange even without disassembly ? Have looked once and the door panel sits bomb-proof, so I have some worry to pull off the. 4 bolts found, but after which they were released, it was still so hard that I had some concern to damage something. Can someone help me how to disassemble or a guide for it would be classy too. Thank you in advance.

I drive a V50 1.6 drive, year 2010, 265,000 km. Particle filter changed at 128,000. Additive at 128,000 refilled Completely empty and additive only at 239,000 refilled, but probably not reset (see below). The (free) workshop said that I should just drive the DPF further as long as I can and not already switch at 240,000, just because it is in the maintenance plan. Now came over the HU without any problems, but AU only barely passed, since DPF probably zieml I full. Counsel of the inspector: sometimes with full gas high-speed over the highway to regenerate the DPF. Could read out with a diagnostic device (Launch CRP S7 with Volvo support) that: – The level of the additive 15/15 is – The tank is full – The tank level measurement is OFF (sprung at the beginning of the measurement between on and off – the additive pump stands OFF – supply voltage is 14,68 V error reading from the depth diagnosis: ECM-2A40 particle filter – Description: signal too high EC M-9530 Gas pedal sensor With the OBD diagnosis two errors are stored: P 193B Gas pedal sensor P2458 The error code P2458 – Diesel particle filter, regeneration time is stored if the diesel particle filter cannot regenerate and the necessary process exceeds a certain duration.Conjections: – The workshop did not reset the additive control unit before 20,000 km – I drive therefore for about 65,000 km without additive. – Therefore the DPF does not regenerate wisely Fr agen: – If additive pump is off, is this the moment value, i.e. it would start when refueling, or does this mean that it is not at all activated, so it never starts? – How do you reset the control unit for the additive if necessary? – Can I initiate the regeneration of the DPF other than by high speed (activate force conduction) ? Procedure from my point of view: – if necessary activate the additive pump by resetting the control unit – Hope for regeneration of the DPF – If there with a request for your answers or assessments. Thank you very much…

Servus people, I have noticed that I have been searching for gear in the area of gearboxes, you can hear well in the stand. With the entered clutch pedal the noise is gone and I let it go it is there, but not always, and I increase the engine speed in the stand then it clacks louder, sounds like a bearing damage of the conrod, but fortunately it is not that when the clutch pedal is pressed it is gone. If it is still the first ZMS from which I am going to go then it is after just under 240tkm fa So now I’m still thinking a little bit, when driving as soon as some load comes up, the car starts to vibrate, but goes away with increasing speed and speed, yesterday also the drive shaft right changed, could have been this one has got away. But nothing, how do I notice if there is a gear damage? that can also come from vibrations or not? And can one without consideration with the 2.5 liter Turbo petroler a one-mass swing wheel it is a V50 from the BJ 2004 with 5 cylinder turbomotor, or is it better to stay on the two-mass swingwheel?

Today I was on the road with my Volvo V50 2.0D when the power was suddenly abruptly gone and the gearbox made a massively gruesome noise. It smoked heavily from the exhaust and I then rolled slowly to the road wheel. I then tried to start the engine again which only succeeded after about 5min. I then carefully drove a few 100m, switched on. But also a lot of me that the clutch made strange noises. Tow the car. What’s going to happen? Gear damage? Auto V50 2.0D, BJ 2009, 190,000 Should I adjust for a total damage? PS: I had the power drop (without gear noise) a 1/2 year ago, after that the diesel filter was changed – until today everything went well.

Hello and Greetings I have been driving a Volvo V50 T5 AWD 2.5T petrol engine for half a year. KM Stand 220’000. Since I purchased the vehicle, fine vibrations that can be read in the seat and in the touring display are plowing me. Previous activities: gear scrubbing, Haldex scrubbing, LMM cleaned, camshaft adjustment valves tested, SW update in motor and automatic machine as well as Haldex. You can feel the vibration in the seat and a slight lowering of the tours are noticeable. But it remains the same. This at constant speed and with almost rolling operation. Then when giving gas (load) it switches down and you can’t feel anything more than 2000 rpm. If it falls under this mark while rolling and I give only fine gas it immediately reappears. Remarks: same behavior Cold or warm, since the transmission felt it seems to have become a little stronger (previously old thicker oil?) I ended up with my Latin and even the Volvo representative stands before a riddle. My fears are the shift slider .. 😉 Can someone give me any tips Thanks and friendly greetings Christian