Category: Volvo C30, S40 2, V50, C70 2 Forum

Hello Together, on the basis of my experience with previous cars, I have given our brand new C70 T5 into the hands of an experienced car body to have the factory corrosion protection improved. Even if the c70 is only a third-party vehicle, I would like to hold it for a long time, as we like it. The car body company has a lot of experience in dealing with the various corrosion protection materias and their egg areas, since it mainly deals with the reconstruction and restoration of Ol dtimer employed. The preparations and arrangements were already at a very high level, you can feel immediately, the company knows what you are talking about. The car has not been pushed up to the intended jacks but better places were chosen. Adapters for these are made, so that later every Volvo workshop can lift there without the vehicle being able to take damage. Then followed the first inspection, which resulted in a disillusionment. A In many places, the seam sealing, stone impact protection and wax are missing completely. After removing the underbody and wheel house plastic covers, the Kunsstoffschwenderkleidungen as well, I received another phone call that all seam seals and welding joints must be repaired, Steinschlagschutz ect. applied.. After inspection of the tr It was also clear that only 50% of Volvo’s work was done here. So this is followed by a cavity conservation with Mike-Sander’s grease. All in all, this warning takes about 10 days and costs approx. 1200€. I find well invested money. I get a perfectly sealed vehicle with certificate. Every little repair after that due to corrosion costs a similar amount. I found the statement quite impressive when I did not get a certificate. answer: not only Volvo, but almost every manufacturer now works according to principle, only the first owner should be satisfied, because he buys again from this manufacturer….any other owner doesn’t matter. And that’s consistent. Too bad if you think about what today cars cost. So, who wants to keep his C70 long….improve….is cheaper than later repair. Greetings , Ralf

In May 2014, I bought a Volvo V 50 1.8F Trifuel with 40,000 km on the speedometer for my daughter at my local Volvo dealer. Our family has more than 300,000 km of experience with LPG-driven cars. Captivated evaporators, jamming valves on the gas tank and faulty valve play are part of our experience. During the test drive, the car runs completely inconspicuously in gas operation. A year later during the inspection, there are no abnormalities. Then the problems begin: the idle speed breaks more frequently in the clutch, occasionally the engine even goes off. The daughter is just visiting me, I send her to the nearby Volvo workshop to the master of my trust. During the test drive the vehicle behaves completely inconspicuously, the fault memory is empty. The advice “Drive the car male” does not get well at all. My daughter gets used to the jerking of the vehicle and resembles with her In the middle of December, the car will no longer start, even though the starter is willing to spin. So tow into the local Volvo workshop. The throttle flap will be cleaned, the spark plugs will be replaced and a new Lambda probe will be installed. This costs 692.57€. For a few days the car will run unproblematic. Then the problems are there again, the engine goes out of the clutch, the empty The car does not start any more with the ADAC people and the tow company. The engine goes out of the clutch, the idle speed is unstable and the car doesn’t start at 100 km away. With the ADAC people and the tow company, the car does not start any more with the ADAC people and the tow company. In the workshop, a new throttle flap is now installed, but this does not solve the problem either. According to Volvo Germany, the gas system is shut down. Now the vehicle is running perfectly. The ignition key is handed over against the payment of 332,09 €. So a car is handed over, which is not TÜV capable in this condition. To the question how it should go on, comes only a shoulder shrug. Volvo has at that time Tele In fact, these systems are considered to be unproblematic (even if sometimes an evaporator membrane breaks down). Teleflex is now broke, support for these systems is no longer available at Volvo. The knowledge about these gas systems has become almost completely lost at Volvo. I research on the Internet: the above mentioned problem occurs quite often with the Volvos with original retrofitting. In various forums I find e In my research, however, I do not find a solution. I am constantly concerned about this gas system and finally have an idea: if the gas filter is blocked, then the control unit of the gas system regulates the injection times upwards to compensate for the Lambda value. The “too fat” mixture is handed over to the petrol control unit and ensures that the vehicle in the cold cold weather conditions. Of course, this error in gas operation should be caused by a jerking or shutting down of the gas system at full load – but it should be borne in mind that the word full load does not occur in my daughter’s technical vocabulary. I confront the master of my trust with this idea. He says “sounds quite plausible, but little credible – that’s the first thing you think about. I drive to the daughter who lives 500km away, she temporarily gets my Tw I’ll get this Volvo crutch. Spare parts for the teleflex systems are available from various internet providers. The delivery is a bit waiting for you. Then it’s time: I expand the filter in the gas phase and find out that it is completely clogged. The spare part is installed (yes, I know you shouldn’t screw around on the gas systems yourself). The next day I drive to the workshop of my trust, together with the masters the gas system will be operational again. On the way to the petrol station, the engine exits at the clutch. Everything as usual? After consultation with my workshop, I make a test drive of 60 minutes duration. The idea is that the gas system should adapt to the new situation. And in fact, from stop to stop, the idle speed becomes more stable. The next morning the vehicle starts without complaint and switches to gas operation practically immediately. Now TÜV, exhaust gas inspection and gas system testing are a purely technical matter. For more than 1000 km the 1.8F has been running completely without complaint again. It is fully gas-resistant in gas operation, starts willingly, the idle speed is stable and it immediately switches to petrol operation with an empty gas tank. So now everything is as it should be. Conclusion: Volvo offers no more service for its Trifuel vehicles. Who has a car with the above mentioned problems, should think first of all about the gas filter and replace it. I am very disappointed by the initially involved We I could not imagine such an incompetence. I wrote to the participants and also to Volvo Germany and am very curious about their statement.

