Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello dear V40 municipality, wanted to ask you what you think of the offer of an acquaintance. Volvo V40 1.9 D 85 KW Year of manufacture 04/2003 85000 km X-Sight + Comfort Edition Checkbook maintained (dental belts, brake lines renewed at 81000 km) Accident-free (is credible since I know the person who is the victim well) 8 times matured (as good as new) Garage vehicle however Renter vehicle –> Short distance Condition in my opinion: Tip Top maintained, but some minor paint damage to the metal (about 1 year old) but no rust available yet. Presence 3000 slats Is this a fair offer? Have no experience with Volvo and Diesel. Will inevitably have to retrofit a DPF + pre-cat to get the green plaque.

Hello, would like to know what you are using with your elks, depending on the driving style, route profile and what you are traveling with, performance and what model is V40 or S40. To me: coach: V40 BJ: 00 engine: 1.8L (1,783) 90kw 122PS track profile: Mostly long distance, 2/3 highway + highway rest city consumption: ~7.4L/100km since spark plugs change, before ~7.8L/100km driving style I would say economical, but speedy in acceleration.

Hello V40-community, after it burned about 2 weeks times for a day but is extinguished again, now for 3 days permanently the engine control light of my V40 1.8 from 2001. The car behaves largely inconspicuously, only in the cold run the car jerks back and forth discreetly. If it is warm, it runs perfectly. My question: Can the quite old spark plugs be the trigger for the motor control light? Let it be read out is probably the most meaningful step, or what do you mean?

I drive a V40 1.8 122hp year 2001. For 2 days there is a strange loud noise coming out of my engine room that sounds like a mixture of rubbing and clapping, but you can only hear it very strongly in the interior and there it sounds partly as if the exhaust is leaking, but this is dense and firmly mounted. Usually the noise occurs when I walk away from the gas while driving (sounds Sonor and Dump as if a sports air filter or exhaust were installed) and if I give gas only briefly at 2000 revolutions (but then strong and clapping/beating). In the idle and in the stand there is nothing to be heard, except the noise that the camshaft adjustment is attributed (krr 1sec krrr 1sec krrr). At the friendly side one could not really help me any further, since this noise has never come under him. He typed either on NW adjustment or drive shafts. I am grateful for any help.

Good evening dear Volvo municipality , After many good years my Volvo has the following problem when the engine is warm and I am standing at the traffic light, the engine jerks , while the speed varies between 500 and 700 revolutions . It lasts a few seconds then again well . When accelerating after the amp stop ruckeln at the first 20 meters , then everything ok . When driving on the expressway , this happens occasionally ruckeln . Was in the workshop , diagnostic device – no errors . Workshop has identified the Kat as an evildoer . This is too – thus exhaust jam and jerk . My question : can this be ? Does anyone have experience with this problem ? Would not like to install new Kat and keep the problem ? ? Best regards Miki 13

One of my favorite stations here in the USA is the History Channel. And there’s a series called “Modern Marvels”. There, technical and scientific educations are presented in all sorts of areas. The topic was water resistance. Among other things, this came here:http://www.simonizprofessional.com/…/Simoniz_GlassCoat_1.asp I had immediately noted that. Since I’ve been driving my car, this perpetual recurring procedure bothers me to preserve the car paint. Next day Internet. Finding that the stuff is not so easy to buy. On eBay. Oha, not exactly cheap. And you don’t get much. 60 ml for that kind of $25. Treasures, that’s enough for a car. My car paint to glass, so to say, but the thought was too seductive. So 2 bottles for $40.- orderd. So now have arrived at me. But then also that, see photos. The labels are partly unrecognized. With a bottle, I’ve got that kind of hard time to try it out in the USA. And then I can’s very hard to tell you all about it.

Hello, for a few weeks now my T4 has been jerking from 3000 rpm, are like several detonators and then he suddenly shoots forward. The more gas you give the stronger he jerks. If I only tap the gas then it accelerates well and smooth. The problem rather occurs in higher corridors, say on the highway I have no fun at the moment. Error codes are not stored, the petrol filter I have already replaced. Where else I have read that you can avoid this problem with original spark plugs, I will also try that. I also had to check before the ignition coils and if necessary with shrink hose to improve the insulation. Now to my question, what must I pay attention to with the ignition coils, where do they tear for usual. And where do you place the insulation. I have found nothing about that so far. And maybe someone still has a good idea. Greeting, Niko

Good evening, I’ve been having a little problem since a few weeks, and my LWR doesn’t work anymore, since the plug that is plugged to the level sensor is broken or dissolved, there are only 4-6 cables with a few bullets attached to it. at the Volvo dealer in my place I stood almost 2 hours at the spare part holder, result, he can’t find such a plug. now to my question, does someone have such a plug or knows someone where I get such a plug? in *bay I get only the sensors but not the plugs, all others search via g++gle went empty. I would be very happy about your help and thank you already in advance for my FZG- Volvo V40,1,9dips, ez 05/2001, 362250km- xenon etc.

Moin Moin recently bought me a Volvo V40 1.8 122 hp. I am very satisfied with it in the short and overall. But what worries me now is that my drive shaft probably has a good imbalance. The previous owner has slipped the car into the ditch. Then got new crossbars and various other things new. Before a short time I had the bellows renewed because I lost gear oil. 7-14 days later I fell on it still dripping. So off to the workshop, to the stage with it and looked. Then it was established that the drive shaft is probably a little rough and by this movement probably some oil from the cuff works. My question is. Can this be that the drive shaft probably got a blow through the slide in the ditch and thus a little has spread? Or can something in the gearbox have bent itself? Thanks already for the answers.

But unfortunately they have a power deficit with volume but especially in the sound and that drives some drivers to other radios but then it doesn’t sound good and then everything is converted for a lot of money. Everything just because you can’t connect an amplifier to the radio or better said. Many don’t know that there is a solution on the market for this now. Calls itself High Low Adapter and there are 2 or 4 channels. That converts the sound signal in chinch data so that you can connect an amplifier to the radio. I haven’t tested it yet but I want to connect a HU-605 to a 4 channel mini amplifier, that’s enough for me because it’s about more bass so sound and not that my mucke already 2 minutes before I arrive at home with the neighbors. But there is also something already finished :http://www.ebay.de/…/191590872522?… I have ordered something now and if I have built it up I will report it here. Selfishly I was looking for a 80er/90er to get the radio amplifier to give me a better performance and I’d something to keep up with the radio.