Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Moin. I got a little busy with my V50 2.4i today and fixed and exchanged a few things. Actually I wanted to change the spark plugs as well… There was only one problem that kept me from doing it… So everything worked out without any problems until I really got to the spark plugs (intake bridge etc. disassemble). I wanted to turn the candles out then and realized that this was very difficult. I used a “knarle” with a short extension and 16 candle nut. I started as a o and wanted to turn out the first candle. I already realized that it was only possible with a lot of power. I turned on carefully but at some point I thought I’d rather let it be before I destroy the candle and make the engine unusable for the first time. I couldn’t even turn the candle because it was really hard and I had respect for the candle being “copped”. I left the candles in it now… By the way NGK candles like I can decipher it with difficulty nntte. Now the question… That’s not normal that this is so difficult… What can I do to make it better and do it without much damage? Did anyone ever have the problem with the 5 cylinder? I suspect that the previous exchange of someone with 1000hp arms was made without any sensitivity… Greeting

Hello together, I have a funny phenomenon, which may not have directly to do with the car, or maybe still ? So first of all: My little elk (Saphir Schwarz) parkes directly at the house. In front of the house there are 6 parking spaces next to each other. My car is always the only one that is totally crowded by the birds in this parking lot…… is ! Ok, I just thought, change the parking lot. So I switched with a neighbor and stand now on his Parking. And now you can guess what happens: My car is still full…… of the birds that my neighbors don’t! Now I wonder: Why do the animals like my Volvo ????? Can this possibly be related to the color? It all sounds quite strange, but it annoys me extremely, because the eternal cleaning gets annoying ! To the info: My neighbor, with whom I exchanged, drives a completely new Audi A4 also in black ! Also the other cars (Sm Art and Sharan) are avoided by the birds, only mine not ! Is there perhaps a bird scout here ? I mean, somehow it has to be explained *grumble*. I’m looking forward to the answers …. Greeting

hello, I have a v50 bj.2004 2,0D with 136 hp. now I had the evening message:motor system maintenance required. read out :fuel pressure regulator – short circuit on mass! side effect was that my battery was also emptied! have called at volvo times, the meant 316€ and it would be on the color of my valve tube! if I had had to change the nozzles too. 373€ the st! has ever made such experiences ever before? or any ideas? thank you

Hello, today I dared to fill up the additive tank. I bought the original set from Ebay for 40 €. Unfortunately nobody could describe it here and so I armed myself with my English HAYNES repair instruction under the car and looked at if this becomes a complicated thing. The Volvo set consists of a small canister with the additive, an empty overflow bottle and two hoses. The big thick hose with shut-off ha hn for the additive canister and the thin hose for the overflow tank. A quick coupling is attached to both hoses at the end. With the overflow hose this quick coupling is angled, the filling hose is straight. By this one also recognizes which connection which hose has to be connected. Thus everything was quite simple. The closing plugs are also designed as quick coupling, so press on it and pull off. (Attention at me came from the filling line a small M Then put the two hoses on the respective connections as described above until they snap in audible. Take the filling hose over the rear right wheel upwards. Open the lid and screw the shut-off valve attached to the hose onto the additive canister. Turn the canister on the head and open the tap. You can then see how the additive (a black-brown slightly ally liquid) runs through the hose into the tank. only when it was almost completely empty, some liquid came out of the overflow hose, so for me it was the indication that the container was full. Quick couplings solved, superfluous additive which was still standing in the hose, ran back into the canister and finished. Caps again plugged up and was good. Now still our good TEXA workshop computer connected, which has sc hon recognized from the control unit that the additive tank is full, but in the submenu then went again on additive tank RESET and finished. All in all, the whole action did not take 30 minutes and I would do it again and again as I now know how to do it. Hope I could give one or the other with this valuable tips. Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera with me, otherwise I would have captured one or the other in the picture. Greetings Rüdi Greeting Rüdi

Hello. Bremming disc with my T5 (2009. 198tkm) are about 1500 km old. Hocjwermige disks which have already been changed due to rubbing. No emergency braking or other damage due to wrong use. Sizuation is as follows: with light braking between 80 and 120, especially in the range 100 leads to light rubbing. Stronger braking takes place without rubbing! I step slightly on the brake at 140 at first no restrictions until I come back to 110 or 100. Also under 75/80 k I’m afraid that it will drag me back to the new disc. Warinner free workshop that checked everything. All bearings photos etc. pp. Nothing found. My bolid was additionally yesterday the whole day in a Volvo workshop and was checked through. They also did not find anything that could indicate brake rubbing. Volvo mostly meant: if his car would rub qarten bis wirklich kompoöettes again. Then new lad bearings on at the front side and new brakes… Is there still a lot of expertise here: what would you do? Since topic is annoying and pulling… Pope