Hello all, I recently bought a Volvo V50 built in 2006 with 2.0D. (runtime 245,000 km) It goes after about 20 km without a message into the emergency run. Turns only up to 3000 revolutions and leaves off the turbocharger. The error occurs when it is really warm. If you turn it off and on again it forgets either briefly the error until you want to get back complete power or recognizes the accelerator pedal faulty and stays in the emergency run or stays in the emergency run When reading out complete errors come: ECM 2002 Particle filter faulty signal ECM 0222 Gas pedal position sensor (AP) signal too low The additive tank was only filled up about 10,000 km ago according to the previous owner. I am surprised that it shows me no errors in the display and also not that the DPF is full. Thank you in advance for your help.

Hello, I can only recommend to clean the glass lens from the inside after a few years. In my case, after 7, or 9 years, dust/dry was collected. That doesn’t sound like anything far-fetched or complicated, it’s also not yet. Nevertheless, the few think of doing this and the result can be shown. To do this, you only have to flop 3 T20 screws, and go over with a fuss-free cloth and (harmless) screen cleaner. shown: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQKKxZwm-lg By the way, my 65W pears have left absolutely no damage Unfortunately you are no longer produced by Osram.

Hello My V50 D5, year 2006, 290tkm, does not start. It makes the typical noise, as if the battery is empty. Just clack. So far everything works. Got new battery, 85Ah. Original is an 80Ah inside. With starting aid it is the same. I only noticed that it starts when the cable clips are removed, a spark happens, it starts. If it runs, everything is ok. As it looks, the alternator does not load either. 45 min drive, the battery is also not full. Charger directly on the car, battery full, just clack. If I read a lot here, might help: Stronger battery or starter. What do you think?

Good evening, I’ve been having the problem for a few days that I can’t turn on my car any more Keyless. Locking up and closing with the key is easy, but when you start the car comes “key not found”. What can I do? Greetings

Hello dear friends of the Schwedenstahls, I have had a Volvo c30 with the 2.0D (D4204T 136ps) for quite a long time now, there have never been any problems, but now it drives me crazy. The following problem exists. The car jumps when it is cold ultra bad, and a white cloud from the exhaust, which is more reminiscent of a power plant than of a pkw. As soon as the car is warm it runs perfectly. Cool water consumption does not have it. This problem, however, is only recently, to the fore eschichte: Some time ago I had a classic diesel “Runaway” but I checked directly and strangled the car immediately. Now I like to drive the car, the turbo as well as the injection nozzles renewed, in the same train also directly oil, glowing candles etc… after I removed the complete turboprint side from the oil and put everything together, the car ran like on the first day, just gorgeous. But now 4 weeks later the dog hardly jumps in the morning, only under torture. And he sometimes jerks at constant speed. In addition, I noticed that on the line which goes from the crafstilter to the hd pump small air bubbles could have something to do with it? I am looking forward to your answer, And apologize for the long text. But I always say to myself the more eloquent one describes his problem the better one can get answers

