Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello Elk-Gemeinde! For about 1-2 days I hear and feel while driving in my S40 1.8 的2001 (switch and 156.000km) a crack from the front left. It doesn’t matter if I steer in, it springs in, brake or gas there. It often cracks on damaged roads and I can only feel it in the footroom, whether the feet are on the pedals or on the shelf next to the clutch. It can’t be heard only in the stand when steering in, also not necessarily when driving in. And from about 100km/h it is also gone, but I can also not see it anymore due to the rolling down noise of the tires. I already checked the chassis components yesterday (my father was of the opinion that these had to be changed. But still look in order). I have to say that I have a K.A.W. sports suspension inside since about 8,000km. The chassis components still look good! Maybe the drive shafts(turns) I am a bit of advice, but I already thank you for your answer!

Hi, on my V40 Kombi from Bj.01 the tailgate does not open any more. Had been hooked more often since recently, then it went up at some point, since 2 days nothing happens anymore. How far can the lock be turned? On my can it turn only 90°. I sprayed in W40 once. Should I then spray some more Teflon Spray or similar?

Hello I know that there are several contributions regarding retrofitting of fog lights, but no real solution was found for the following problem: in my V40 year 1998 there were already cables, so I only had to install the NSW. My problem comes when installing the double NSW relay (see appendix) Behind the instrument cluster I find only one plug, and indeed the one from the fog lamp, but where is the second plug from the fog lights from the front??? could not find one even after a long search.. do I have to install the double relay at all? does it only need the fog lock relay, a new switch and a software release? According to the friendly I should simply get a new switch and install the double relay without the need for unlocking.. but as I said. no second plug for the double relay behind the combi instrument.. Help!! lg

Hello, I’ve been dealing with car starter batteries for the last 2 days. My Volvo 103PS 1.9DI needs a new one, the current Mukt sometimes. For all those coming after me:http://geizhals.de/?… The logbook would like only 600A KaltStart (SAE) and 12V The original Volvo number: 30658162 can be translated(= very similar) in EAN: 574012068 (5-12V 74-74Ah 120-bauform+Pole 068=680A) The only manufacturer who claims to be compliant is Bosch/Varta with the S4 008 (€85+ on the net (+Shipping, +7,50 Pfand (which you never see again, unless you pay 10 Euro Porto to return..) ) ) ) ) In the trade 100€+ The banner P7209, which were rated by Warentest + ADAC as good++, has only poor reviews. That this does not last longer than 1 year. Now someone from you has the TP carfit battery in the V40, it’s expensive?

Hello Volvo fans, I’m just a little bit perplexed. Background: In my V40 (BJ 2000) on the left both the speaker in the dashboard and the speaker in the door have said goodbye. I would like to exchange the two now. Sizes are clear (10 and 13) and how to get there. I already got the covers down and the speakers out. But now the following: 1. In the trade I find only speakers with the normal terminals, but in the V40 these are these “click” plugs. But I have little desire to cut off the plugs. Is there a possibility ala adapter? 2. The speakers in the dashboard are also “clicked”. As far as I can judge no normal 10s in there?! What do you do? Would be grateful for a few mental suggestions.

Hello, I had already reported some time ago that the LWR failed. Now I had tried the following: – switchboard removed, opened, board measured, obviously all contacts OK – motor in the lamp pulled out (was worked out), opened, got through what went on, contact spray. – measuring device held to the plug left motor, values plausible (between 2 and 8 v) and at once, while measuring, then the right motor whirled! So: everything assembled, shock rod to the front, rod inserted, everything repeatedly and long tested: works great! 1 week later TÜV appointment, : everything again dead. -> again engines removed, on plugs wobbled, etc. but again failed. Now I am a bit at a loss: switchboard: OK, motors: OK (have now even a third one I had exchanged) Has anyone experienced any idea or similar? Is there still an additional control unit installed (in the extra housing and not in the switch shell? many thanks for all the suggestions of Volvo, Vj T40

H, guys it’s about another Volvo V40 from me 1.8 l.. which also clacks and when I pull the plug off the Magnetic camshaft adjuster the noise is gone…. Sooooo because I made the part new with seal and Nu no improvement … May be it’s the wheel.mfg

Someone recently replaced his roof antenna on the V40? How much does it cost at the ? shareummer?

Hello, I have heard a problem with my V40. And while I was earlier with my sister on a totally catastrophic traffic practice site, if that one was supposed to be at the construction site / crater mingled with the “road” scolding. Well, 1.5 std was all super. And after that, at a turn, it suddenly started to go to jails. As if you would drive 60 in 1 gear. It came but definitely from the steering. With every even so small steering motion it yawed off. I then broke off the whole thing there and drove out to drive to a gas station. There I have temporarily looked whether I could recognize what on the wheel. Then I Googled something and read that you should check them servo fluid times times if there is enough in it. I searched the container, found it? then screwed it on again, wiped the rod and ” dived ” in LUFT It was in it! I know now that the car can not buy and fill up now I have not heard anything else under me.

Hi there, I have a nice Volvo V40 (2.0T 163PS) since August. Unfortunately it already caused me some problems – first the engine went off or the speed suddenly fell off when the engine was warm and I went into idle. After replacing a Lambda probe and 2 charging pressure sensors it went again. (Error search + replacement since October until 15.01) The problem only appeared sporadically. This morning everything was still great, when I then left at noon (-4°C) again. wanted to, told me the tank indicator 55km as well as the needle on the red line. After a ride of about 25km and then hold short (~40 seconds) the speed went down briefly to ~550, again a little up and then the engine went off. After re-starting the problem with the tank indicator was gone, but then again the engine went off. After another 2.5 hours of service life the engine was on again and the problem with the tank indicator was there again. No engine control light on. I drive a lot of cure. zstrecke (5km to work, 5km back) and a few times a week distances of 25km. Does anyone have a guess what that might be? Also to the 1st problem, with the speed fluctuations… Thank you in advance, Greeting, Marlon