Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Servus, probably a thread title that you don’t read every day… I’ve had my moose for about 6-7 weeks now – except for a defective generator everything was fine. A few relevant informations about the vehicle: A 2005 S40 2.0D summum, apparently with DPF, 240.000km and auxiliary heating. The problem now is this: I always fill up my car in general. If the tank needle bends slowly towards empty, I see that when the yellow tank lamp lights up I steer towards the petrol station. From the appearance of the yellow lamp I don’t really dare to drive much further (although often still 100km “stretch distance” on the BC stand), because the car starts to jerk and brings less power. (Why always). I associate a jerking with empty tank with too little fuel -> so quickly to the tank. Now when the full tank is then filled up hardly more than 40 liters into the tank – you really fill up at the beginning of the “reserve”, come even 38 liters. At first I thought that the Volvo really only had a 45L tank, which then seemed strange to me. So I looked into the boardbook: “Tank content 2.0D: 53L” Suppose there are still 3-4L reserve in the tank inside – where are the remaining 8 liters of fuel? Do I just not drive out the full reserve? –> Why is the car then jerking (from about the middle red line of the tank indicator?) noticeable? (Only from the specific tank filling level, otherwise the jerking does not occur) I we ate’, you don’t have a magic glass ball – but I would be interested in your ideas and experiences! Small information on the edge: With me it’s called full tanking: the automatic end of the pump + about 0.5 liters.

Hello! I’m new here and actually an absolute car beginner, I say I have no idea. But I fell in love with the C30 some time ago and wish it to be my first car since then. But since I just have a bad overview of all the technical data etc. and have no experience of which model in which year of construction which damage has shown especially often or similar, I would like to turn to you now I am now 19 and my small budget is at a maximum of 4000 Euro. My mother would hate to see me in a car with an extremely much more horsepower than 100 and it should be a diesel. So far I have driven with her Skoda Roomster and would already call me quite experienced. I have now found a used C30 in our vicinity with 160,000km, built in 2007, price 3600. Now I just ask myself whether it would be unreasonable to fetch him, since it is already a few kilometers. Hold the C30 long or are they dan n quite vulnerable? I just don’t want to make the mistake of getting this “exote” because I like it and somehow suits me, if a Corsa would be just more reliable or reasonable. I look forward to your answers! Lisa

Hello dear community, there is really a lot to read because of the V50 2.0d regarding the power loss. Since I still have no solution for my problem, maybe one of you has a tip for me. The following problem: My V50 had less power than normal already when I bought it. This was pushed on one of the two brown turbocharge control valves. As it was obvious, this had several small cracks as if it had bursted. This ha of course I changed, which resulted in a “improvement”. Nevertheless, the car has no full power. It is impossible to overtake in 4 or 5. Even my 1.4 TDI is far faster. I was already at 2 Volvo workshops, both of which have confirmed that the performance is too little. Both have checked the hoses, all of which are firmly on it. I have not changed the other valve at the moment, since it still looks “good” without cracking or similar. If the turbocharger was defective, would there be an error message? And even more, would an improvement be possible with a defective turbocharger by changing the valve at all? What else I forgot: There is no error message in the display or anything else.

Hello, this morning I wanted to go to work, put the key in the ignition hole, turn the key around – but nothing happens and in the onboard computer the error message “key error-try again” appeared then about 5 times tried, but nothing happened and then drove with my second car into the company … When I just came home I tried again felt 500 times – and at once went again! The car ran… then the key again a bzug, it tried again…and all the crap started over…So if you try it a lot of times…but it’s not normal, does anyone know what that could be???

Moin Moin, after a long time which car now comes into the house my wife has got into a V50. It will be one from about 04-06 with the 100-120 tkm. The question would be just which maschine? So at least 140 pesas should it be i.e. 2.4 or yet 2.4i or even T5? The consumption is rather subdued whereby my wife drives a lot of short distance..there makes hardly any sense a turbo (warm cold driving). I have read a few purchase advices, in it is from haufi A colleague once wrote that the first or fourth cylinder has no compression at any time with the 5 cylinders? What about it? How reliable is the automatic? Would be nice if the one or other V50 driver could give me a few tips Thanks

