Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Good day to the round, would like to join my Elchi in the workshop (Volvo specialist workshop). Because of camshaft adjusters exchange. Most of all, including timing belts. (mj03/1.8l petroler) Now I am a little scared after the telephone estimate. ca~500€ for the exchange of the VVT unit was so well known through this forum. For the function test of the solenoid you would like to add 100 euros more! Because according to the statement: If this one has broken, the adjustment unit will also go again soon!? Measured and 4 screws solve with brake cleaner pure blow 100 euros? Then I would like to change the timing belt. The Elchi now has 122000km down. At approx. 92000km, tooth belts and pump has been renewed(3 years ago). Would you also advise me to renew the belt? Or even the pump with it? I ask so, because the workshop would like to change the timing belt further 300€ for the change of the tooth belt!

Hello guys, today the inside mirror fell off by itself. Does anyone know what special glue is used to glue it back on? Thank you very much

Hello Forumler! I have one of the last V40 first registration March 2004. I have now found that all four doors and the tailgate at the lower edges are starting to bloom. Also the right threshold in front of the rear wheelbox has a bubble. This could come from a rockfall. Volvo refuses to accept a cost because I was not at a loss every 12 months. However, in the warranty conditions the maintenance of all 12 months is only recommended, the compliance with the approximate mileage is required. I have kept to that. In the own rusting guarantee no maintenance is required at all. Now to my question to all V40 owners of the registration years 2003/2004! Who has found rust on his vehicle? Please report to me! I believe Volvo has lubricated the vehicles because of the sales prices. How do you see this. How are your experiences with Volvo in terms of rust?

Moin, I’ve been having little problems with my moose lately. He’s just got the 100′ down and “fastened” a bit strange when giving gas. Sounds like a quiet bug engine, that’s what’s really best. Was in the workshop, only that’s so quiet in the interior, that the master didn’t hear that because of slight hearing damage. But for safety, the engine cover has been unscrewed, not the clattered one, and see there: full of oil the thing. Master thought it might be that the vent hose that goes in there is leaking, but that’s something you have to check out more. Does anyone know the problems? That with the oil I’m worried about, I think that something is loose, it’s getting stronger and weaker, partly it’s also gone… Solemn

At Skandix, you can order both Volvo Bremdisks, Zimmermann and Skandix. Anyone experience with this? Is Volvo better (in braking performance and durability) or can you take carpenters because equally good? If Volvo brake discs and blocks last twice longer e.g., Skandix and Zimmermann don’t pay naturally….

Sorry, I know that the question has already been asked a thousand times, but unfortunately the search function is down. That’s why I have to bother you dear people again. =) I have an oil change and now I ask myself: what do you want to go in there? What do you recommend? (engine is 2.0T) Greeting D

This is 24cm long, 17cm wide and 19cm high In the search for a new battery I found none with the values specified on the current battery. Too old? Is it possible that there is no such thing? well, it doesn’t matter. My question: Could I also take one with e.g. a value of 63 Ah and 600A ? or would a 60Ah and 65Ah and 580V go? With the new battery is also the + pole right, but with my present one is left if I stand in front of the vehicle! Wouldn’t you like to turn the battery simply or? Thanks for advice and help! P.S. can you possibly miss a good battery or there are no big differences? See zZ a Banner Power Bull battery with 63Ah and 600A for 78,30€, but with the +Pol on the right?

Hello guys, please for your help. I bought a new PIONEER DEH-P7700MP today. Well, since I connected the thing with an adapter from VOLVO to ISO the Active Subwoofer is no longer running!!! Think that this is because there is no current on the amplifier of the bass box. I saw that on the original power harness are 9 cables, on the ISO connector however only 4. Are these maybe the cables for the current and the ignition on/off of the sub? Does this know? Must possibly special additional cables be pulled into the ISO connector so that the Active Sub juice has? If someone has experience with it please report that the sub wants to run again. Speaking of, the Pioneer Radio I can only warmly recommend, sound that is pulled out of the original boxes is really great!

Hello people, In my V40 neither heating nor air conditioning works, blower runs, switches to circulating air. Would you like to order a control panel (see photo). However, I still have Shzg. and DSC. Can I simply install and connect the switches or is it not possible if the control comes from a car, which was ordered/delivered without these extras? Could something else be defective if there is no warm air anymore? I suspect/hope that it is only the controller itself. Can’t hear that something is being adjusted. At least it was put on cold before it failed the service. Thanks in advance curnik

Help, have problems with my V40 T Bj.98 After a service life of 5 minutes and up, my Volvo only starts with full throttle and very bad. It then runs very fat and smells like fuel. If the engine then goes off and starts again everything is normal again. Various things have already been renewed (motor control relays, intake air sensor, both Lambda probes) but without success. The inspection of the ECU cost 100,- Euro, but otherwise brought no new findings. WHO CAN ME HELFEN.