Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello! Unfortunately I had to find out that my seat heating on the driver’s side no longer works, neither seat nor backrest. I looked at the manual once, the seat heating seems to have only one safety for driver and passenger side, so I excluded the safety. Where could the error lie? Until 2 weeks ago it still ran perfectly. I have a poor measuring device available, but should be enough for approximate measurements if I have to check something. Thank you in advance Greeting Stefan

Hello together. I’ve been having the problem for a few days that my engine doesn’t start badly, especially when it’s cold. I have to hold on to the ignition key for quite a long time so that it fights to start. Then it sounds like a trecker and it seems that at least 1 cylinder doesn’t start. After it’s on, I stop the speed a little under 2000 until all cylinders run. So it takes 5 seconds… So now I’ve read out the error memory with Tourque Pro: -Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected -Multiple Misfire Detected Engine Control then flashes at first and lights up constant after a few seconds until I clear the memory again. So I wasn’t bad with my guess of the wrong ignitions… Now my question… I’d probably get a new ignition coil. Only which one? Have two of these or does someone else have any other solution suggestions?

Hello Elch municipality. Today I have overcome the clutch pedal and the encoder cylinder to expand and check. I ordered in advance the 2 sockets of plastic to have them at hand at the reperature. The only bad thing about the action is the bolt that fixes the pedal. This was plugged in with me from the brake pedal. It can only be pulled out/fumbled if you release the pedal holder to turn it a little bit. Then the bolt goes out. When assembled I put it on the other side. ..On the encoder cylinder only 2 nuts must be removed from the two wires. and of course the bolt must be removed from the pedal. Encoder cylinder disassembled and cleaned. Stottle holder greased on the piston. Sockets on the pedal bolt changed. All mechanical connections greased. Clutch vented. Tool: 11 muzzles,13er,15er,17er, side cutter, brake cleaner. Some fat, about 1/2 litre brake fluid. . Time about 2h. Result : Super soft and troubleless coupling.

Hello Have a 2002 Volvo V40 2L Turbo with 163hp. In the cold state you can hear the hydro-pump cores, but then give up after a short time. Think that these are finished. Where can I find the suitable ones? Skandix offers nothing. Do I need to change the shocks special tool, or do the camshafts have to be out? I’m from the compartment but my active screwdriver time is already something… Thank you very much..

Hello together, then I also hope to turn to the round, maybe someone can help. My elk has been ticking for a few weeks, and the problem seems to be getting bigger. Scenario 1: From moderate speed to slow down to the stand. Engine starts to jerk at < 1500 rpm and goes straight out in the stand. Scenario 2: When driving in the middle speed range suddenly power loss, engine rucksacks, does not take gas and pulls a fairly steam flag from the exhaust behind it. Sometimes the error has disappeared abruptly again (can only be a short "Ruckler), in other cases I have to let the car roll out, engine goes out. The engine leaves itself in both scenarios flagless and quite normal again as if nothing had been done. Engine control light goes on. I have now worried about an OBD2 tester. Error memory:P0107 Absolute or barometric intake air pressure circuit too low voltageP0131 Lambdasonde circuit to low voltage (bank 1 sensor 1)P0172 mixture to fat (bank 1) But I can't imagine the whole thing happened again.

Hello guys, I hope someone can help me here or maybe have a tip to fix the problem on my car. I drive a V40 from 2002, petrol engine, 115 hp with just 126,000 km of mileage. I got the car from my grandfather 2 years ago, because he can no longer drive anymore. TÜV he got 3 months ago, the crossbars had to be replaced. Then the problems started so slowly. The first time it started on the highway, where the car suddenly took no more gas. I then moved on the stand strip over, took the gear out and after a few meters he started and ran again completely normal. That remained then also a few weeks, then in a 30s zone no more gas took on and even went out. But I could turn it on immediately again. In the workshop the fault memory was read out, but it returned to nothing. I was told then also directly that a search in the dark is now probably again. The exchange of the gasoline pump relay brought no success. I also brought the car to Volvo itself as the whole fuel system is not checked out. Of course, there is no problem.

Hello Volvo friends We have bought a Volvo V40 for our daughter. The car was her express wish car, which is very laudable ?. The Volvo had some problems when buying, but they have almost all been eliminated by now. Two urgent things still missing: A new front axle carrier (the old one is rusted) and the repair of the cam shaft adjustment (new parts already purchased, with timing belt set and water pump, but not yet installed). Would the first time I do this work and therefore need a little “start-up time” . However, there is also a luxury problem: When buying there was no radio key for the car. The seller claimed that this car has no radio key at the factory. Meanwhile, I can’t believe it anymore. Was there really V40s from Bj 2001 without a radio key? If the car actually had a radio key, how can I get that in experience? I don’t have a plan like this right now. For this problem I ask for help. Does someone have any helpful information? Andreas (kaninchen2)

Hello to all of you here. So my questions go there that I would like to buy a used Volvo V4 ( limousine or station wagon). Since I am currently studying I can only spend a maximum of 3000€. Now I would like to know from you if the purchase is worth it for a used car of Volvo? So at Autoscout24 I have found some already for the money, only what must be paid attention to before the purchase at Volvo v40? Is this a big problem or not. Or what should I pay attention to before the purchase of a Volvo V40? For example, I am very interested in something like this: http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=ckdqxfgdrxqb Only where can the hidden defects lie there, want to buy a nice car where I just plug in to get from A to B. I can do that nicely as a student. And how does it look like it with insurance with Volvo, since I am still at 70%? Thanks very much for your help already… CrowTau

Hello together, after two Astra F I am looking for a new car. At a local dealer is en V40 with the 1.8l machine and 125hp. Is from 99 and has run bubby 180TKm. Currently he has no TÜV. So what do I have to pay attention to when looking at the car? Does he have typical rust spots like the Astra e.g.? Maintenance-technically the astra as an 8 valve is quite trouble-free. How does it look at the Volvo? Have already read that the parts should be quite expensive. Thanks already for your help Greeting Martin

Hello, I decided to replace the standard radio from Volvo with a double DIN radio. As is often to be read here the guide rails have to be right and left out. That was no problem thanks to the help of a work colleague. Now I put in the 2DIN mounting frame and had to find out that I have a good 1 cm in height. I come exactly measured to 11.5 mm. Oh, how do you get the frame in it now. If I have to think about the frame quite high because you always see the upper edge and it is really unsightly when you look at a 1.1 cm gap always. How did you solve the problem?