Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hi, yesterday my car left me in the lurch while driving by suddenly hardly pulling anymore and (especially when starting) spit out neatly black exhausts at the back. I then quickly turned around us to the workshop with it. They called me now and told me that it was the air mass meter that had to be replaced. The repair costs with wages 450-480€ Now I want to ask myself once as an absolute full lay about the price is appropriate. Besides, just while browsing the net I discovered a YouTube clip in which the exchange was shown for a short time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shhutX2Ktzc Although I have no idea of cars and quite respect for it myself to lay hands on somewhere but that really saw extremely easy that can be wikrlich every full idiot ^^ Therefore my question to the experts: is the change really soo easy? (I have a Volvo V40 BJ 00) Since I can save myself a large amount of money….

Hello! I ,wanted to expand on WE the Lima ,da camp noises ! I had to find out that the full post in the workshop has damaged the thread of a bore ! This is the holder ,if you stand in front of the car and look at the Lima ! ! Unfortunately is warranty after 2 years around ! Named , plug nut turns into the void ! Now I did not want to destroy the Lima ,but have it repaired ( Rep. ca. 50€) What possibility there is still to get this screw out ,because place ,is not really there ! Thank you in advance !

Hello everyone! Please don’t pay attention to the spelling errors, I’m Dutch and still practice 🙂 Short question, today our “Wolfgang” was at TÜV and unfortunately what defects. So “Lenkschloss rattlet mit Zündschlüssel ein” is one of the flaws. The workshop told us we can order a new lock at the Volvo and he then installs it. But yes, I didn’t ask where and what exactly and therefore now my question: Where can I order such a lock best? Someone a tip? Do I have to pay attention to something or can I just order an ignition lock? Or does this necessarily have to do with the old key and ignition lock? Volvo V40 (06-1996) I am grateful for any help 🙂

Hello, I changed the thermostat earlier, because the heating remained cold. Now the heating goes again, but also after half an hour driving the cooler will not be warm. Temperature indicator is exactly in the middle, cooling liquid is on max. However, I have the feeling that in this hose the bottom of the cooler is no liquid in it. When I open the fan valve comes only little water. Can it be that due to the outside temperature minus 1 the engine despite new 90 degrees thermostat and indicator in the middle, the large circuit does not open? Motor 1.8 Year 2002 v40 Thanks Björn

Good day, in between, the engine control lamp, service lamp and ESP lights up with me. In addition, when uncoupled, he sometimes gives gas himself, so up to 1500 tours. If you want to read out the error, the device does not indicate anything. Does anyone have an idea? Thank you very much…

Greetings Volvo friends, have here a V40 Phase II 2003bj 1.8l machine (motor code B4184S2) since the crankcase/oil trap would have to be renewed. Unfortunately, despite intersive Internet research, I don’t get any reliable info which parts are exactly needed. Have now about online shop can find some. Just before I order there really, I would like to hear from the professionals among you that it is all correct, and nothing is missing. 1. Hose to the cylinder head Ref. No.:9497534 2. Hose to the engine block Ref. No.:1271653 3. Hose to the engine block Ref. No.:8653339 4. Dichtring crankcase ventilation Ref.No.:9499656 5. Flame protection housing Part A Ref.No.:9135060 6. Oil separator, crankcase ventilation. Ref.No.:31338023 4. Dichtring crankcase ventilation Ref.No.:949656 5. Flame protection housing Part A Ref.No.:9135060 6. Oil separator, crankcase ventilation. Ref.No.: 31338023 7. Dichting.

Explosion drawings S/V40 to download Hi people, I have been asked again and again if I could scan and post the explosion drawings I have. I have made it now and set everything for you to download. just click on this link: http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PI3024A6 and then click on the top right of the three letters that are there. Greet Stephen

Servus elk friends, have been the owner of a used V40 2,0 T, BJ 98, 125 tkm for a few days. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take the car with me immediately because I noticed some defects during the test drive: – damper of the boot flap n.i.O. – windscreen wiper right headlight n.i.O. – oil loss The dealer wants to fix the mentioned defects. In addition, he has offered a 12 month car guarantee. Unfortunately, I am not the born screwdriver and therefore dependent on a workshop. Therefore my question: What experiences have you made with CarGuarantee? After the brochure a value-related cost refund is made i.e. the wage costs are refunded 100%, the material costs are divided according to running performance (in my case I pay 60% of the material costs). Can I now rest assuredly lie back? What should I pay special attention to in the next 12 months? Thank you for your answers.

Hello, now I also have a restless idle run. (9101/820) As a result, this: At the cold start the moose turns at about 1100 rpm. After driving or a few minutes it levels itself under the 1000 rpm (but not often) But very restless, sometimes +/-200 rpm and sometimes until shortly before going out, so that the battery symbol briefly lights up. Sometimes the DSA, sometimes the MKL and then for a long time again nothing. It also consumes quite a lot of gasoline (ca 10,2l combined) and it smells even after the foot tip of hitnen antipunk the problem. (which however is rather rare) What I have done before? LLR cleaned (possibly not correct?), DK was cleaned thoroughly (well, gas kicking or with the foot tip of hitnen antipunk is unfortunately not cleaned up).

Moin from HH, I have been more or less happy owner of a V40 for a few weeks now. Since he starts off badly, I changed the spark plugs and cables and coils and in some kind of fit of stupid idea the KDR bolted to look at which it is. Now it is leaking, i.e., it only drips now, – after it was sprayed out in the high bow before, at the place where it is screwed into the pipe of the supply line to the ESD. I have used another seal meanwhile. (No originals of Volvo, had still one in the appropriate size.) The, which was installed, however, I also saved. Does anyone have an idea like me get it really dense? Ic dare not really drive me at the moment because of the petrol dripping. It is the 1.8 engine with 122hp, Bj 2001, automatic with 1783c. Thanks and VG from the north, Andreas