Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Moin I have a V40 1.9D/2004 In April 2014 I put in the rear saddles in exchange (Skandix). Also new discs and coverings. A week ago, I found that the car does not roll well, handle to the rear rims. The right side was hot, so brake not i.o. The cuffs of the two guide bolts were not ok (well) New brake discs and coverings mounted, holder of the brake pads brightly cleaned, pistons went well pure (turning is clear) New guide bolts and cuffs (original Volvo) installed. At installation I noticed that a cuff did not have the same amount of counter pressure as the others. So have tested and seen that a very small solder (as from a needle, you can hardly see) the air and a bit of fat pressed out. Now I told the good man of Volvo that it is warm ev. a (ventilation hole) Hello? Since I am not able to do the full ones, but have to believe that the tires have run out?

Hello, someone has changed the timing belt from you and knows exactly where all the markings are??? On the upper plastic cover there are two small “wets”. If I put the camshaft wheels (inlet & outlet) on the markings, the notches on the wheels exactly fit. So the ratio inlet to outlet fits. But: the crankshaft does not fit then. All pistons stand on a height level. So nix with OT 1. & 4. cylinder. If I place the 1st cylinder on OT, the markings of the camshaft wheels do not fit to the “motor housing”. Up to the crankshaft front and rear I have not yet worked myself before. I still have to degrade the belt disc/swing styler….. Have removed all Z.-kerzen to the sample and checked with the extension of the small ratchet the upper dead point. Greeting to all…. [edit von boisbleu] Please don’t use the threadread title [Snip] B4204T Nr.: 126….

Hello friends! My V 40: BJ 2003, MJ 2004, Motor B4184S2, 1.8 petrol, 90 kw, 122 hp, gearbox AW/50-42. I have to wash the engine of my V 40 in the next few weeks, without high-pressure radiators. I am aware of the fact that no water is allowed in the safety box, otherwise the VOLVO will no longer start. Environmental laws prohibiting me from washing the car on roads or parking place, do not exist here in Slovakia. I want to spray the engine with an engine cleaner, the cold engine, with a brush (to wash the dishes) clean the engine and pour warm water over the engine with a watering can. Large parts will then dry with a flap and the rest will drive on the highway. Then many shrinks will use to protect bare cables and plug contacts with contact spray a spray. Finally I want to spray the clean cold engine with engine paint spray. How do you all stand for engine cleaning?

Hello, I wanted to replace the inlays in my headlight. I’ve heard many times that you don’t have to remove the bumper for this. I can’t get the SW out without removing the bumper. Also a push down the bumper didn’t work. How can you get rid of the bumper to some extent? Don’t get smart from the instructions on the internet. There’s always something of two screws…Don’t snap at me either. Besides, I’m usually so lucky for such things that it cracks once and broke something, or I don’t get it anymore after that, because it’s hooked somewhere… Can you help me (and others) by explaining exactly the (partially) disassembly of the bumper? Many thanks in advance Fabian

Dear forum friends. The engine of our V40 Bj.2000 rotates unscathedly high with the engine temperature indicator falling at the same time. I had described this problem before, but it could not be clarified by 2 sites. Today I wanted to replace the sensor and the thermostat and saw this: see photo. Now my question, before I exchange the two parts, which according to reading should not be broken: If oil does this damage and runs into the spark plugs, can this cause our problems? And what consequential damage can result from it. I am grateful for every tip, let your expert

Since the first gear has to be “appealed” several times, which is particularly annoying for the backman in urban traffic :-), and it sometimes scrolls in the gear from the 1st to the 2nd gear, I think that the gear boxes have their best time behind them. Clutch and taker cylinders are ok anyway. The car, a 2.0, has only 133,000 down and is not a city car. Yesterday I looked (without jacking) briefly on the gear bar: 1 jack in front of the gear box 1 jack in half way of the gear bar Are there any more sockets that could hide under covers in the gear lever area? If yes, go from above or from below? Thank you and greetings

Hello dear S/V40 community! Having been a silent reader for 3 years now and been a happy V40 owner for 2 and a half years (also because of the very informative purchase advice in this forum), I now have a problem myself: I wanted to refill disc wipers and see here: bonnet unlocking defective – i.e. the unlocking in the driver’s footroom does not bring any resistance and therefore the hood does not open. However, after I cannot pull the rope into the passenger compartment, I hope that only the reset mechanism is jammed and the rope is not torn. Found in the forum this sketch: http://www.motor-talk.de/…/Attachment.html?attachmentId=122033 , however lt. Description for BJ 98. Can someone who also owns a Ph2 tell me if something has changed at the construction (through the grill looks quite similar) and above all, I have to move the direction of the lever, which expresses the engine hood up, for BJ 98. Can someone who also possess a Ph2 have something changed at the construction (by the grill looks quite similar) and above, I have to the direction I have to move towards the hood?

Hi people I had just taken my day before yesterday V40 out of the workshop because the petrol filter was replaced due to rusting…more not. So today the warning light for the electronic engine regulation goes on and stays on. In the service book was also something of disturbed fuel system but it otherwise runs very well, except that it now also starts badly (with slightly gas he comes faster. has anyone of you had such a thing before? in the service book is only “Bring me Volvo” Ds, Gruss Olly

Hello dear friends! I have something nice to share with you! Was today at the TÜV and had to go to the EK (AU) and the STK (TK) test. My V 40 got through both test procedures without any complaints. I can continue to drive it until 15.01.2020 and the V 40 will be 15 years old in April 2018. At the AU this was measured: temperature of the engine 96° degrees, rotation number of the engine in status: 697 rpm. CO content in % 0.07 HC content [ppm] 84 with more running engine: 2689 rpm CO content in % 0.25 Lambda probes 1,003 In the technical test, the TÜV only contested the left headlamp because it is supposedly too high. They put down. Now I can no longer adjust the headlights with the engines. This no longer works. The Slovak TÜV claims that the V 40 BJ 2003 has no adjustment motors on the headlights. What I can do now, I don’t know.

Hello dear community! I have the following problem with the automatic transmission: To the Fzg: Built 2004/Motor B4184S2/Motor AW 55-50/51SN/178,000 km It switches very roughly up and sometimes stays in low gears after switching down, so you have to give the car the spores for a short time so that it switches up. In addition, the power interruption does not work in the stand. To separate the power flow at the traffic light from the engine, I have to set it on neutral. Then you notice clearly the interruption. I thought at first that if a transmission oil flush could at least improve the switching behaviour, but since the converter does not seem to work properly anymore, I wonder if I should change the gears immediately. The engine still runs soft and sweats hardly. Oil consumption approx. 1 L / 10,000 km. Only the ventilation and the gearbox are no longer the best. Since I have to sell the car soon, I am putting what I want to plug in. What do you think? Who has experience and can advise me on this decision?