Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello, great forum, so first of all to my car 😉 I bought a baby blue V40, Bj 12.99, 1.8 in February and am, except for a few minor repairs, really satisfied. Only one thing irritates me. Normally the engine runs quite calmly. Only sometimes it starts to vibrate very strongly at the traffic light, i.e. in idle mode (sounds almost like a diesel) and also often goes out without any signs (also in idle mode) without the engine light approaching before. I have read about similar problems before, whereby a change of the ignition coil(s) has made a remedy. You have more idea here than I do, so could it be ? Because of spontaneous going out at the traffic light I have not been able to read here. Maybe you can help me ?! Thank you ! Sebastian

Hello! My V 40 hardly pulls noticeably to the right! It can only be felt on the track. But the steering wheel is absolutely quiet. (So no vibrations or so) It is laid deeper, with Eibach springs. (What I undo, at the next wheel change) And on the tires (front axle) are slight washouts in the profile. (inner side) The washouts, I thought, lie on the fall, which should normalize with normal springs again. But to the not exact track I have no idea! W He’s got experiences with it?

Hello you great Volvo drivers, it’s great when you drive a Volvo! Especially when you see a Volvo that is almost the same as mine. It was a diesel. You look and whack immensely. Here in Slovakia there are not so many Volvos. Most are Skoda and VW. Today I was a little tinkering or replaced old parts with new parts. For example, I changed all H4 pears. Thus, there is much more light for me as a driver. In Slovakia, you have to be And I don’t know how long the old ones have been inside. After their appearance for a very long time!!! Then, according to my book from Volvo, I searched for the fuse box. Two should be in the car, one with the steering and the other is in the engine compartment. The search started and found out that there is no one in the car with the steering (according to Volvo there should be one)!!! Funny! Is there no fuse box in the passenger compartment with the Volvo V40? Is the fuse box in the engine compartment, The only one? Nice evening and greeting from Torsten

Hello everyone, I’ve had my Bf 17 driver’s license for 3 months now and I’m already looking for the first car which must be in my possession by the 18th. I’m not someone who kicks his car until it doesn’t run anymore, because I don’t want to spend a lot of money on new clutches, tyres, brakes,…. Now on the subject: I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40 for some time now and I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40. What you’re reading about this is almost positive (Solid Techni k, low consumption, comparatively cheaper maintenance,…). I’m talking about the diesel variant with 116hp. With a used one of this age, a diesel is worth it quite quickly compared to the petrol engines (or?). Now I would like to know if it is suitable for beginners (at least I usually drive a lemon with 109Ps FAP diesel)? 4000€ I have together and I think that you could get something useful for that. I also find the Audi A4 B5 interesting. More expensive to entertain and usually not as nicely equipped as a V40. What do you say? MfG Timo

Hello!! Got a problem with my Volvo V40 2.0t (MJ.2001, 155,000km) For some time now my V40 has been jerking in the lower speed range.Motor lamp glowed sporadically The idling is very uneven (runs like on 3 cylinders) error I was already reading out.Ecm 25 power-offtrimmreglung lean in memory The Lambda probe was replaced at the front. Lambda lamp is out since then but idling is unround and FZG is jerking under 2500 rpm. Ignition plugs are new,Zündspulen are new, petrol pressure regulator is n eu, fuelilter is new,Craft pressure has been checked 2.4bar on the injection strip,Rossel flap is cleaned,empty flow control valve cleaned,air mass meter is new,fuel pump has been sieve cleaned, but Fzg still jerks??? Does anyone still have a tip for me??? Many greetings gajolin1

Hello, I renewed the windows and blocks on the rear axle a few weeks ago. I drove without problems a few weeks ago. I noticed recently that the car on the mountain seems to lack a few hp. The brake on the rear left was very hot and stank burned. I looked at the handbrake rope that was stuck. So I changed the ropes on both sides and made the handbrake adjustment very loose for the time being. Nevertheless, the brakes on the rear were still warmer than that was the case in the past. On that I completely set the brake calipers back (pistons and bolts on both sides absolutely common!!) They are now no longer excessively hot, but still more than it used to be and above all much warmer than the front brakes. How can this be and what can you do about it? The last theory that comes to mind is that the brakes in the rear are very smooth and the front is not, which causes more braking power to be applied at the rear than in the back. Usually, which makes it warmer at the back. So just check the front pistons and bolts of the saddles for consistency?

Hello! My V40 seems to be an infinite story about defects Now that I thought everything was OK, the next thing comes: it cracks while driving – when driving as well as in the stand. If I want to park for example and stand it when hitting the steering wheel: “Knack… Knack…Knack.” (no matter which direction) And even when driving this noise is there. Two weeks ago, both springs were renewed in front, 3 months ago the drive shaft joints included discs and brake pads. Could there be again now???? Power steering??? Any bearings?? Greetings

Hello together, in advance…. the SuFu was used, but didn’t make me any smarter. I also got the phenomenon on my moose that it jerks and rubs when braking. As the first measure the crossbars were exchanged on both sides because they were over. Schwubs, old out and new in. The jerking actually became less. However, it is still clearly present in braking from high speeds. I now type that it is about the brake discs. One of the small countersunk head screws that hold the brake disc in position. I can’t detect any movement in the disc when the wheels are mounted, but very well when the wheel is dismantled. Is that normal? Can it be that the scratching comes from braking? I also have quite strange brake discs on it. They have a “ventilation groove”. Do you have that too or is it such a strange tuning part that no one needs? My previous owner had where Hl a little tuning spleen that I have been able to gradually rebuild so far. I also have the feeling that the tumbling occurs differently. Does anyone know what?

Hello forum, my V40 1.9TD with 270,000 km has become 13 years old this month, and now a ZKD is broken. The car is actually driving very well, no bump, and rust I have not found yet. However, I got a very tempting offer for a new car and will probably want to say Adieu to the moose. From payment was advised by the car dealer as not profitable. Now I ask myself the following question: Should I still invest the 1.5 TEuro in the repair and then sell it or sell it like that? How much would you want to invest in such a car (i.e. what basis should I take to negotiate with potential buyers)? Look forward to your well-founded advice, which is often proven here!

Moin die Herren und Damen, I would like to join their club of Volvo owners, but I am totally confused because I can’t really decide for anyone. I have the choice between one: S40 2.0 with 160 hp Bj 98 new timing belts in it. 137,000 km S40 1.9 T4 with 200 hp Bj 98 did not run a new timing belt. 130,000 run Priced is the S40 2.0 a thousand cheaper. Is the with 160 hp from the performance much weaker than the T4? As the T4 is a hell machine. You already realize that I am totally overwhelmed. Search now for a good one for 2 months and I have only until 19.1 time to find something. Hope you can advise me a little. Mfg Moe