Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello, I had an unpleasant experience with the TÜV this week with my V50. And the examiner said that the mounted tyres (215/45 R18 on original Volvo Atreus rims) would not be approved for this model and he could not enter them extra. A look at the EC certificate of conformity showed that he is right: there are only four sizes (15 to 17 inches) registered. Strangely I bought the car with these rims/tires used by a dealer and At the last TÜV this was also not criticized. I put the winter tyres on it now and therefore got the badge. Nevertheless, I would naturally use the rims again in spring. My question now, do I really need other tyres? Or is there a way I can ride with the existing tyres? Greeting Sebastian

Hello, seems to be a common problem with defective wheel bolts. I want to describe here briefly how to change them cheaply. My wheel pins were also defective on my S40 on the front axle. According to Volvo I should change the whole wheel hub, have called extra several dealers. Individual wheel pins do not get. However, since the wheel hub is the same as with the Ford Focus I asked Ford. And look, they have some (For the Focus until 2005). the same. Exchange is very easy. Brake disc and caliper down, knock out the old bolt, the new one in, done. You only have to file the new wheel pin a little in one place. (add a bilg with on) and the old one, so that you can get it out. If you insert the new bolt you may have to turn the wheel hub a little bit, does not go in everywhere. I had introduced the bolt at approx. “2 o’clock”. The costs were very easy to manage. 1.09€ I paid and approx. . 15 minutes of work. At Volvo the exchange of the hub would have cost about 350€. If you don’t want to file anything from new wheel bolts, you can also have the old hub pressed out in a workshop, then the bolts changed and then the hub pressed in again. Then you have saved after all 230 – 250€ for a new hub. Another tip: Maybe you don’t have to pocket the bolt at all. Bie a bolt from me also didn’t grab the original wheel nut from Volvo, then I have a wheel mute R taken from Ford, they are also similar, both with the movable cone, however, the thread At Ford goes up to the front. With my Volvo nuts that was not so. Don’t know if Volvo has changed it in the meantime. I hope I could help some with this post. Greetings Marc

Hello moose driver, I have been driving a V50 D5, MY07 for almost 1.5 years and am very happy with the car except for a few small things. Recently I have been on the road with my father’s V70 II for a week, and I noticed that the automatic re-air circuit works better there *substantially* than in my V50. If I was standing behind a stinking truck with the V70 II in urban traffic, I didn’t have to do anything and I didn’t have any exhaust gas tank in the interior. I can only dream of this with my V50. I have to turn on the air in the interior by hand in the city traffic practically *every* morning, because I smell his exhaust gases immediately if I only stand behind a diesel passenger car or truck. Although I am not used to this from my predecessor vehicle (a Golf IV Variant), he did not claim to have an air quality sensor. 😉 The function of the air quality sensor in the V70 II convinced me completely. Now I ask m I, Volvo simply installs junk in the small models, or is my air quality sensor scrapped? 😉 How are your experiences? Best regards, derbassmann

Hello, I have recently finally replaced the throttle valve, since then the Dpf regeneration lasts only 10km. But: The first km after cold start stutters the gas acceptance, not as violent as with the regeneration with the old flap, but every time after cold start. If I give a little bit more gas, it is short away. At over 70km/h no tingling, the engine is absolutely never warm (different from the old flap). The speed does not fluctuate. When changing, I noticed that the In addition, the left vacuum hose from 120km/h has slipped down to 100km, where the turbo fails. With a mini cable tie it remains on it, can it be that too much pressure is built up? Is it simply the intake air temperature sensor(31216702) or the suction tube pressure sensor(31216185,8670292)? Or does the whole thing come from a different sensor. Coke EGR flaps (have never been cleaned, but do not travel short distances). Last guess, the air mass meter ?

Servus together. In the V50 forum nobody writes, but the D5 is also known here. V50 d5 model year 2009 Geartronic 139000 km My car is hissing from today to tomorrow. I went on troubleshooting and discovered a crack in the pressure tube. Pressure tube and a suspicious hose replaced. Car is still hissing. I guess the crack in the pressure tube has nothing to do with it, I discovered it because I was looking for the hissing. The rest of the charging pressure range is dense. In the area turbocharger / Kat/ DPF under low load already. (Someone gives some gas with brake and D and I listen) How does a dense DPF make itself noticeable? Especially since I have no error message and in Vida everything is also error-free. A regeneration by Vida was not finished after 35 minutes, which I then canceled. Soot loading but 0 grams. Do you have ideas? Hans

The V50 2.0D V50 2.0D 2006 engine kicks down 160tkm Hello dear Volvo fans, my V50 2.0D V50 2006 with 160tkm has the following problem. If the V50 min 1 day is not moved and I then start the engine, (incl. preliminary glow) then it goes straight to but stutters about 30 seconds and jerks easily, then it makes a quiet “KLACK” and the V50 runs normal. But only when the moto is cold. Now in winter it is even stronger, in summer it hardly notices it when starting. In addition, it has an above average diesel consumption. Come with half a tank filling only 300km in normal driving mode. Does anyone have an idea? Was already a few mechanics and they didn’t know what it might be, the glow candles are okey. When reading the board data there are no mistakes. Would be great if you could help me!

Hello, my V50 D2.0 MJ2008 makes since today after approx. 500m to 1000m the following error message “electric system maintenance urgent”. The message does not come directly after the start, but only from approx. 500m and apparently only when the car comes to the stand. I measured the battery voltage with switched off ignition: 12,5V. Directly after the start the voltage went inside from approx. 2min. slowly up to approx. 13.2V. I then switched off the motor. As the voltage increases with running motor, schl I eat from it, that the Lima of its own accord must be. Then the battery remains in suspicion as a cause, but the car starts up perfectly even at the icy temperatures. Maybe one of you has an idea. Greeting Joachim

Hello forum, I’ve already looked around a lot. I’m looking for a C70II convertible. As I’ve read this here, the 2.4 gasoline is solid. But now I’ve stepped on your contribution to the topic of roof. Does this apply to certain years of construction? Is there anything to consider? I’ve seen a good car from 2008. Is it with -driver service Ellerhopp-. How do you stand with the intermediaries? What experiences have you made with it? Bzw. knows someone? hon about the Hügsges group for small money to issue a condition report. Unfortunately, the car is not around the corner to personal inspection … are already over 3 hours drive, easy distance ….

moinsen, mal rein hypothetically thought, I would have the necessary change and my sweetness would go with me and I could sell my S60 well etc…Which C70 should you take? to choose from these:http://suche.mobile.de/vehicles/en…l?id=225901431 http://suche.mobile.de/vehicles/en…l?id=232182309 I hope to run the left, on the ipad is the stupid with copy and paste. the one is in the customer’s order, the other probably soon with timing belts? what weaknesses would there be to beac hten? Are the automatic transmissions durable or rather vulnerable? what about the hydraulics for the roof? as I said….hypothetical.

I bought the V50 recently. In the test drive, mostly city and a bit clogged highway, it seemed a bit strange to me, but did not worry me. Now in everyday life, on the free track, it is very noticeable. Problem. The car pulls very strongly when starting very short but then falls off strongly and accelerates only hesitantly. It is very lame and consumes a lot of gasoline. Under 12 liters hardly anything. For comparison, the XC70 of my buddy, also with automatic, like hell. The walk to the workshop is still pending. But are these “problems” somehow known? I have the throttle valve pot or the electr. accelerator in suspicion. Greetings