Hello, maybe you know further, so I drive a V50, 2.0 Diesel Momentum built in 2008 with 53000 km. The original alternator broke about 4 weeks ago, there was a ringing and a buzzing and the light flickered and the Lima and became very hot.I drove into the free workshop, there they told me that they no longer regulated and without consumer supplies 70 Ah and about 14.5 volts. It came a new pure out of the accessories, this kept it very hot for 10 days and there were wi the same symtom. Then I gave the old Lima for repair it was overhauled for 150 €, because at Volvo they told me it had to bring in an original Lima again. So I had the repaired Lima reinstalled, to Volvo to measure, there the Lima now delivers up to about 15 volts, but also this ringing and gets very hot. The Volvo man said it had to get a new one from VOLVO, then everything would be ok, but guarantee could not give me. I buy a new Lima from Volvo. All measurement cables are fixed.

Hello together, I have been reading here a little longer with no matter which brand or problem I had but now I have to come up with my own topic I am looking for a small combination for the family that is reliable and economical. The good one should make the trip to Sweden once a year and is otherwise moved probably in the year +- 5000km. To this end the car should have a trailer coupling due to the circumstances( I would like to estimate a retrofit to approx. 800€ completely?) it always comes to electronic problems and that probably also with the possible PDC is not very compatible. As a budget we had thought of up to 800€, which I would not like to excite. I have already read something with the engines and fluctuate again and again between the 1.8 petrol and the small diesel engines. In addition, I wanted to try to get an FL, which becomes difficult with the budget. There are nice petrol with approx. 140000km, BJ 05 without Equipment for good 550€ unfortunately without AHK and equipment. However, the relatively high fuel consumption of the petrol engine bothers me here. The most important thing would be to find the right engine now. The diesels have mostly problems with the DPF and generally an expensive maintenance + control. The petrol engines in turn have a too high fuel consumption. I would be pleased about your experiences and opinions. VG Marcel

Hi guys, for some time now I’ve been seeing a quiet noise on the left front axle. The noise is so quiet that my passengers don’t even notice it, but I can hear it and even feel it at higher speeds by a very easy knock on the steering wheel. When I start driving, when I hit the steering wheel a little bit, so not straight ahead, it’s best to hear, because it makes tack tack tack …… and as soon as the wheels go into the straight show it’s gone. Abe r as I said, it is only during acceleration and with a hit steering wheel. If you drive at a moderate speed about 50 km/h it is not to be heard, but with increasing speed, so at about 80 km/h one hears a dull quiet fast rearward following tuck tuck tuck ……., moreover, a small imbalance on the steering wheel is to be felt. It happens to me when giving gas, so when the drive shaft is loaded, it gets worse. From the tire or the wheel bearing it can not come 3 months ago I renewed the gear-side dust sleeve on this axle side because it was defective. Did the rear drive shaft joint get any damage from this time? I didn’t notice anything when changing the dust cuffs at that time. I’m really wheelless! Does anyone have any idea what that could be from the symptoms? For your answers thank you in advance.

Moin people, I wanted to put together a little guide here to change the interior filter. With all the stories you can read here on the subject, I can only say ridiculous and complete nonsense. I have taken the trouble and stopped the time, result: 16,34min. Complete… Tool: flashlight, 10 long nut, joint, 2 extensions and a 1/4″ ratchet. First the seat to the back and the foot mat out, then the plug from the accelerator pedal from time to time o You don’t need to remove the lining !! Unlock the 3 screws from the accelerator pedal and then use them either only with the nut or, as with me, just the fingers. I really don’t have any small hands and this works quite loosely. Padal out, fold the carpet, release the wing nut (is actually a wing screw) and fold the cover away. Pull out the filter in the bow with the brake pressed and that’s it. New filter in the bow again, cover in the front Stick the groove and fold back. Wing nut back on etc… The whole number is a real joke. Even the oil filter gets worse. Admittedly, the posture is not the most pleasant but the work itself…

Servus, I’m looking for a used S40, preferably as 2.0D. Today one came fresh into the online ads – stood with me around the corner, therefore despite the high mileage (230.00km) visited. Almost full equipment, Navi, leather, PDC front and rear and checkbook maintained at Volvo. Also on the test drive he drove surprisingly “young” – also not caught anything in the interior. If 130,000km were on the speedometer, I would believe it too. Absolutely everything went, except the washing – Nozzles for the xenons. However, when looking under the hood, I noticed quite strong rust on certain components on the engine. Actually, I have experience with used cars (and also some idea), but I prefer to ask. Now my question: Is this rust problematic?