Hello together ! I recently opened a thread here because of rubbing brakes. I was now at the tyre dealer and had winter tires made on it. The tyre dealer was surprised about the condition of the tires, because they have driven on the flanks very strongly one-sided (see photos). Do you have such a thing in the strength too ? I really drive “normal”, i.e. I do not fly through the curves etc. which would lead very much to wear. (but without the summer tires, only the winter tires were raised), but because of the rubbing tires. Of course, he could not find out anything about the brakes. I also addressed him to the single-wheeled tires. His lapidary answer: the track is distorted, no guarantee, my problem. But I should also bring the summer tires with me, so that he can see this. Ok, no problem I thought, and am to my tyre dealer around the stored summer tires z When we looked at the tyres at the tyre dealer again, the tyre owner once again said that this tire wear at 10000 km of driving performance is really not normal. But then the best thing: on the left front tire you can see a notch on the tread (inside) ! Only left, on the right tire is nothing to see. So the tire grinds against somewhere …. Ok, I thought, is probably something about my car. As the coincidence however, at the tyre dealer stood still at the door an S40 (same engine, exactly the same summer tires, Conti Premium Contact). Together with the tyre dealer I also looked at this vehicle again. And the result ? Also such heavily worn out summer tires and also front left in the tire a notch! Can you see with your tires also often, whether you also have this ? construction error ? I don’t really like it so trusting that the tire at the front left grinds ! And above all I would like now from the Volvo dealer d I would like to have 2 new tires ! After all, the car definitely did something with the tire ! I post here a few photos of the tires, please see if this is also so with you . Thanks and greeting P.S. : Here picture summer soaps front left with notch

Hello. Today I started to change the particle filter. My V50 from 2008 meanwhile has 166,500 km down. Although I did not have an emergency run yet, but for about a year I noticed oil increase and for a few weeks also a strongly increased diesel consumption. So I thought, cann’t be a witchcraft to change this part. I bought a replica filter from Cats and Pipes from Wales (GB) in the wholesale trade. Price 355 €. Thanks to the instructions of the user ALOK (thanks for this) it was also clear what and how everything had to be unscrewed. I unscrewed the cross beam and sprayed the flange screws on the DPF properly with rust releaser and let it work for about 10 minutes. All four nuts were released relatively easily with a gun. The two hoses were affected by the differential pressure sensor, which was a little fuzzy, since the upper hose was relatively light. The plug of the temperature sensor was a little “hardened” and could not be removed so easily. It was also the plug of the temperature sensor. It could only be unruly and solved. But everything was a small question of patience and within a few minutes it was all done. Then I was able to remove the old DPF relatively easily. Then the temperature sensor was removed and screwed into the new one and tightened. new seals on top and again pure with the new DPF. Nuts and seals lay Then push the hoses from the differential pressure sensor on, which was a little fummy again, plug in the temperature sensor, tighten all the nuts, get ready. Take some pictures, about 45 minutes. Then I filled up the additive, deleted all the errors with the OBD computer, reset the counter and finished. Overall I needed a little more than an hour for it. Then I changed the oil and filter, so that with it again all the engine started and it ran as usual. Also no engine control lights or any other malfunction indicated. Then looked if the filter is close to the flanges. Everything okay. I then checked with the computer again all parameters, also there was everything ok. Now I drove off then. Performance actually like before, so I say you can feel at the performance nothing that a new DPF was installed. I was only important, how behaves the fuel consumption. So on the highway un d run. He moved unreservedly to Tacho 210 km/h and also went during thrust operation to a current consumption of 0.0 liters / 100 km. That was already the first good sign, because in recent times he had always indicated a consumption in thrust operation, partly even 1.8 liters / 100 km. That is over. I then reset the average consumption on the highway. I then drove quite comfortably with 80 in the 6th gear over the country road home. In the place at the traffic light, sometimes on the board computer I know that this value is utopianly low and it will definitely settle again to 6 – 6.5 liters, but the first impression was extremely positive. Also, it was immediately noticeable when driving over the country road that it no longer regenerated, it was no longer possible to feel a jerking at partial load. So also that positive. All in all, it can be said from my point of view after the first impression, waru I have been tormented with this for so long?! Two static regenerations and two extra-planned oil changes due to dilution were not worth it. If the filter now thinks for the price what I promise myself, I am more liberating and annoyed that I have waited so long with it. I am at least curious how the consumption will develop over a longer period of time. Can keep you informed. But have certainly saved a lot of money. a few more photos that document the work steps. Greeting Rüdiger

Servas! As is well known, our “small elk” builds up on the P1X(x) platform. Of course, as a suspension dispenser, the Focus can be mentioned. My tire cap (one that seems to be customer-oriented) called me today and said that it would reach 15″ steel rims with new tires in my desired size, for just under 290 EUR (brand tires). However(!) the ET is not 46 as usual with Volvo (between 43 and 46 is normal with the front drive volvos) but 52.5. ET 52.5 also have my A Faithful rims, original Volvo rims. It is clear that the ET is working with me (I hope so). I could not see anywhere in my documents whether 15″ 6Js would be allowed with me or not. Would be nicer, of course, because the extra charge for ET46 is around 120 EUR! Scar diameter and hole circle are the same with Focus II. As with the Mondeo… Does anyone know about this? That I could pull up, is clear. Only if I can drive the LEGAL??? Greetings and thanks already in advance DDD