Hello dear volvo community I have the following problem with my v40 1,9d 85kw bj2002 in the early years started my brakes to jerk when braking no matter what speed. this became worse and really extreme with an increasingly driven track (all car vibrated and steering wheel beats extremely) in the summer new brakes let in and off to napel with the car. there in the city traffic I already ran a slight jerk again. this was on the return journey (1800km autobahn without strong brakes) again slowly but steadily more-> result: condition as before with old brakes. let now again with the conclusion with old brakes. on Kullanz. then again only city traffic and a bit overland and a total of 3000km autobahn (all again very busy!) and again it started as before and ended again again again again have been new brakes in it (this time front and back; before only before that they have moved each time) and it could have been again with the brand name of the brand.
Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum
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Illumination air-conditioning operating part defective
Hello! 2 incandescent lamps in the climate control unit have burned through. Have the lights expanded. To Volvo. He really wants to have 4 eurons per piece. Now is my question: Is there where else to buy or is only the way to the Volvo dealer? P.s: Does one of them fit? http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=9671;GROUPID=3050;PROVID=2351http://www.avb-elektronik.de/…rlamp-40ma-57x13213444085a-p-4731.html mfg paul
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Volvo newcomer with some questions
Hallöchen, I have now joined the group of V40 owners as well. It is a 97er 1.8 automatic 170Tkm I like the car very much, but I have a few problems or questions about you for many years. 1. I find the brake relatively spongy, but what I have read is normal. Is that true or can you recommend to me reasonable other brakes? 2. Something is loose in the amature board at the front left, which is soldering/klappert like sour with cold engine in the condition that it is not nice any more. When driving ice out. Is as said only when driving stage is in place and the engine is cold, so relatively high standing gas has 3. somehow I have not quite understood the ZV. Open and close all the doors as they should, but I can only open and close the trunk flap with the key. Is there any kind of fix there? Up to now I have only read about non-opening or closing doors. 4. I can also not close my tank lid. No matter how I can close it all, I can open and close it again with the key. I can’t find my little help.
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The elk starts very badly..
Moin, my v40 has had the problem for about 2 weeks that it starts very badly… The starter doesn’t go crazy, he just stops shooting then I try it again then he turns a little longer and stops, usually with the 3 times kicked clutch he then jumps on. If you think I’m stupid – battery is full!
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Change of pears
Hello guys, I’ve also become a moose driver for a few days now. I bought a used V40 T4. Year of construction 1999. Can someone tell me how to change the bulb at the front right at the yellow lamp? And how do I get the radio code out if there is no code card anymore? mfG Haccone
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Cooling water problem
Volvo V40 BJ.2002 200000km Help we have a problem that doesn’t end:Short report From November 2010: pressure in the cooling water tank, heating goes only occasionally, still heating is no longer possible or the engine is not warm, cooling water is not in the container, when you turn it up it comes up with high pressure. Condition worsens, car starts to cook constantly.Thermostat changed February 2011: heating went no more, cooling water is constantly missing, but does not run out, after that repair of the head seal, lid exchange from the cooling water tank. Car drives 2 weeks without problems, afterwards the same thing again: cooling water is not in the container, much pressure, heating is cold, temperature display goes up, car cooks, afterwards the heating goes away if you are lucky. This time however, there are stains under the car. Workshop means now the cooler jumps too late, want to change the feeler now. know how said I didn’t want to laugh again, but according to measurement everything is closed. Please have left 2000 euros in the workshop. Can it be my friend’s built?
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Older Volvo S 40 wanted … a few tips would be nice
Hello, I’m new here and it would be nice if experienced Volvo drivers could give me some tips. I would like to buy an older Volvo S40 for every day 40 km of work journey. Definitely no V40 or any other station wagon. I would like to buy an S 40 year 2003/2004 – so the last ones from this series. Normally would be completely long with the 1.8 year, but I read here that this one has a Renault gearbox and I don’t want that. I don’t find any useful overview page from which the fitting of the respective transmissions etc. shows. I know that car would be very old, but I had a 22 year old Japanese driver for this work journey, who would have driven for a long time if they hadn’t broken it. So … is your opinion after the S 40 of this generation suitable for my purpose? A non-hooking gearbox would also be one of the few prerequisites, as well as not too narrow seats with a bit of side support for the thighs due to belt disc problems would be nice, but utopian. The 2.0T was recommended here elsewhere, since no Renault gearbox and rather volvotypically it looks like the best of your opinion.
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Rust under sill cover: check it out.
Now, have removed the sill panel at the driver’s side today (to expand the fender). And although sometimes nothing could recognize at the edges of this panel, the sill panel at a corner (back) is totally marode. Could pierce with a screwdriver so through. Also the fender itself was totally rusty at the underside, where it is covered by the panel. I think it is a real flaw and we are lucky that the Tüv examiners do not remove the sill panel. Who dares to remove the panel and controls his elk there? Simply put it well in the underfloor protection. I guess it is there with many marode/rusted., perfectly disguised by underbody protection (so a kind of rubber layer) and just this paneling. The panel itself is to blame. Behind the panel is a kind of water film, which only slowly dries out. Keyword: cappilar effect.
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Braided disks / lean ventilation
Finally, it is nice and cold again outside… Unfortunately, the windows in my V40 are fogged very quickly from the inside and the blower seems to be overwhelmed, especially with the windshield. The problem is big enough, if you sit alone in the car, but only to 4. … Then only by hand helps wipe away, with the sponge. Even if the heating is already nice warm and you start to sweat, the windows still pop up quite quickly from the inside. I had the problem with my old V40 also already… In the V70, however, this does not pose a big problem. Even 5. the windows are hardly fogged; and if so, then the window is blown free again in a few seconds. (That’s where Volvo has worked more hard? ) I have installed a new pollen filter and cleaned the filter housing of leaves. I also cleaned the windows with glass cleaner. Without success. I have already read here in the forum that the ventilation channels in the dashboard would solve and thus the air flow is affected. But the topics are already a few years old… Does anyone have a problem?
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Medium silencer replacement?
Hello guys, my mid-muffler needs to be new and I wanted to ask what your experiences with accessory dampers are like. As I see it, there are the things of Bosal, Walker and Vegaz. Which one of them lasts the longest, or has the best quality and is not too loud? Thank you and greetings DOIT