Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

  • Meaningful motorization?

    Hello, I know there are already countless purchase advices here, but this is my first post here and unfortunately I did not find much helpful on this topic. Very short to me: I am 22 years young, currently in education, at the end of the year student. Search now a V or S40, because on the one hand I need a new vehicle to get to work (the old one is returned) and on the other hand to transport two medium-sized dogs. I drive routes to 80% city, however häu fig before the traffic lights are already on but still short (<8km) and 19% highway and 1%AB with a total output of approx. 8000km per year. Not much so. I would like to spend for the car so 2-3000€ at a current mileage of max. 175000km. Since here only one petrol "remunerated", would interest me now, which engine variant was most suitable for me? The selection is not so small with the cars... For recommendations and advice I am always grateful. Greetings from Au gsburg P.S.: He doesn't have to be fun. But if he does, it's not bad either. But first and foremost, he has to be practical, "sparable" and reliable.

  • Purchase advice V40 Diesel

    Hi together, my name is Markus Schulze is 33 years old and new here in the forum. I have already used the search but did not really find what I’m looking for… I’m looking for a diesel combi and have taken the V40 from year 2000 with the 116Ps Diesel into the narrower selection. Now I would like to know what the stronger and weaknesses of Sweden are. When is the timing belt changed. Spare parts costs of brakes etc. I made a training as a motor mechanic, but I have since 10 years out of the job, I want to say that I can work like oil changes, brake changes and carry out minor repairs myself. I would be happy about any helpful answer. Grus Markus

  • Failure of the speedometer unit and on-board computer – “Pin Code”

    Hello dear Volvo fan community, when I wanted to start my car yesterday after 4 days of service life I got this already mentioned in some entries “P in code” error message on the middle display where usually the daily kilometer meter stands. The engine started normally. Revometer/Tacho/Tank and Temp. show no movement, but control lights all work perfectly. Yesterday then the yellow angel was there, read out the error memory and check all fuses t -> no result. We went further in the hotline of the ADAC, there was also no similar known error. Today I was with the friendly one and had the error memory read out again -> no result, except that the speedometer probably lost all values like kilometers etc… Play new software on it then also failed… I expanded the speedometer now and wants to send it in. It is a Volvo V40, 2.0 with 100 kW and 197 tkm. If someone still has an idea or a result. n similar problem had and can solve? Would be very grateful for help!! Greetings, Domi

  • Correct amount of oil gasoline (sugar), how many liters must be in now???

    Hello Elkgemeinde, The operating instructions say 4.3 liters, but according to ATU 5.4 liters fit in. And that’s true, because only 5.4 liters reach the maximum level (on the oil measuring rod). Motor B4184S 1.8, 115 Ps, model year 1998. What amount of oil is on your bill? The operating instructions also say that the middle between Max and Min is actually “full”. Which is also quite funny…

  • Headlights fogged inside how to get dry

    For some time now, my left (Xenon) headlight has been popping from the inside. I’ve been freezing out several times, taking out lamps to let him stand open to air. Also this place at the end of Friday to Sunday afternoon, he was open in the hope that if there is a bit of moisture in it, that it will vent. Today, Nachmittag knit everything back together, lights in, lights on… and within a very short time, weigh the same thing. Headlights were fogged. I don’t know how I tr In the beginning I thought, because I had expanded it once and it was in the apartment, then in the early evening built in, that it comes from the fact that it came out of the heat into the cold too fast and smacked. I have already checked all these rubber props, which are all free

  • Chiptuning Pro and Counter? T4

    hello elchfreunde have interest in having my t4 automatic jg. 03 chips. does someone have experience with the tuning? how is it with the durability of the motor? how much does it bring in more power and is it even useful? It is still worth mentioning that I am mainly travelling in Switzerland and I want to have a little more of rotating momennt so no speed orgies need. which provider would be recommended? thank you in advance for your advice gruss

  • Car Hifi PowerCap no longer works

    Hello, I hope someone can help me, or at least give me one possible cause. The facts are this: Today at noon everything was supi, but tonight, after I tried other LS at the end socket, the PowerCap didn’t go on any more. So the volt indicator shows nothing more. Besides, a fieping in the vocals now arrives, which are connected to the end socket. If the level rule turns down at the end socket, until just below the half is the fieping away. It doesn’t come slow, but is either there in full volume or there is absolutely no. I’m desperate. Greetings

  • Yes or no? ;o)

    I think I’m a little in love… What do you think of it? Motor style, bla, bla, blubb…http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=vqqeahzmsovl Greeting Chris

  • Exchange 1.8 for T4

    Hi, the topic of engine replacement in my head is just around, about which a few questions are still open: What distinguishes the T4 models from “normally motorized”? E.g. a larger braking system or other drive shafts? Other cat? Larger exhaust pipes/smoke dampers? Does the T4 control unit Plug & Play fit the rest of the electronics? Other coolers? Does the T4 have an LLK? Are there any problems installing engines from phase 1 in phase 2? Did I forget something that comes up to you spontaneously? Please enlighten me mfg Christian

  • S40 2.0: repair or export?

    Hello Together Today was my S40, 2.0, BJ1996 (EZ 1997), 165’000 KM, at the MFK (TÜV in D). The following defects were found: All in all probably not so bad. However, the following is added (this is independent of the control): All in all, it is a very reliable car, which did not have a single breakdown in the 17 years of operation and no major repair (unfortunately it is relatively loud, but that is the only point of criticism). The question, however, is now: repair or sell? What do you think the repair costs? How bad is the rust? If the car passes the test it can be driven for another 2 years. Does it make it so long or is the rust faster? Thank you for your help!