Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello together, I’m just looking for a station wagon and I’m stuck with this one here:http://suche.mobile.de/…/176133034.html?… Reads so far quite well, I thought and I drove there. The car makes a really good impression throughout. As described. TÜV was passed a week ago without defects. TÜV report I have seen. But now I have a mistake behind me and hope that you can save me from the 2nd. What do you think about it? Already many thanks

Hello dear people, I have recently torn off the pot at my 2.0t (just behind the flange to the medium pot) and now I’m looking for a cheap replacement. I have over 200tkm on it and want to drive the cart for 2-3 years, so it doesn’t need any qualitative orgies in this regard. on ebay I found something, which looks really damn cheap:http://www.ebay.at/itm/36107989034?… only the same looks to me as the endpot of the small gasoline, although according to the description for the motor with 118kw is. the engine code is also wrong according to the description, because the one of the t4 is I think. as far as I know loud forum the exhaust systems are indeed at the 2.0t and t4, so that would not be a problem. I only have to worry that the wrong one is assigned and the diameter is smaller than the one of the 2.0t. can help me there? I really have been trying to find them forever… should you screw so cheaply at it?

Hello I’m quite new here and have been driving my old Swede for 6 years now. V40 2.0 Bj 96, benziner. Tüv I had last in mai, and then after a totally senseless handbrake repair I got through without defects. Only because of the not completely loosening handbrake I failed for years and after the new brake saddle etc. it is now still from time to time… Will I then in 2 years at the next Tüv be in need… But my problem is another: So when I had my winter bikes put on in another workshop two weeks ago, the car mechanic told me that my gear cover would have rusted through… It was also around the gear, at the place he showed me some oil, oil puddles or stains but still none found in my parking lot? And I think that the old cover still has to be rusted through yet the Tüv I have seen it and told myself, which rusts not in a few months? Couldn’t it be the same thing to me as the girl?

Hello, I have been in possession of a Volvo V40 Bj. 1998 with an engine mileage of approx. 310tkm. Tuesday morning I was still about 100 KM with the car, partly highway with a maximum speed of max. 120. Tuesday afternoon I start the car as usual and after just under 2 minutes running time in idle I hear a short metallic noise and the engine blocked. The engine can neither be moved over the starter nor over a inserted gear. The car home and engine cladding and timing belt lid removed. The assumption that the timing belt has been torn has not been confirmed. With a large screwdriver it was possible for me to move the camshafts over the belt wheels in both directions by a few millimeters. In a further attempt the car started immediately, under a partial load the engine holds its speed with an enormous noise background, in the stationary gas the engine blocks immediately again and can no longer be rotated. For further analysis I ask myself two questions: – If it would not be possible that a defective water pump causes the engine to block it, however, I will not be able to rule out one of the other teeth.

Hello together, we have a problem with our Volvo, maybe someone knows that. In the 2-4 gears answers hear a certain noise, such a kind of scraping, noise, doesn’t sound really good, even if not really loud. Always leave it at load or rolls, even at very low speed almost unchanged, so whether you have 2500 revolutions on it or 1000 actually doesn’t matter – which I find funny. In the 5 gears nothing, in the first and reverse actually also not. When clutches step away! I then brought it into a workshop to an acquaintance, the tipped on the differential. He then got Volvo gear oil and wanted to exchange it first. Said, done ( On the occasion engine and gear oil ) First we had changed the engine oil, probably I pictured that, but after change the noise heard quite less perceptible. On the next day the gear oil was made worse. The Meschanician said again, it is true a little bit too little in it and one would like to know that it was the first oil, but no hint on späne, neither copper nor silbrie, no matter, no matter what the gear itself.

Moin together, I wanted to listen if there were any problems with the return of the turbo (T4) with regard to tightness here in the round. After a repair, the oil return was leaking to me (or my V40). The whole thing started with a slight smell of burnt oil at the traffic light and finally ended with a kind of octopus function when accelerating on the AB. I had the whole thing repaired (new O-ring and new return tube) and now it starts to smell easily again at the traffic light… According to the mechanic, the tube was under tension in the seat and he easily tried to fix it so that it sits tension-free in the opening. How can it be that even a new part does not fit properly? Because a greeting part like Krummer and Turbo don’t really move?!

Good evening, with my V40 2.0T Special Edition (165 HP) the air mass meter is probably defective. I would have a new one from private in view, however, this is from a diesel, but also phase II. If the seller were not a little further away, I would just try it, but would like to save me the way, if the LMM is not compatible. Has someone already had experience with it and built a brewed LMM from another engine? I am grateful for any answers. MfG -Patrick

Moin Together, today I wanted to change the bulb in the side limit and failed. At the front right this is probably a bit problematic. Had the wheel removed and the lining, but didn’t really reach the lamp through the container for the windscreen washing system. In the instructions on the topic of lamp change, that all pears, which are not in the instructions, require a change in the Volvo workshop. Are these spiders? How do I get the side limit lamp at the front right of my V40 from 1998 removed so that I can change the defective bulb? Maybe there is a hint.

Good evening all together, my elk has the problem since today, that the door pin of the passenger door “falls down” from itself. He comes when unlocking up really high, but then slip down again a bit. The door can then only be opened from the inside … logically … Had then before the interior cladding, but that did not bring me much. The actuator is completely hidden built in… Also with mirror and flashlight can not really be recognized because one’s own hands are in the field of view… Did any of you ever have this problem before? The actuator works yes . Could it be that one spring is missing ? …in the door I could not find one at first… I am grateful for every tip P.S. Bj.’98 (Ph1)

And I’m just listening to this forum almost all the jammers, so I thought it would be nice to put in a couple of remodelings here;-) My ’99s sweetheart was changed from the bumper to the windshield on the last model. 2001 bumper, lip and side border lights, 2004 radiator grill and wash nozzles etc. This whole conversion was more difficult than I thought. So I surfed there in ebay, and hit there by chance;-) on a 2001 bumper skin for 50 euros. So I couldn’t resist it anyway. Sheiiiiii… So I had to wait for the art corners at the base carrier by 1 cm, which was not so easy. Suddenly the part was under the headlights. Passene of course and Vorne anyway. Sheiiiiii… So I had to wait for it!