Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Moin, since now 2 1/2 months I drive the 2.0 100 KW from MY 2003. As long as I have the car, I try to bring the consumption to about the specified values with an 8 before the comma. My route profile consists of 10 KM suburbs / country road with 3 traffic lights the rest of 15 KM is highway. The Fzg. stands in a protected underground garage at about 0 to 2°C when I start. As far as the facts, now to my guess. I have the engine only at operating temperature. lt. display when I drive on the highway. That is from the garage to the AB drive 10 KM or. Driving time between 15 – 20 min. To me this is honestly for a gasoline much too long. Why I also suspect that the consumption is so high because the thermosstat is defective. How fast comes with this weather your V/S40 at temperature? Or do you still have ideas, what it can be with my car, that I quickly thank. Although I drive so defensively, that I almost become busy with the traffic, I do not tell you about the problem.

Servus bin neu hir im Motortalk Hab ein Problem mit meine Volvo V40 1.8 Bj2003 Abundzu jumps after 3 seconds first on no matter warm or cold the engine sometimes goes 3 days good is nothing last 2 weeks is once again well gone and time and again he does not want to start immediately. All 1-2 Wochn lights up the immobilizer light times. At the new start is again off. Have already let the Volvo dealer read out error memory error message: Communication to the control unit lost. The master said it can have the motor control unit or immobilizer control unit a make or have a cable from the motor control unit to the immobilizer control unit interrupting. The last 2 weeks was nox but the last few days he zicks against a bit. As soon as the car runs impeccable Have you ever had such a problem.

Hello, I had to replace my (according to the workshop defective) HU1205, which was originally installed in the V40, because it pulled too much power in the rest state and so regularly emptied the battery. Now I bought and installed a new Kenwood KDC 455UW, whereby the SUbwoofer in the trunk no longer seems to work. Now there are four cables in the car, of which I could already identify 3 – I attach the photo times: the wide green and wide gray are clearly attached to the sockets on the radio (by ISO adapter). The right small in the picture should be the antenna (also connected by adapter). But what is the left one in the picture? That is a “subwoofernated” cable. Could it be related to the subwoofer? The radio also has 2 Cinch outputs for such purposes. Or is the fourth cable something concerning the Navi in the H1205?

Volvo V40, 1.9 D Built 10/2003 Hello dear fellow contenders, I have a serious problem: The car attacks very strongly at cool temperatures and gets really moist inside. Where can water penetrate, where can processes be clogged? Exclusion procedure: – Automatic air conditioning in the summer at Bosch refreshes – Pollen filter new, leaves removed – no water in the trunk (mould dry), even in heavy rain the area around the third brake lamp remains dry – the car is standing in the underground garage at night, but at the evening start from the office I have to constantly wipe inside and, if necessary, to the right, because the windows are completely fogged – after a short drive the air conditioning shows effect and gets somewhat dry Please help me with hints on other posts (have searched the forum several times) or with good advice. . Thank you Patrick

So far, my wife has driven a Mercedes C-Class (W202). The engines and units have never caused problems, but the rust… I’d like to know what this topic looks like with the Volvo V40? I’m also interested in recommendations about the engine. The engines are hard to get with less than 150,000km. The 2.0T seems to be relatively stable, so that a turbocharger does not seem to represent a reason for buying. Is that right? The T4 is probably too temperamental for the front-wheeler. The 2.0 without a turbo is probably very tame? What is the durability of the automatic?

Hello dear V 40 municipality! I have severe problems with an internet provider who sells and sends car parts over the Internet. The provider is: https://www.pkwteile.de/auto parts/volvo-replaced parts. I have ordered spark plugs there, but are not available because the manufacturer allegedly has no more. Then I have ordered spare spark plugs. Are also not available. This is already very strange. Who has such problems there? Greeting Torsten

Dear community, at the moment I’m desperately trying to get the start problems of my V40 1.9 Diesel 115hp into the grip. It actually only starts with the help of Startpilot, but then runs smoothly. Cold or warm doesn’t make any difference. The fault memory showed the camshaft sensor. I changed it, but did not bring any real improvement. Now to the actual question. Why is the plug on the housing of the die filter – compared to the supply lines. After all, it will certainly transmit any information to the control unit. If the sensor or switch in the housing is defective, this could also lead to the start problems.

Hello together! I had for some time a strong grinding noise while braking back right, which I then ran through to a workshop visit. And as I guessed it, the complete change of coverings and discs for front and rear was suggested to me. Cost of a dealer-independent chain (not ATU) total approx. Euro 500,00! Since I have been busy for some time now with the grinding here on this side, I had and have the assumption that at least the grinding is due to a temporarily fixed brake saddle/cob. I also told the “netten” Lord in the assumption, but that was (as to be expected) with a “yes, yes, we check the brake”. Now I have new coverings and discs, which was perhaps also necessary. Alleridngs I do not want to make in short time again because of a temporarily fixed piston the discs and coverings have to change. And since of the “netten” Lord in the workshop is not really to expect help, I turn to you! It is not to be grateful that here again to make the best thing to me as a description of the best time.

Hello, after I have successfully changed the front chaiben with the coverings I now have to get in the back. tuv is on and I don’t know if they let this go. have enough meat se se still, must be over 8.3 mm (or 8,7mm it doesn’t know gard) thick,or? at the top and bottom I have just started from the inrun (is already quite big) the coverings are still top. can I actually only change the panes or do the coverings also have to be with? can I also push the brake pistons back with the old ingots? according to vadis need ma yes because the “special tool”, so push and turn… can you just push the piston back, so with screw force or wapu? can be that the org volvo discs are quite …naja.. net so durable? thank you in advance hairy

Hello dear V40 community! My 2.0 T has a problem! So I have already tried the search function but somehow it is somehow different with everything I have found. So now my Prob. description. – when I start it in the morning, I drive a few meters I have a stand gas between 1100 rpm and 1900 rpm. When it is warm I have the Prob. it goes down on about 800 tours and at some point it slams down on 300 rpm but then immediately rattles up on 800 tours. When driving it looks like this…….sometimes he is totally tired……sometimes he goes off like Schmidt’s cat. The Volvohänder where I was at the Insp. said only ” he would have read out the error memory but, which was empty! What I did? I cleaned the idle valve, thrush valve! Now I slowly run out of ideas…..maybe you still have one?