Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello together, I looked in the forum and unfortunately did not find anyone who had this problem already. The following happened to me today. I had the IPOD radio adapter in the cigarette lighter and after a short time I had to pull it out because my IPOD had crashed. After this action my cigarette lighter suddenly did not work anymore. I looked up all the fuses and none is broken (outside and inside). The cables are also externally intact and the cigarette lighter does not seem to be externally defective. I only found a piece of plastic that comes from the inside of the cigarette lighter, but in my opinion only serves to guide the plug and otherwise has no function. My suspicion is that the lighter is still in the bucket and I need a new one. But before I buy a new one I would like to hear your opinion. Is the ZA broken or is there still a hidden fuse? My car: V40 97er BJ 2.0 16V Thanks in advance Max28

Hello, I have the following problem there is no water coming out of my rear wiper nozzle at all. But you can clearly hear the pump running, when does it sound quite “empty”. Can anyone tell me where the hoses run exactly. Those at my old car were torn down and the broth ran into the car. I would like to prevent this. Greeting Moritz

Hello, I soon wanted to change the camshaft adjuster with magnetic switch (B4184S2). Now I have already selected the following parts: 6900015 camshaft adjustment (24) 36002684 magnetic switch (31) 30731212 seal magnetic switch (32) 9458309 shaft seal ring inlet side (28) 9440651 shaft seal ring outlet side (28) 1397381 seal cover plastic (17) 9454788 seal cover metal (34) To those who have changed this before: Did I forget any parts or would have to change anything else in the same gear? And what would interest me sometimes?… I found the camshaft adjustment or the gear wheel on the internet still from febi, which would make for a saving of 100 € – gü. the original part of Volvo – with me. Can you build this without any concern or should be used back to the original? I unfortunately don’t know who is the first outfitter at Volvo. If febi, then it would be an explosion!

Hello forum, but since a short time and out of the blue I have a rapid power break in warm engine. It feels like a cylinder will fail, which I want to exclude. Short error description: At cold start is the full power and completely normal driving behavior available. This keeps itself without problems, until the engine is warm after 10 to 15 minutes. A short jerking and the engine sounds like a trecker and has no more power. Also the engine switch off and turn on again shows no effect. Only after the engine is properly cooled down is again full power available and no start problems. I exclude spark plugs now – I have just changed them. The ignition coils are it m.M. also not, since I have no ignition triggers but from a certain time permanently the problem described above. Maybe someone knows the error picture or has a tip. I have the feeling a sensor o.ä. is defective. Thanks for every tip! VG Simon Ps: Volvo V40 – Bj.98 – 120tkm – 2.0l Sauger – Automatic

Hello! We had a small “accident”, and that’s when we arrived at the crossed barrier and the oil pan jumped, beside miserable engine oil in the yard, my mechanic is looking for a replica of my oil pan just in vain, I have a 1.9 diesel V40, 102 hp The oil pan including gasket costs 560€ alone :O :O :O :O With installation, oil and everything I probably come to almost 1000€ Now I have to make a pickerl in a month and I’m afraid to pay another few 100€ there, is 2003 BJ. Would you invest so much? KM are 189 000 actually I wanted to sell it now because we are looking for something bigger! Can you help me? Can you find a replica that is not so expensive on the Internet? Apparently there is no such thing, I’m so angry so Lg Lena

Moin, had a Volvo V40, BJ2001, 90KW, drove the day before yesterday normally into the parking gap and from the next day the car did not start. I already had a feeling when turning in gdas that something is wrong. Now neither light, lights, nor can the door be locked. Battery is only one month old. I had hoped that only the mass cable is defective, therefore today with bridge cables connected to motor block, but nothing. Now I don’t know. Can it be due to a fuse?

Heyho, my elch zicks around again.. my little sparbüchse ?? So, now to the question- last year in October came with me the engine control light and then the ADAC came out because of read out. The error message was the lamda probe.. he could also be the exhaust because it is a little ruffled (now a little bit more) so then I had no money at the time.. wanted to have it repaired about 4-5 weeks later at once the engine control light did not jump on (it came only after the car 4-5 min was warm) – now since almost 3 weeks my temperature indicator spins.. am last week 120 km highway with cut 160-170 and it was not warm – 1 day later I drive 5 km and it has operating temperature- at least after 80km on the highway came the engine control light – now it has the property times it does not come before I drove 8 km it came back and then it came after 3 km… can go through this temperature problem the engine control light to make it all.

Hello, I’ve almost got used to the fact that my V40 BJ 2001 (185000km) is plucking the clutch at the start. Now the other day at Frost, there was a sudden break. If the engine is warm, then it’s back again. So far I thought that the clutch lining is due. Now I’ve read that air in the clutch system or defective engine bearings can be the cause. Does anyone have any experience with it? Should I have the lining changed or are there other reasons that are known in the V40? Greetings Axelino

Hey people, the above-mentioned elk BAusch 2003 is the timing/control belt change. Will also have the wapu change, because the installed miracle pump is still from factory (1st hand) and only at 236000 km is still in it, because the friendly one has tested the and did not consider a change necessary. So I found by car picture that the supplier is for the belt Contitech, so I will address/request a belt set from Contitech in the workshop. Now my question about the Wapu. Which can you recommend to me, does someone know the supplier? Have also seen that Conti even offers a wapu to the belt set from house. Does the what? Does it have to be a pump with steel roll-over wheel, or can you trust the plastic things? Thanks in advance.

Hello, for a long time I have had the problem with my Volvo V40 1.8l 115ps Bj. 98, 300000km, that the engine stutters or jerks during acceleration in the lower speed range up to 3000rpm (as one should call it). The problem especially occurs when I push the accelerator a little bit more through. It seems to me as if it is swallowing itself. In the cold state, right after the start, the problem does NOT occur, only after approx. 500m – 1km goes off. The V40 has been converted to gas since 200000km, the problem occurs in gas operation, as well as in petrol operation – no difference. I have already renewed ignition coils, ignition cables, ignition plugs, without change. The oil is clean, the cooling water is also clean, neither great water nor oil consumption. Was at Volvo to read out the fault memory, has cost 35€ and allegedly found no faults. (Allegingly I don’t trust them at all, they can give me a break again. But the problem is not like Krüben?