Hello, I have been buying my used V50 for about 4 weeks now (with 1 year used car warranty from the dealer) and am so far satisfied. This morning on my way to work the yellow light “error in the exhaust gas cleaning system” went on. I had trouble with my last car (Audi A4) already constantly with the particle filter and am afraid that it is going in the direction again. Has an experience with it? I can only read faults in the workshop tomorrow morning. The 60 km way home should still be reasonable !?

Hello! So I’ve been writhing online for hours now and read all kinds of forums. I’m not going to be really smart about the right tyre pressure. Recently we bought new tyres (Energy Saver), the friendly guy has put all around 2.5 bar on it. That didn’t seem right to me then, should be far less pressure on the tyres according to the manufacturer. Now I’m already trying back and forth (at the moment 2.4 h; 2.6 v), but the support surface of the tire I want to say that the rear tire has a narrower “abrage” than the one in the front. The support surface is, so to speak, smaller. What pressure are you driving like this? Should I go down the back further? I don’t want to be right on the given 2.1, doesn’t it? Info: Everything is there with us, from hardly loaded with one person to more loaded and 2 people. Also from time to time motorway and speed 180. THANK YOU!

Hello her very long and many kilometers there were relatively few problems with our V50…because a glow plug relay or just the defective ignition module at that time, but otherwise everything was ok with our little moose. Now it is probably quite thick… last week the windows on the left side did not go down anymore and the Zetral lock did not want to lock the left side. After I started the car a few hours later, the spook was over for the time being. I went to the workshop and had an appointment for today. The error no longer occurred. Now the error memory was read out and what came, makes me pale. Shown is CAN-H, low-speed network, no signal and CAN-H high-speed network, no signal and communication with door control unit no signal. I have been in a free workshop for a long time and have no problems there, but here said I have to go to Volvo for that, but let me know what the fun costs before. Our car has 245,000 on the speedometer and is from October 2004. Does anyone know what comes to us and is worth it at all? Renewed is a lot of the car and it is really good in the shot… I hope someone can give me some advice… Dear Greetings Claudia

Servas zammen! In the Volvopower.de group on Facebook I introduced my little “remodeling” already a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately (..or not ) he arrived very well with many people. However, my mailbox runs with questions only like this since then, so I now also make a thread here, which everyone can then read themselves, without having to write the same thing to everyone 5000 times. It’s actually only about that, that I have to write for my v50. a set of 19 inch rims and of which posted a picture into the group. Then several people got in touch with me which probably absolutely could not imagine how I got them registered. .. Well, was actually quite simple. The only thing I did was: -The fender inside turned around, or simply cut away and made hot with a hair dryer and pressed flat and dragged the fenders a little bit outward by hand. (wherewith one pulled them a little bit outwards.) I didn’t know what was going on, but let it go before the paint bursts away) The rims have the dimensions 8.5 x ET45 x 19(with a 225/35 tyres) and also fit without track plates or other stuff problemlessly on the car insofar as you have processed the mudguards a little bit. My TÜV customer had absolutely nothing to worry about and after 15min smalltalk again abzi PS: the car is also 30mm lower and it still fits without problems! As far as driving comfort is concerned: Well…I’m used to “lower, harder wider” for a long time and therefore it wasn’t a big change for me from 18 to 19 inches for the first time. You’re not really limited now. You can still use the car 100% as a holiday or family car. You just have to be a little more careful than before. Corners hammering up a curb is no longer, unless you don’t care what the rim looks like. On the whole, you can simply say: The only thing that restricts you is that you have to be extremely careful in the parking garage and in the curbs as you move away, otherwise the beautiful new rim can quickly look ugly. I hope I could help a couple of people with it.

Hello, my DPF was changed before 100,000km; in order to check its health condition I have read out the differential pressure per Vida. This is displayed to me with 0 hPa (motor is running naturally, no change at full gas). Isn’t that a bit funny? Just don’t want to risk my DPF being unnoticed and then e.g. the turbo goes up or no regeneration is carried out. Can I understand the last regeneration in Vida? Thanks V50 MJ2006, 100KW This el